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Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

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Old 09-18-2011, 02:43 PM   #1
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Default sanded through clear coat in two spots

The spots are very small, about the size of a nickel. How do I go about fixing this?

thanks
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sanded through clear coat in two spots-pin-stripe-1.jpg   sanded through clear coat in two spots-pin-stripe-2.jpg  
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:46 PM   #2
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replace the clear... clean it off and just put two coats of clear over it, make sure to feather it, DO NOT tape off the area then clear it.... Ive done that a couple of times. its easy to fix...
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:04 PM   #3
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How much do I feather out the area? Like I said, they are about the size of a nickel.

Also, I wet sanded the entire fender so right now the fender is dull looking. I guess I now need to polish the fender and bring back the shine.

With replacing the clear coat, do I spray the entire fender? or just the area where I went through the clear coat?

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Old 09-18-2011, 04:30 PM   #4
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Do you have a pic with the areas notated? you just want to avoid having a step in the surface from where tape was, as long as you cover the burn, it really doesnt matter since you are wetsanding then buffing again... if you feather/blend your new spot, you wont have to resand the whole fender. you also run the risk of changing the texture of the clear and making it stand out. pics would help so we can see the color and location of the burn...
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:42 PM   #5
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I'll post pictures of where I went through the clear coat tomorrow.

Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:41 PM   #6
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if you burned thru the clear your going to have to rebase and clear the area or panel, you will get a gold appearing ring around where the burn is and this wont cover up. seen this several times as i am the owner of a body shop.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30th t/a View Post
I'll post pictures of where I went through the clear coat tomorrow.

Check out the pictures I attached. This is where the pin stripe used to be. It left this damn inbedded mark in the paint. Ive sanded with 1500, 1000, 800 and finally 600 grit...thats when I realized I went through the clear. How the hell do you get rid of this?
wait, did you start at 1500 grit and go to 600??
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:27 PM   #8
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wait, did you start at 1500 grit and go to 600??
Here's how it went
Started with 1500, got nowhere, went to 1000, got nowhere, went to 800, got nowhere, went to 600....went through clear coat


Its like someone installed the pin stripe on the base coat and then cleared over top of the stripe. So after I removed the stripe what I am seeing is the base coat. Does mean I will have to remove all of the clear coat to get it down to the base coat and then re-clear the entire fender?
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #9
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you used a shitload of paper for just knocking down the clear coat.. lol

LMT... I did this on my own car and you cant tell a bit... I did the top of my wing, and one of my rear fenders, there is no color variation at all, nothing. I have a bright red car so maybe the color itself makes a difference.. I know when I tried to repair a metallic color like silver met, or pewter, the flake would have a different look cause it layed down differently...
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:32 PM   #10
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OP, if you have stripes under the clear, youre most likely better off just spraying the whole piece.. the time and effort it will take to make it look right will far exceed just respraying it... Im not a professional but I have painted lots of small parts for guys on here and this is just my opinion
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Old 09-19-2011, 03:03 PM   #11
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Autobody experts, How do I go about removing the inbedded stripes you see in the two pictures in the first post??
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Old 09-19-2011, 04:25 PM   #12
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When sanding start with the coarser grit first. In your case it would be 600 then go from there. The higher the number the finer the grit is.

If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.

Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.

IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.

Hope this helps some.
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Old 09-19-2011, 04:57 PM   #13
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When sanding start with the coarser grit first. In your case it would be 600 then go from there. The higher the number the finer the grit is.

If the pin stripe is under the clear coat I don't see any other way than repaint the panel/car.

Is it like that on the entire car or just that panel? I've seen people fix a spot on the panel and instead of taking the pin stripping off they just clear the whole thing.

IMO, for whatever that's worth, is to respray the base and then re clear it. As mentioned before there can be a ring or a halo around where you sanded through. If you ended up with 600 grit you would have to sand it smoother to lay the clear on which means you will be taking more base coat off. Base isn't very thick and isn't as tough as clear coat. When you sand base, especially with something like 600 it "tears" through the base instead of just sanding through it.

Hope this helps some.
It might be me, But I think you are confused. Why start with 600 grit when 1500 grit will remove the stripe??? (or atleast I thought it would)

The reason I started with 1500 grit is I thought the inbedded stripe would be removed easily with a little wet sanding and some fine 1500 grit. However, 1500 didnt phase the stripe at all, so thats why I went to 1000 grit...and I saw that wasnt phasing the stripe, then tried 800 and finally 600....

I know for prepping a panel you finish with a fine wet sanding. I use 2000 grit.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:33 PM   #14
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I didn't mean you should necessarily have to start out with 600 I just used that as an example because those were the grits you mentioned. Yes it's always best to use the finest grit you can when sanding something. I understand why you did what you did now.

Sorry if my post was confusing.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:44 PM   #15
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If your having to use 600 to get something off the paint, then your going to have to repaint

As far as im concerned i would have stopped at 1000. After that it gets really risky but i do use 800 from time to time on small areas.

If the stripes are literally under the clear, then your gonna have to get under the clear to get them out, and replace the clear coat. Sorry bro.

Sounds like some shoddy body work or something.

Can you post some more detailed pics of what your trying to remove?
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:58 PM   #16
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scuff entire area around sanded through area. use gray scotchbrite. Then spray your base over the sanded through area. try to kind of lightly overspray around the area{or fade it out} then spray your clear after that flashes, then use burn in solvent around the edges where you sprayed clear further out then you sprayed your base coat. but go easy with the stuff, because too much will cause it to run like a big dog... This is called spotting in. Your local paint shop has all these supplies and will tell you how to use them. Or you can scuff the whole panel, spray your base in the areas you screwed up, and kinda do the fade thing again, no need to spray the entire panel most likely. Then just clear the whole thing
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:47 AM   #17
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scuff entire area around sanded through area. use gray scotchbrite. Then spray your base over the sanded through area. try to kind of lightly overspray around the area{or fade it out} then spray your clear after that flashes, then use burn in solvent around the edges where you sprayed clear further out then you sprayed your base coat. but go easy with the stuff, because too much will cause it to run like a big dog... This is called spotting in. Your local paint shop has all these supplies and will tell you how to use them. Or you can scuff the whole panel, spray your base in the areas you screwed up, and kinda do the fade thing again, no need to spray the entire panel most likely. Then just clear the whole thing
If that works I would like to see it.

No. Seriously. I'm not being an ***. I would like to see before/after. I'm always down for learning something.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:26 PM   #18
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the problem with spotting in is it will peel eventually, its great for cheap dealer work or a quick fix to sell a car but if its yours just do it right the first time
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:19 PM   #19
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the problem with spotting in is it will peel eventually, its great for cheap dealer work or a quick fix to sell a car but if its yours just do it right the first time
you would think that, but the clear is actually fused with the old clear. If it chips off it is more than likely because you have a thin spot in the clear around the area, in which case the suns uv is what breaks the clear down and will then delaminate. It also depends on how cheap your product is...You are right though, this is used for dealer touch ups. I have been doing this since I was very young. I have been to collision repair school and done it professionally. I still do select work. I have done this more times than I can count and never had a problem with a comeback to this date.

As he stated, the best way is of course to re clear the entire panel. If you suck at blending you will make a mess and probably end up doing it anyway lol
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:06 PM   #20
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The fender is getting completely repainted & cleared. Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:06 PM
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