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LS1 Edit, WOT shift Firmness Mods, how?

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Old 02-02-2004, 09:28 PM
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Default LS1 Edit, WOT shift Firmness Mods, how?

What should I be doing to make my trans shift harder only at WOT? I like how it shifts stock when I am running around town, but when I am at WOT I want it to slam the gears like no tomorrow. What should I be tring to change in LS1 Edit? Also, It seams to me that when I am at wot the car nosses down while it is shifting. It does this very bad when I am using the NO2. Could this be the torque reduction? All I am trying to do at this time with LS1 Edit to to tune the car to not give anything up while it is shifting gears, make the gears shift as fast and as hard as possible, and get ride of that damm Torque reduction crap. Now these changes I only want to happen at WOT, or above 85% TP. Any sugestions on what I need to do to make this happen?
Old 02-03-2004, 07:07 PM
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Can someone please help me with this?
Old 02-03-2004, 10:15 PM
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Someone please? I have LS1 edit but am not sure what to do here.
Old 02-03-2004, 11:42 PM
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I just installed 3.73's in my A4 and im still trying to figure out how to change my shift points, how to change firmness at WOT im not sure but in one of the tables it allows for shift pressure change, howcome in your sig your changing back to your 3.32's????
Old 02-04-2004, 04:26 AM
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Scale the Base Pressure vs. Torque tables up. Start at 125% and gauge how it shifts. The table is relative to TPS, so you should notice a small increase at lower TPS settings, but good improvement at or near WOT. You could also try reducing the values in the Upshift Torque Reduction, but that will significantly reduce the life of your trans. I know, I've fried 3 of them. I've actually increased the values in that table to invoke more torque reduction, in an attempt to increase the life of the trans.
Old 02-05-2004, 08:00 PM
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Thanks VT2, I am thinking of attacking this by only changing the everything from 85 to 100% TP. I do like how it shifts around town during normal driving and I really only want to make the trans shift hard during WOT. I did zero out my Upshift Torque Reduction. So I think I will try it like that first and if I still want it to shift a little harder then I will go back in and change the base Pressure vs. Torque Tables. Also, does anyone know what the lowest calue should be for the shift times? I don't like how long it takes to actually make the shift complete. But I am scared to make it any lower then .150 seconds. I would put it to .000 but I am consurned with the clutches from the drums being released during the upshift not releasing in time and causing a negative result. Has anyone changed it to .000? If so what was the outcome? Any problems? If not what would be a good safe minumal time?

99Z28, to answer you question on me going back to the 3.23's. Don't get me wrong, the 3.73's help me out a bunch. Heck just the gear change alone gave me a good .5 second cut on my ET's. But I am not really wanting to be supper fast in the Quarter mile. All I want to run is mid to low 12's. But I also want to try and get the most topend speed as I can for road racing. We clocked my car stock and new at 161 MPH on the hyway. But now I run out of gear before I get there. The road races we have down here have classes that go all the way up to 200 mph. I like to run in the 140 mph class, and with the 3.73 gears I just turn more rpm's then I like to at 140. So If I go back to the 3.23's I can get back in that class I want to run in, not turn too many rpm's and with very little mods to the car I should be able to run 12's with those gears. I just want the car to be well rounded like I am . But there is no dought the 3.73's have worked great in my car in all other aspectes except the sustained top end speed. ****, I still get 21.5 mpg with them and out interstates are 75 mph zones. Not bad for that gear, the a\c, and my lead foot. I think 3.73's are a great chose for these cars. I guess I should have gotten the 6 speed so I could have the gear and the top end. But I shift a standerd like it was an 18 wheeler .
Old 02-06-2004, 12:46 PM
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I believe at WOT you should be seeing full line pressure?
You could check this as PWM duty using ATAP / EFILive
right up to start of and right after end of shift.

However the perception of "firmness" probably has a lot
to do with the adaptation time params. That's in charge
of "feathering" the transition, pressure is how it holds
once it gets near & past the end of the shift.
Old 02-06-2004, 04:59 PM
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Careful when messing with the line pressure. That's how you kill the tranny.

Usually, taking care of the timing reduction between shifts will give people the necessary kick that they desire without killing the tranny.
Old 02-06-2004, 07:14 PM
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why not just install a shift kit and leave the rest alone?




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