Do not allow Behe Performance to tune your car...
09-26-2013, 12:23 PM
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Do not allow Behe Performance to tune your car... It's about time I get around to spreading the word about this. I apologize in advance for the length of this post. The below information is all factual-- no B.S., and no leaving anything out of the situation.
In 2008 or 2009, John Behe of Behe Performance was paid to do a coated headers install, with a dyno pull before the headers install, and a dyno pull after the headers install on my 2005 GTO. At the time, my car was running a Magnacharger 112 and a custom blower cam. The baseline tune was never done (which was the point of installing the headers... to see the exact horsepower increase). I picked the car up and the coating on the headers was dull in most spots, because coating burned since it was not cured correctly per the instructions from Jet-Hot. Upsetting situation, but oh well... what are you going to do??? John had pulled my transmission pan (or maybe just drained the fluid.... or maybe none of the above) and told me that my transmission was starting to slip and that I'd need to bring it back for a re-tune after the transmission was replaced.
I replaced the transmission with a Performabuilt Level 2, brought it back and John re-tuned the car. No transmission problems, and car was running well at the track, except for some hesitation at times when rolling into the throttle. Before I could bother bring the car back to John to have him look at that, I decided to remove the Magnacharger and have twin 62mm turbos fabricated by a shop local to me. In September of 2009 I brought the car back to John for a tune for the new twin turbo setup. I had just spent $900+ on building a virtually fail-proof methanol injection system, and right then and there John told me he refused to tune it for the meth injection, and convinced me I wouldn't need it. Pretty upsetting, but I had no choice so I dropped it off and left it with him for several days. Came and picked the car back up and he talked about how much of a beast the car was now and how great the tune was... but mentioned to me that my hot-side pipes of the turbo setup was causing too much heat in the engine bay. John's words were that he did a very safe tune for now until I can get the heat issues taken care of and bring it back so he can "wick it up a bit".
I roll off into the sunset in my freshly-tuned twin turbo GTO, thinking life is grand. Only to find out 30 minutes down the road that the transmission no longer up-shifts into the next gear at full throttle, regardless of what gear it is currently in. Too late to turn around now, so I bring the car back to John within a few weeks (after not driving the car hardly) and let him toy with the transmission parameters. He'd adjust a few things, I'd take the car out, still wouldn't up-shift at 100% throttle, pull back into the shop, and repeat. After 4 attempts, he gave up and told me that my new built transmission that was working just fine with the 508 RWHP setup I just had is not holding to the 639 RWHP @ 8 PSI that the car just made. I felt sorry for wasting his time, and handed him what I recall being $150 (It was at least $100... pretty sure $150) for 1.5 hours that he spent with the car after-hours that night.
After doing some research, the transmission didn't seem to be the problem. I didn't know where else the problem could be since John eliminated his tune as the problem. Less than 1k miles after the tune, the engine blows on a 3rd gear highway pull. I tore the engine down and all 4 pistons on bank 1 had detonated. The top 2 ring lands on the pistons were broken due to detonation. Not knowing what caused the pistons to blow, and I decided to put the engine back together with stock pistons (rather than spending $5k on a fully-forged short-block just to blow it too). I called John and asked him if he had any idea what could cause that, and he advised me the times that my transmission wasn't up-shifting at the engine hit the rev limiter is what lead to this. When I got the car running again, I had someone else take a look at the transmission tune, and we found that the RPM Limit (rev limit) and the up-shift RPM for each gear was all set to 6,200 RPM. No wonder why it wasn't up-shifting! We lowered the up-shift RPM and the car was now shifting like it should. Problems are over, right??? Nope.....
I take the car to the drag strip on a hot day and it wouldn't muster anything faster than 11.2. The car was previously doing 10.9's in the same kind of weather, at the same track, CONSISTENTLY, with 130 less RWHP on the last setup. How can it be????? A few days later, still less than 1k miles since the car has been back up and running again, the engine blows AGAIN on another highway pull. What the hell?????????
I call John and he basically says it's not the tune that lead to this. I let him know of his mistake with the transmission tune that I fixed, after he spent 1.5 hours looking at and couldn't figure it out. He still stood by his work. I had to give up on the car for a little while. I didn't have time to rebuild the engine again with my current job, so the car just sat.
Determined to figure out the problem a year after the engine blew a second time, I posted my tune on LS1Tech.com. We found that John set the tune for 22 degrees advance timing on 93 octane gas, on a twin turbo LS2 with stock internals. He put this much timing advance on a pump gas tune, after refusing to tune for the methanol injection I had just installed when I brought him the car. Here is what some of the people with tuning experience (most of them are advanced tuners, and have great reputations as LSx tuners) from LS1Tech had to say about my tune:
22 degrees of timing at 8 psi with a stock LS2 long block on 93 octane sounds way high. I would expect it to be more around the mid teens area if that up top but this is all just speculation from my chair posting on the internet. Hell down in the lower RPM range timing would have to be lower still.
---------------------------------------------------------
MAF table is bone stock. That's scary.
Too much timing for a boosted LS2.
PE is too lean until way up top, and is still a little lean up there.
Knock sensor sensitivity is left stock, but the max knock retard has been cut in half, so if it DOES knock, it will only pull 4 degrees,instead of up to 8 degrees.
Knock retard recovery is too high.
---------------------------------------------------------
The timing blew the motor. It won't show up much on a dyno but it's too high for long pulls like going down the highway.
---------------------------------------------------------
Timing for sure.... Needs race gas and Methanol to get by with that much timing and even then would be pushing it.
---------------------------------------------------------
Every vehicle is different, 17° past peak tq (top rpm) is the most ive pushed a stock on pump fuel at 8# (centri setups), would definitely not be at 17° through the most cyl pressure range, maybe 14 tops.
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Your making 600+ rwhp, on 93 octane pump gas with twins, on a STOCK ls2 shortblock (NON forged pistons obviously) and at wot your tuner has 22 degrees of timing? while you have No meth? no race fuel mix? not even a water 2 air incooler??
Not good at all my friend. I'm pretty sure its a combo of the timing and the amount of heat your building up during those long highway pulls. without some type of cooling of the charge (other then ambient air) that's just, well , "a blown up engine" waiting to happen, again.
---------------------------------------------------------
After looking at the tune I can say that [22 degrees timing advance] it is the reason why you have went through two motors. The VE table has portions that are stock and being a boosted car should disable below an RPM that boost could actually be built because the stock VE tables do not read above atmouspheric pressure therefor cannot add fuel. The MAF table is stock and for fuel the only thing changed is the injector flow rate. All the other injector constants are stock. PE is an absolute wreck commanding mid 12's or leaner up to 3500rpm. Knock sensor recovery is 15x the stock value, which is basically how fast timing is added back in after knock is detected and timing pulled. Way too much timing especially down low and around peak torque.
---------------------------------------------------------
22* is lighting the fuse for sure!
$850 so he can blow my motor.....
---------------------------------------------------------
(Continued below....)
In 2008 or 2009, John Behe of Behe Performance was paid to do a coated headers install, with a dyno pull before the headers install, and a dyno pull after the headers install on my 2005 GTO. At the time, my car was running a Magnacharger 112 and a custom blower cam. The baseline tune was never done (which was the point of installing the headers... to see the exact horsepower increase). I picked the car up and the coating on the headers was dull in most spots, because coating burned since it was not cured correctly per the instructions from Jet-Hot. Upsetting situation, but oh well... what are you going to do??? John had pulled my transmission pan (or maybe just drained the fluid.... or maybe none of the above) and told me that my transmission was starting to slip and that I'd need to bring it back for a re-tune after the transmission was replaced.
I replaced the transmission with a Performabuilt Level 2, brought it back and John re-tuned the car. No transmission problems, and car was running well at the track, except for some hesitation at times when rolling into the throttle. Before I could bother bring the car back to John to have him look at that, I decided to remove the Magnacharger and have twin 62mm turbos fabricated by a shop local to me. In September of 2009 I brought the car back to John for a tune for the new twin turbo setup. I had just spent $900+ on building a virtually fail-proof methanol injection system, and right then and there John told me he refused to tune it for the meth injection, and convinced me I wouldn't need it. Pretty upsetting, but I had no choice so I dropped it off and left it with him for several days. Came and picked the car back up and he talked about how much of a beast the car was now and how great the tune was... but mentioned to me that my hot-side pipes of the turbo setup was causing too much heat in the engine bay. John's words were that he did a very safe tune for now until I can get the heat issues taken care of and bring it back so he can "wick it up a bit".
I roll off into the sunset in my freshly-tuned twin turbo GTO, thinking life is grand. Only to find out 30 minutes down the road that the transmission no longer up-shifts into the next gear at full throttle, regardless of what gear it is currently in. Too late to turn around now, so I bring the car back to John within a few weeks (after not driving the car hardly) and let him toy with the transmission parameters. He'd adjust a few things, I'd take the car out, still wouldn't up-shift at 100% throttle, pull back into the shop, and repeat. After 4 attempts, he gave up and told me that my new built transmission that was working just fine with the 508 RWHP setup I just had is not holding to the 639 RWHP @ 8 PSI that the car just made. I felt sorry for wasting his time, and handed him what I recall being $150 (It was at least $100... pretty sure $150) for 1.5 hours that he spent with the car after-hours that night.
After doing some research, the transmission didn't seem to be the problem. I didn't know where else the problem could be since John eliminated his tune as the problem. Less than 1k miles after the tune, the engine blows on a 3rd gear highway pull. I tore the engine down and all 4 pistons on bank 1 had detonated. The top 2 ring lands on the pistons were broken due to detonation. Not knowing what caused the pistons to blow, and I decided to put the engine back together with stock pistons (rather than spending $5k on a fully-forged short-block just to blow it too). I called John and asked him if he had any idea what could cause that, and he advised me the times that my transmission wasn't up-shifting at the engine hit the rev limiter is what lead to this. When I got the car running again, I had someone else take a look at the transmission tune, and we found that the RPM Limit (rev limit) and the up-shift RPM for each gear was all set to 6,200 RPM. No wonder why it wasn't up-shifting! We lowered the up-shift RPM and the car was now shifting like it should. Problems are over, right??? Nope.....
I take the car to the drag strip on a hot day and it wouldn't muster anything faster than 11.2. The car was previously doing 10.9's in the same kind of weather, at the same track, CONSISTENTLY, with 130 less RWHP on the last setup. How can it be????? A few days later, still less than 1k miles since the car has been back up and running again, the engine blows AGAIN on another highway pull. What the hell?????????
I call John and he basically says it's not the tune that lead to this. I let him know of his mistake with the transmission tune that I fixed, after he spent 1.5 hours looking at and couldn't figure it out. He still stood by his work. I had to give up on the car for a little while. I didn't have time to rebuild the engine again with my current job, so the car just sat.
Determined to figure out the problem a year after the engine blew a second time, I posted my tune on LS1Tech.com. We found that John set the tune for 22 degrees advance timing on 93 octane gas, on a twin turbo LS2 with stock internals. He put this much timing advance on a pump gas tune, after refusing to tune for the methanol injection I had just installed when I brought him the car. Here is what some of the people with tuning experience (most of them are advanced tuners, and have great reputations as LSx tuners) from LS1Tech had to say about my tune:
22 degrees of timing at 8 psi with a stock LS2 long block on 93 octane sounds way high. I would expect it to be more around the mid teens area if that up top but this is all just speculation from my chair posting on the internet. Hell down in the lower RPM range timing would have to be lower still.
---------------------------------------------------------
MAF table is bone stock. That's scary.
Too much timing for a boosted LS2.
PE is too lean until way up top, and is still a little lean up there.
Knock sensor sensitivity is left stock, but the max knock retard has been cut in half, so if it DOES knock, it will only pull 4 degrees,instead of up to 8 degrees.
Knock retard recovery is too high.
---------------------------------------------------------
The timing blew the motor. It won't show up much on a dyno but it's too high for long pulls like going down the highway.
---------------------------------------------------------
Timing for sure.... Needs race gas and Methanol to get by with that much timing and even then would be pushing it.
---------------------------------------------------------
Every vehicle is different, 17° past peak tq (top rpm) is the most ive pushed a stock on pump fuel at 8# (centri setups), would definitely not be at 17° through the most cyl pressure range, maybe 14 tops.
---------------------------------------------------------
Your making 600+ rwhp, on 93 octane pump gas with twins, on a STOCK ls2 shortblock (NON forged pistons obviously) and at wot your tuner has 22 degrees of timing? while you have No meth? no race fuel mix? not even a water 2 air incooler??
Not good at all my friend. I'm pretty sure its a combo of the timing and the amount of heat your building up during those long highway pulls. without some type of cooling of the charge (other then ambient air) that's just, well , "a blown up engine" waiting to happen, again.
---------------------------------------------------------
After looking at the tune I can say that [22 degrees timing advance] it is the reason why you have went through two motors. The VE table has portions that are stock and being a boosted car should disable below an RPM that boost could actually be built because the stock VE tables do not read above atmouspheric pressure therefor cannot add fuel. The MAF table is stock and for fuel the only thing changed is the injector flow rate. All the other injector constants are stock. PE is an absolute wreck commanding mid 12's or leaner up to 3500rpm. Knock sensor recovery is 15x the stock value, which is basically how fast timing is added back in after knock is detected and timing pulled. Way too much timing especially down low and around peak torque.
---------------------------------------------------------
22* is lighting the fuse for sure!
$850 so he can blow my motor.....
---------------------------------------------------------
(Continued below....)
09-26-2013, 12:24 PM
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In December of 2012 I sent John an e-mail letting him know I was having some problems with the tune, and after giving him a few weeks to reply I called the shop and left a message. Another 2 weeks went by and never received a call back. I called again and this time was able to get a hold of him and reminded him of what happened with the car since the day that I brought it to him to tune for the twin turbo setup. I then advised him of how many people on LS1Tech said that there was too much timing in my tune. John of course denied that 22 degrees was not too much, and said that he runs that much timing in boosted GTO’s all the time. He didn’t think that he any longer had a copy of my tune, so he asked me to e-mail him a copy of my tune so he could look at it again. I did the next day and he never responded. I called the shop and left several messages and he never returned the calls. I sent him another e-mail back in February of this year, reminding him that he hasn’t returned my calls or responded to the e-mail I sent him in January with the copy of the tune. Nothing.
With the cost of the tune, and the $150 or so I gave him to try to figure out his tuning mistake on my transmission tune, I essentially paid him just shy of $1,000 to blow my engine. Does that sound like a good way to spend your money??
John talks about how much better he is than the other tuners out there, how he spends so much time with tuning your car not only on the dyno but also on the street, which is the reason for his high costs. If John even left the dyno with my car, he would’ve known that the car wasn’t up-shifting at wide open throttle.
What I wanted from John was my money back from the tune. Forget the cost of the engine of mine that he blew, and the labor involved in me removing, rebuilding, and re-installing the engine (TWICE, for that matter)…. I just wanted my money back that I gave him for the engine tune as well as the money I gave him for trying to fix his own problem with the TCM tune. Instead of even TRYING to work SOMETHING out, John walked away from the problem and never returned a phone call or e-mail.
Before any of you vouch for how great of a job John did tuning your vehicle, please have your tune examined by someone. It may run great, and may be making lots of power, but there may be parameters in your tune that have your engine on its limits in order to produce those results. John came off as a knowledgeable tuner, but he has his way of b.s.-ing his way around tuning talk, and will give you lots of mis-information as he has done with me and others in the past. Protect your vehicle and spare yourself the wasted money and agony / labor costs of replacing your engine. I strongly recommend that you find another tuner before considering Behe Performance. Don’t let John convince you that everyone else on the Internet is lying and/or doesn’t know what they’re talking about. This is another scenario of John’s work and his unwillingness to stand up to his mistake and try to do the right thing. Don’t be another victim.
With the cost of the tune, and the $150 or so I gave him to try to figure out his tuning mistake on my transmission tune, I essentially paid him just shy of $1,000 to blow my engine. Does that sound like a good way to spend your money??
John talks about how much better he is than the other tuners out there, how he spends so much time with tuning your car not only on the dyno but also on the street, which is the reason for his high costs. If John even left the dyno with my car, he would’ve known that the car wasn’t up-shifting at wide open throttle.
What I wanted from John was my money back from the tune. Forget the cost of the engine of mine that he blew, and the labor involved in me removing, rebuilding, and re-installing the engine (TWICE, for that matter)…. I just wanted my money back that I gave him for the engine tune as well as the money I gave him for trying to fix his own problem with the TCM tune. Instead of even TRYING to work SOMETHING out, John walked away from the problem and never returned a phone call or e-mail.
Before any of you vouch for how great of a job John did tuning your vehicle, please have your tune examined by someone. It may run great, and may be making lots of power, but there may be parameters in your tune that have your engine on its limits in order to produce those results. John came off as a knowledgeable tuner, but he has his way of b.s.-ing his way around tuning talk, and will give you lots of mis-information as he has done with me and others in the past. Protect your vehicle and spare yourself the wasted money and agony / labor costs of replacing your engine. I strongly recommend that you find another tuner before considering Behe Performance. Don’t let John convince you that everyone else on the Internet is lying and/or doesn’t know what they’re talking about. This is another scenario of John’s work and his unwillingness to stand up to his mistake and try to do the right thing. Don’t be another victim.
09-26-2013, 12:24 PM
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And to add to the replies to 22 degrees of timing on my setup:
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22 degrees on pump gas and a stock motor? that smurfer is going to kerspload
ive done a few boosted stock motor ls2's and they usually end up around 10-13 degrees at wot
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My n/a motor didnt take 22 degrees... lol
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LS2 with 22* advance + forced induction = BOOM
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I can say with certainty that 22 isn't going to happen.
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Yes, if he had it set to command 22 degrees of timing and reducing the amount timing that can be retarded due to knock, then it likely died earlier than if it had stock knock retard tables.
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-Andrew
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22 degrees on pump gas and a stock motor? that smurfer is going to kerspload
ive done a few boosted stock motor ls2's and they usually end up around 10-13 degrees at wot
---------------------------------------------------------
My n/a motor didnt take 22 degrees... lol
---------------------------------------------------------
LS2 with 22* advance + forced induction = BOOM
---------------------------------------------------------
I can say with certainty that 22 isn't going to happen.
---------------------------------------------------------
Yes, if he had it set to command 22 degrees of timing and reducing the amount timing that can be retarded due to knock, then it likely died earlier than if it had stock knock retard tables.
---------------------------------------------------------
-Andrew
09-26-2013, 05:07 PM
#5
that blows, i've only tuned on my nitrous 5.3 but even i could tell ya 22 degrees was too much on that setup.. as soon as he told you to ditch the meth injection you should of ran!
09-26-2013, 11:07 PM
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Yeah, definitely blows. I should have ran at the point, but had nowhere else to run to. He convinced me that he knew 100% what he was doing. I was uneasy, but I handed over my keys and took his word for it. I totally regret that now.
09-26-2013, 11:10 PM
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ATTN: Moderators / Administrators
Is there any chance that this thread can be moved to the Eastern Members section? Might be more helpful there. Thank you.
Is there any chance that this thread can be moved to the Eastern Members section? Might be more helpful there. Thank you.
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09-27-2013, 06:15 PM
#8
One of those responses was mine. I remember your original thread.
Hard to believe that guy stays in business.
Hard to believe that guy stays in business.
MAF table is bone stock. That's scary.
Too much timing for a boosted LS2.
PE is too lean until way up top, and is still a little lean up there.
Knock sensor sensitivity is left stock, but the max knock retard has been cut in half, so if it DOES knock, it will only pull 4 degrees,instead of up to 8 degrees.
Knock retard recovery is too high.
Too much timing for a boosted LS2.
PE is too lean until way up top, and is still a little lean up there.
Knock sensor sensitivity is left stock, but the max knock retard has been cut in half, so if it DOES knock, it will only pull 4 degrees,instead of up to 8 degrees.
Knock retard recovery is too high.
09-30-2013, 06:54 AM
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Ive seen this exact attitude from multiple tuners a couple times and i melted down 2 forged motors. Too agressive pump gas tunes.
When they start trying to impress you witg how aggress they tune and not to worry that's when you run. I had a guy just a couple weeks ago tune my car and mess with the meth settings so it doesn't turn on till over 16psi.
He said the tune was complete ready to race. I leave,hit it at 15psi on the highway. No meth ,12.8 afr and 20 degrees timing. That's safe? I don't think so. I pulled over and erased his whole tune. I do it my self now.
When they start trying to impress you witg how aggress they tune and not to worry that's when you run. I had a guy just a couple weeks ago tune my car and mess with the meth settings so it doesn't turn on till over 16psi.
He said the tune was complete ready to race. I leave,hit it at 15psi on the highway. No meth ,12.8 afr and 20 degrees timing. That's safe? I don't think so. I pulled over and erased his whole tune. I do it my self now.
09-30-2013, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I am considering learning how to tune my N/A Countour SVT with a 3.0L swap, but not sure I have the time to learn how to do forced induction properly. I'm not the kind that has the patience to try to learn it all in the amount of time that I want the car running properly. As we know, the tune is a bit more sensitive with a boosted car, and I wouldn't want to end up grenading another motor due to my impatience to learn.
09-30-2013, 07:29 AM
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I hear ya, I too am busy and didn't want to learn runing. But after so many tuners i had no choice. Im no pro at all but its getting easier. Where are you located? If you aren't using meth speed inc close to Chicago is good.
09-30-2013, 09:25 AM
#14
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Sorry you got nowhere, but when we spoke I told you there was little chance of a refund since he thought he did nothing wrong. John B's MO is the same for everything he touches, 22-24* timing, OE MAF and VE tables, butchered injector data, O2 sensor DTC's deleted, and O2 sensor balance point jacked to run rich at all times. This guy is a hack plain and simple and has already moved shops once again.
You had the exact same tune as my CTS-V, which was the same as an '06 Maggied CTS-V owned by another forum member (fixed by RPM).
I would try to link your old post (and mine also if you can still find it, "Another $500 Tune") to show this is a persistent problem with this *******. My thread had the actual tune for everyone to see. Your thread is all kinda all over the place and hard to follow.
FWIW - this guy is being totally honest about what he's been through with BEHE. He PM'd me before he started a thread about it hoping that John would have the decency to at least refund the tune money. That was a year wasted, as you can tell. Two of the absolute worst tuners on the planet...John B. of BEHE and Chuck C.O.W., they'll baffle you with bullshit and disappear when your **** blows up on the side of the road. Beware.
Anyhow, sorry you got took. You're not alone.
Edit: here is another thread I started over on the Caddy forum after the OP sent me a PM (and subsequently asked me to remove it). I have a screen shot of the timing tables from my BEHE Maggie tune against the OE for all to see (POST # 11). Even has a well known tuner (Wait4Me) defending him until he actually looked at the tune. You can't make this **** up. OP, I'm out of town at the moment and all I have is my iPhone, I'll try linking and even have a Mod change the title to get better coverage in my original thread.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...gain-long.html
You had the exact same tune as my CTS-V, which was the same as an '06 Maggied CTS-V owned by another forum member (fixed by RPM).
I would try to link your old post (and mine also if you can still find it, "Another $500 Tune") to show this is a persistent problem with this *******. My thread had the actual tune for everyone to see. Your thread is all kinda all over the place and hard to follow.
FWIW - this guy is being totally honest about what he's been through with BEHE. He PM'd me before he started a thread about it hoping that John would have the decency to at least refund the tune money. That was a year wasted, as you can tell. Two of the absolute worst tuners on the planet...John B. of BEHE and Chuck C.O.W., they'll baffle you with bullshit and disappear when your **** blows up on the side of the road. Beware.
Anyhow, sorry you got took. You're not alone.
Edit: here is another thread I started over on the Caddy forum after the OP sent me a PM (and subsequently asked me to remove it). I have a screen shot of the timing tables from my BEHE Maggie tune against the OE for all to see (POST # 11). Even has a well known tuner (Wait4Me) defending him until he actually looked at the tune. You can't make this **** up. OP, I'm out of town at the moment and all I have is my iPhone, I'll try linking and even have a Mod change the title to get better coverage in my original thread.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...gain-long.html
Last edited by DMM; 09-30-2013 at 11:54 AM.
09-30-2013, 10:03 AM
#15
Jesus! 22 degrees?! My buddies record setting G8 was only running 10* when it was supercharged. I think he only went up to 12* or 14* when he Twin Turbocharged it. Sorry you went through 2 motors dude, that really is S****y of him to do that to you.
09-30-2013, 10:06 AM
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I'm located in the Annapolis, MD area. Chicago is a bit too far for me. I've heard good things about Jeff Lowery somewhere in my area here in MD, but I'll cross that bridge on deciding a new tuner when I get there.
09-30-2013, 10:21 AM
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Sorry you got nowhere, but when we spoke I told you there was little chance of a refund since he thought he did nothing wrong. John B's MO is the same for everything he touches, 22-24* timing, OE MAF and VE tables, butchered injector data, O2 sensor DTC's deleted, and O2 sensor balance point jacked to run rich at all times. This guy is a hack plain and simple and has already moved shops once again.
You had the exact same tune as my CTS-V, which was the same as an '06 Maggied CTS-V owned by another forum member (fixed by RPM).
I would try to link your old post (and mine also if you can still find it, "Another $500 Tune") to show this is a persistent problem with this *******. My thread had the actual tune for everyone to see. Your thread is all kinda all over the place and hard to follow.
FWIW - this guy is being totally honest about what he's been through with BEHE. He PM'd me before he started a thread about it hoping that John would have the decency to at least refund the tune money. That was a year wasted, as you can tell. Two of the absolute worst tuners on the planet...John B. of BEHE and Chuck C.O.W., they'll baffle you with bullshit and disappear when your **** blows up on the side of the road. Beware.
Anyhow, sorry you got took. You're not alone.
You had the exact same tune as my CTS-V, which was the same as an '06 Maggied CTS-V owned by another forum member (fixed by RPM).
I would try to link your old post (and mine also if you can still find it, "Another $500 Tune") to show this is a persistent problem with this *******. My thread had the actual tune for everyone to see. Your thread is all kinda all over the place and hard to follow.
FWIW - this guy is being totally honest about what he's been through with BEHE. He PM'd me before he started a thread about it hoping that John would have the decency to at least refund the tune money. That was a year wasted, as you can tell. Two of the absolute worst tuners on the planet...John B. of BEHE and Chuck C.O.W., they'll baffle you with bullshit and disappear when your **** blows up on the side of the road. Beware.
Anyhow, sorry you got took. You're not alone.
So was there anything different between my tune and yours? That's probably where the 22 degrees in my tune came from.... I'm pretty sure at one time I had read somewhere that CTS-V's running that kind of timing on their supercharged setups. He probably just gave me the same tune that he gave you since I had forced induction too. He really does sound like he is (or at least was) using the same damn cookie-cutter tune for several boosted cars. I'll definitely link my thread to yours, feel free to link mine wherever you want!
Last edited by MEAN GTO; 10-03-2013 at 10:07 AM.
09-30-2013, 10:26 AM
#18
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Thanks man... yeah it's pretty ridiculous and I wish there was more I could do about it. Very unprofessional of a business with an otherwise good reputation in the industry.
09-30-2013, 10:32 AM
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Here is DMM's thread of John's horrible work on his CTS-V:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...dyno-tune.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...dyno-tune.html
09-30-2013, 10:53 AM
#20
Sad part there is a lot of shops like this around. People will say they are the best but have no clue there car has a jacked/dangerous tune in it.
Sometimes I wonder if these tuners are actually trying to tune these cars correctly to the best they can do or are just happy to throw numbers out of the dyno, who cares how they drive or blow up?
Keep the faith. There are still many good tuners out there.
Sometimes I wonder if these tuners are actually trying to tune these cars correctly to the best they can do or are just happy to throw numbers out of the dyno, who cares how they drive or blow up?
Keep the faith. There are still many good tuners out there.