AC stuck on defroster tried everything
#1
AC stuck on defroster tried everything
So it's been going on for a while. Firtst I changed the ac belt to make my car stop squealing. This was after removing it and procrastinating on changing it for about two weeks. After I did that the ac stopped blowing cold air. So I charged it with Freon and it still wasn't good. Charged it again and found a leak in the high pressure line right next to the condenser. So I went the cheapest way and replaced the o-ring and it still leaked after I charged it. So then I ordered the line and replaced it and charged the system again and now it's stuck in "default mode".
I've read up on other posts and checked damn near everything and it's still no good. I replaced the check valve and the tubing below the throttle body. It should be noted that it was replaced with a different check valve than what is supposed to be. We just used whatever fit. Then I replaced a split line on the passenger side of the intake. So Idk if that valve is rated at a different pressure than the oem one. I found the line behind the intake disconnected still nothing. The three way splitter next to the pcm was good. The Orange line under the glove box (don't know what it connects to) is good. I'm pretty sure the controls are good because I can hear the compressor shutting on and off when I change the positions. The fan speed changes and the air changes from ambient to hot.
Having said all this I'm baffled and have no idea what to check next. I don't want to take it to a shop because I know it's something stupid easy.
P.S. Idk of the line is good because I'm not too sure if the Freon is circulating through the line.
Thanks for any input. I'm desperate!!!
I've read up on other posts and checked damn near everything and it's still no good. I replaced the check valve and the tubing below the throttle body. It should be noted that it was replaced with a different check valve than what is supposed to be. We just used whatever fit. Then I replaced a split line on the passenger side of the intake. So Idk if that valve is rated at a different pressure than the oem one. I found the line behind the intake disconnected still nothing. The three way splitter next to the pcm was good. The Orange line under the glove box (don't know what it connects to) is good. I'm pretty sure the controls are good because I can hear the compressor shutting on and off when I change the positions. The fan speed changes and the air changes from ambient to hot.
Having said all this I'm baffled and have no idea what to check next. I don't want to take it to a shop because I know it's something stupid easy.
P.S. Idk of the line is good because I'm not too sure if the Freon is circulating through the line.
Thanks for any input. I'm desperate!!!
#2
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
the only bit of advice I have comes from when I swapped my stock intake for a FAST 92. I did EGR and AIR delete and when I gutted all the extra emissions **** it left me with some tubes in the back passenger side of the motor. I plugged the lines and the back of the intake and BAM! the air had no direction and just flowed out the defroster. I did a little research and I needed to plug the lines together and hit the back of the intake to create pressure to move the air in the direction I was wanting it to go, vents, floor etc... So if I were you I'd inspect back there to see if something came loose or is broken. Also, those lines back there were so frail from age all I did was touch them and they broke.
#4
So update me and my dad too apart the hvac control and it has a vacuum. I just don't know how strong it is supposed to be. We were able to get it off the "default mode" by reseating the rubber washer on the inside of the hvac control and now it comes out of the dash vents but still seeps through the center dash defroster. I can hear the compressor kicking on and off when I cycle it through the different positions it just isn't cold at all. My dad was contemplating on buying a set of high side low side pressure gauges. The low side was fluctuating around 30 psi. This was using the standard ac pro refill gauge. He suggested adding another can of freon but I'm hesitant because I've already used 4 cans (not all at once) trying to fix this ac problem. Should I bite the bullet?
Also I reattached a line at the back of the intake to what felt like a t-fitting. This was one of the first things I did when this all started.
Also I reattached a line at the back of the intake to what felt like a t-fitting. This was one of the first things I did when this all started.
#8
Is that no joke a valve that opens and closes? Or is it a fitting that routes the air? I pulled that one off too and blew through it and I thought it was just a t-fitting because the air went right through. I can pull it off again and look at it again. It didn't look cracked or anything.
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
It's a check valve. You can actually replace it with a T-fitting and the HVAC doors will still work (although not optimally).
Is the system blowing cold air at all with the A/C on? Does the heater blow through any of the vents properly? The ONLY thing the vacuum source controls is the directional doors (floor/dash, defrost, etc). The mixing door is controlled by a cable from the HVAC temp. control ****.
Is the system blowing cold air at all with the A/C on? Does the heater blow through any of the vents properly? The ONLY thing the vacuum source controls is the directional doors (floor/dash, defrost, etc). The mixing door is controlled by a cable from the HVAC temp. control ****.
#10
It doesn't blow cold air at all it's just heat. I thought I might have fixed the direction problem yesterday because it was coming out the face vents as hot but this morning it was back to only defroster.