Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Having some issues with switchbacks I installed today. They're white with the car on, but when I try to use turn signals or flashers it's just not doing anything. I have the Tridon LL552C electronic flasher because I installed LEDs in the side markers and tail lights previously. I'm trying to do research in other threads and the consensus seems to be to get the NAPA EL-2. Before I order though, I just wanted to make sure it'll work. Does anyone have experience using the LL552C flasher and it not working? And is it the current fact that the EL-2 is the go-to flasher for switchbacks?

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

you need a "no-load" flasher.. I got mine from Amazon

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

Dont mean to jump in but.... where does the flasher go????

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

under the dash next to the steering column

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Here ya go, this is where the two flashers are. One for signals and one for emergency flashers.
https://youtu.be/N5HC2gH8zlc

​​​​​​​I feel like an idiot now because I'm realizing the LL552C I got to work with my LEDs doesn't actually say "no-load" anywhere. Apparently it was good enough for the LEDs in my tail lights but the switchbacks are just too much for it. Can't find the EL-12 on Advance Auto but any No Load flasher will work you say? Also weirdly on NAPA website the EL-12 doesn't say "no load" anywhere either. Thanks for the Amazon Link, but my prime ran out so I'd rather do Advance Auto if possible and use my coupons (yes I'm cheap).

I wonder if it's just about amperage rating? Maybe this one will work? ​​​​​​​http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/novita-heavy-duty-flasher-el13/5081270-P

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The EL-12 is an electronic but not a no-load flasher. And the EL-13 heavy duty flasher is the exact opposite of what you need - it's a flasher designed to handle the extra load of trailer lights rather than the insignificant load of LED bulbs.

There are numerous no-load flashers available from different manufacturers under different numbers. Your local auto parts store - NAPA, Pep Boys, even Walmart - will have no-load flashers in stock because so many people are replacing standard bulbs with LEDs. Just look for labels that say either "no-load" or "LED".

Hopefully you understand that switchbacks won't work the way most expect when used on an f-body. The DRLs and the turn signals will be amber. They will only be white when the running lights are in use (i.e. with the headlights on).

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Thanks WhiteBird, that definitely answers the question. More research leads to the CF12ANL-01, but that's on backorder on SuperbrightLEDs, it's getting hard to find apparently. I'm trying to find other models that will work and won't be as hard to find. Can you suggest anything? The Amazon link above for the "Keep it Clean" flasher seems to work for some people but others in the review section report that it doesn't, so I'm hesitant to buy it.

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

Thanks all,I would of never found that little bastard behind the plastic.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

I will be installing switchbacks on my car after the build is done. I was trying to figure out a way to wire the DRLs into an ignition source, so that the white light would be on any time that the car is in the "run" position. I am unsure what this will do, however, to the orange flasher signal, if still connected to the factory wiring on that side. If there is an issue, I figure it may work only with the headlights on or only off. Any thoughts?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It can be done. Basically, you will wire the parking light circuit (the brown wire) to an ignition-switched source to have the white light on. This will work because the internal circuitry of the switchback has the amber (turn signal) circuit override the parking (white) circuit when both are active. But it means that you will have to bypass the factory DRL module because otherwise it will still be powering the amber circuit most of the time. You do that by disconnecting the four blue wires at the DRL module (light blue, light blue with white, dark blue and dark blue with white) and connecting the matching blue wires together - light blue to light blue with white and dark blue to dark blue with white. That will bypass the DRL module but still leave the front turn signals working.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

Mind blown.

I knew about the internal override. I have seen this on Audi's and others that do so from the factory. Even when they use different bulbs, the DRL shuts off so that you will notice the directional attempting to draw your attention.

That part about shorting the DRL module in order to bypass it, that is gold right there. I figured there had to be a way to get the blinker to act like a blinker regardless of headlight position.

I am looking at running a set of the Morimoto XSB strips beneath the strake in the outer scoops (in the pocket below the factory Trans Am DRLs). The only issue is that they say they should be sealed inside the headlamp, not outside and exposed. They look like they would be fine though, as long as I use shrink tubing on all of the wiring.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

Where is that DRL module, BTW?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I know that there's probably some rhyme or reason to these part numbers, but doesn't anyone read these things (like license plates) before they go to market with them?



^ It's been one of those days...


I recall it's behind the radio and HVAC controls. If you search for DRL module location, you should have some pictures come up.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes mounted to the duct work behind the radio. Just pull out the radio and reach through the opening to access the DRL module. It has two connectors - an 8-pin black and an 8-pin blue. The four blue wires you want are in the black connector.

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Well since no one seems to have any other suggestions, I'll get the "Keep it Clean" flasher on Amazon I guess. There's a lot more 5 star reviews than 1 star, so I guess it's good for most applications including mine.

VIP1

The "Keep it Clean" flasher in the Amazon link works for me. I bought it a while back when it was $15 (it is $10 now).

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Did you have full LEDs? I have the side markers and tail lights as LED so everything that's flashing is going to be LED. The reviews say it's not actually no-load, just a very low load. So I guess unless you're pushing a light bar of LEDs it's sufficient, and for our cars it won't ever reach that limit without fabrication of new turn signals.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The side markers don't flash so changing them to LED won't affect the turn signals.

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Ah, ok. So then it's just the two taillights and the DRL bulbs that the flasher has to compensate for? All I need to do then is confirm that someone with the Keep It Clean flasher has LEDs in these 6 places and we should be good to go.

VIP1

On my car:
Side Markers (which don't flash): LED
Front DRL/Turn Signals: LED
CHMSL: LED
Tail Parking Lamps: LED
Tail Stop/Turn Lamps: 2 LED, 2 Incandescent
(Gives an almost sequential look to the brake lights although I will eventually swap out the two remaining bulbs to be LED)