Weird gauge readings HELP ASAP
#1
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Weird gauge readings HELP ASAP
Hello everyone,
I tried to get the blue film off of the gauge cluster, and did so successfully (I cut it out like construction paper). In order to peel the gauge screen off, I took out all of the needles and the sensors, but labeled them. I thought I put them back correctly, but when I went to start the car, none of the gauges read right.
The only one that comes close is the tachometer, and it reads very choppy.
Any suggestions as to how to fix the problem?
I tried to get the blue film off of the gauge cluster, and did so successfully (I cut it out like construction paper). In order to peel the gauge screen off, I took out all of the needles and the sensors, but labeled them. I thought I put them back correctly, but when I went to start the car, none of the gauges read right.
The only one that comes close is the tachometer, and it reads very choppy.
Any suggestions as to how to fix the problem?
#4
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How did you label everything? To get them right, you need to mark the gauge locations with the power on to the gauges. (You take the plastic shield off and then reinstall the cluster so you can get power to it and then reach the needles.)
Then, you need to put it back in, power it, then put the needles back on the posts. Did you do it like that? With the power off, the needles rest on some plastic posts, which allows the shafts to rotate additionally when you take the needles off.
Then, you need to put it back in, power it, then put the needles back on the posts. Did you do it like that? With the power off, the needles rest on some plastic posts, which allows the shafts to rotate additionally when you take the needles off.
#5
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I just marked them individually by gauge "Speedo", "Tach", "Fuel", "Oil Press". I thought I put them in correctly because the holes on the posts line up with the holes in the clear piece.
So you're saying I need to install everything with the power off, put power to the cluster, then install the needles?
Let me know if this is correct.
So you're saying I need to install everything with the power off, put power to the cluster, then install the needles?
Let me know if this is correct.
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The needles are all interchangeable but they are unkeyed. The thing you need to mark is the position they are in with the accessory power on. (You then need to replace them in the exact same position when you have the new face on.)
If you did not do this, then its like taking the hands off of a grandfather clock at midnight and then putting them back on so the hands say 3:16. Its still midnight and the clock will still strike 12 times, but the hands will tell you something different.
If you didn't mark the right "time" before you took the needles off, you'll need to recalibrate them. This post shows the procedure: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...achometer.html
If you did not do this, then its like taking the hands off of a grandfather clock at midnight and then putting them back on so the hands say 3:16. Its still midnight and the clock will still strike 12 times, but the hands will tell you something different.
If you didn't mark the right "time" before you took the needles off, you'll need to recalibrate them. This post shows the procedure: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...achometer.html
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#8
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That should do it. Not sure if the scanner will give you fuel info, but you can guesstimate that after a fill-up. (The needle goes past full then.)
A good way to dial in your mph is to get a portable GPS, put it in map mode and drive along a straight street at various speeds. The GPS will give you accurate mph readings in that scenario and will tell you how far off your speedometer is.
A good way to dial in your mph is to get a portable GPS, put it in map mode and drive along a straight street at various speeds. The GPS will give you accurate mph readings in that scenario and will tell you how far off your speedometer is.