2 1/16" gauges stopped lighting up
#4
OK, so the autometer cobalts are LED and not bulbs, so i cant replace them.
I performed the continuity test at the connector that the gauges plug into. I've got 12V power and a solid ground to the backlight on the gauges, but the gauges still do not light up. Any suggestions?
I performed the continuity test at the connector that the gauges plug into. I've got 12V power and a solid ground to the backlight on the gauges, but the gauges still do not light up. Any suggestions?
#7
Kleeborp the Moderator™
iTrader: (11)
Where is the power for the lights coming from? Check that connection first - if it isn't a good connection, that can cause problems (had it happen to me).
What you might do is pull the gauge itself and run 12V into the appropriate pin (not sure which, but the one that delivers the illumination power) and ground the pin that is supposed to be grounded. That should let you know if the gauge itself is bad - with the Cobalt gauges being LED backlit, I'd doubt that the LEDs have crapped out already. They have a long life.
I've dealt with Autometer's customer service before, and they were very helpful. If all else fails, give them a call - I sent them an oil temp gauge (Cobalt series) that was giving me weird readings under really cold conditions, and they sent me a new one back, no questions asked.
What you might do is pull the gauge itself and run 12V into the appropriate pin (not sure which, but the one that delivers the illumination power) and ground the pin that is supposed to be grounded. That should let you know if the gauge itself is bad - with the Cobalt gauges being LED backlit, I'd doubt that the LEDs have crapped out already. They have a long life.
I've dealt with Autometer's customer service before, and they were very helpful. If all else fails, give them a call - I sent them an oil temp gauge (Cobalt series) that was giving me weird readings under really cold conditions, and they sent me a new one back, no questions asked.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Just to be certain what you checked, and also to clarify the terms... Did you do an actual continuity check on the power wires for the illumination? And then ALSO do a voltage/ground check?
If you are getting 12 volts at the gauge for the illumination, and are getting zero ohms on the continuity test between the gauge's ground and the ground point, then you should have lights.
Really more info is needed for diagnosis, but if you're sure your connections and feeds are good, the next thing I would do is what was already suggested by meent. Give the gauges some test power directly to their pins. If they light up, you have a wiring issue. If not, then the next thing Ide do is give autometer a call and see what they suggest.
Did you wire the gauges or did you have them wired by someone else? (Edit: Just re-read...they were installed by someone else. This could mean just about anything...depending how they wired the powers and grounds and where they are pulling the power/grounds from. My autometer gauges have ALWAYS been picky about where they get their power from and they require good solid clean grounds. Ive never played with the LED cobalts though, so not too sure what they require.)
J.
If you are getting 12 volts at the gauge for the illumination, and are getting zero ohms on the continuity test between the gauge's ground and the ground point, then you should have lights.
Really more info is needed for diagnosis, but if you're sure your connections and feeds are good, the next thing I would do is what was already suggested by meent. Give the gauges some test power directly to their pins. If they light up, you have a wiring issue. If not, then the next thing Ide do is give autometer a call and see what they suggest.
Did you wire the gauges or did you have them wired by someone else? (Edit: Just re-read...they were installed by someone else. This could mean just about anything...depending how they wired the powers and grounds and where they are pulling the power/grounds from. My autometer gauges have ALWAYS been picky about where they get their power from and they require good solid clean grounds. Ive never played with the LED cobalts though, so not too sure what they require.)
J.
#9
wow thanks for the responses guys!
Meents thats a great idea and will try that when i get home.
My buddy was helping me last night, and i too dont think the LEDs are just going to crap out like that.
Originally the wire that the original installer tapped from was the traction control button illuminator (gray wire)... so we thought that might have been the issue, therefore we tapped into the gray back-light wire for the heat/AC control panel (if that makes sense? im NOT a wiring guru).
the continuity test even lit up after testing the ground, but i'm skeptical about the current ground which is
i just dont understand how they can work, and all of a sudden just go out a year or two later..
EDIT: the current ground is being run where 2 OTHER grounds are, right where the BCM grounds on that tab below the dash on the driver side. If you have ANY idea where that is...
Meents thats a great idea and will try that when i get home.
My buddy was helping me last night, and i too dont think the LEDs are just going to crap out like that.
Originally the wire that the original installer tapped from was the traction control button illuminator (gray wire)... so we thought that might have been the issue, therefore we tapped into the gray back-light wire for the heat/AC control panel (if that makes sense? im NOT a wiring guru).
the continuity test even lit up after testing the ground, but i'm skeptical about the current ground which is
i just dont understand how they can work, and all of a sudden just go out a year or two later..
EDIT: the current ground is being run where 2 OTHER grounds are, right where the BCM grounds on that tab below the dash on the driver side. If you have ANY idea where that is...
#12
yeah man, im happy we figured out the cause. Not so happy the gauges are all out, but what can you do?
I spoke with a technician and will send out the gauges tomorrow..
problem is he suspects there was a shortage or somekind, and fried the LED lightboard on the gauges.. if thats the case im sure ill be paying for a repair. oh well, you live and you learn
at least i understand wiring now
I spoke with a technician and will send out the gauges tomorrow..
problem is he suspects there was a shortage or somekind, and fried the LED lightboard on the gauges.. if thats the case im sure ill be paying for a repair. oh well, you live and you learn
at least i understand wiring now