Joenaz2000

Ive been through most of the electrical issues posted and haven't seen anything like this. Any help would be great.

A quick electrical history.
I was having the BCM and headlight gear issues back in March. So id have to smack mybdash pretty hard to get everything to work. I replaced the gear in the headlight and pulled the BCM and resoldered the points that were cold joints. Both issues solved.

The actual issues.
Then come July I began having alarm issues. I would hit the unlock button on the alarm remote and the car would unlock but the alarm wouldn't disengage causing the car not to start. I would wait about 5 minutes then the security light would go off and the car would start. Out of knowhere that stopped but now maybe every 2 weeks or so when I turn the car off, my radio stays on when I open the doors. Once that happens my drivers side window won't roll down for a day or so. Once the radio starts turning off when I shut the car off the window rolls down again. Coincidentally it always rolls up.

I haven't checked power to the window motor when it happens due to a massive amount of sound deadening on the door skins combined with door panels that most of the clips broke off and were replaced with metal angles and a ton of hot glue so they suck to put back on. I'm hoping someone has a better idea of what the issue might be so i can try to avoid all that unless absolutely necessary.

Any ideas or a point in the right direction will be great. Thanks again in advance.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

I'm having similar issues. My keyless entry will unlock the car but the security light will stay on not letting me start it for about 5 mins. Sometimes it will do this even without the light being on. And other times (once a day atleast) the ignition will engage but the starter just cranks and cranks for about 6-8 secs before the motor turns over. It's driving me ******* nuts! I hope you find out as I'm in need of advice aswell.

Joenaz2000

That's how it started. But my starter never cranked. In fact the first couple times it happened i thought my battery was dead and had someone jump me.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The SECURITY light in the instrument cluster has nothing to do with the keyless entry or factory alarm system (that's the red LED on top of the dash next to the defroster vent). The SECURITY light is part of the VATS circuit that prevents the car from starting if the BCM doesn't recognize the resistor pellet in the ignition key. If the light is flashing, it means the BCM doesn't see a resistor pellet at all. If it is on solid, the BCM sees a pellet but not the right one.

There are several possible causes but the most common is just a build-up of dirt and grime on the key contacts and the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. Use a pencil eraser to clean the pellet contacts on your key then follow up with some rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth. Use spray electronics cleaner (or tuner cleaner) from Radio Shack to clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. A pipe cleaner can help brush off any grime in the ignition cylinder.

If that doesn't work, try your spare key. If you still have the problem then you may have to bypass the VATS system. Do a search in this forum for "VATS bypass" to get details on how to do that.

Joenaz2000

Ill give that a try. Thanks.

Any ideas in the window/HU issue. You think it may be the window motor and the HU staying on is just coincidental?

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

I've already done the resistor bypass. That's not the problem. I even took it apart, checked it with my volt meter and did it all again making sure it wouldn't come loose. I've sat and watched with out even touch the area under the dash as to not move it. It always starts in a few minutes. Some times it does this without even showing the SECURTY light.

Something else that may or may not be related. Twice now when turning on my headlights, everything came on as usual but the headlights didn't flip up. No weird grinding noise or anything. Then about 2 minutes later they came up. First thought was a bad gear or something. But then both wouldnt stay down and come up together.

Also the times when the car does start but cranks about 6-8 secs first before starting, what is that? I've even noticed a few times when I turn the key nothing happens for about 1-2 seconds and right as I'm about to let off the key it starts. WTH is that? I think it's all related. Does the BCM control all this? It's to much to just be the starter or ignition I think.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Many of the described symptoms are related to the BCM but several are not so it is unlikely that a single fault is causing all the problems.

The BCM is responsible for the following circuits:
- keyless entry system
- content theft deterrent system (factory alarm)
- vehicle theft deterrent system (VATS)
- audible warnings
- retained accessory power including radio and power windows
- power door locks
- hatch release
- courtesy lights

Both the factory alarm and VATS can disable the engine by turning off the ground to the starter relay switching coil (preventing the starter from turning) and by not sending a fuel enable signal to the PCM (stopping fuel to the engine).

It is possible that a faulty BCM might enable the starter but not the fuel causing the engine to crank but not start. I suppose it is also possible (although extremely unlikely) for a faulty BCM to turn on the SECURITY light yet not actually register a problem in VATS. It is far more likely that the BCM is enabling the SECURITY light because there is a real problem with VATS. The problem doesn't necessarily have to be with a bypass resistor - it could be in the wiring between the resistor and the BCM or it could be internal to the BCM itself. Test the resistance seen at the BCM by unplugging the blue 32-pin connector and measuring the resistance between the purple/white wire in position C2 and the white/black wire in position D7 - that will tell you if the wiring or bypass is the problem or if the problem is in the BCM. Cranking but not catching could also be a problem unrelated to the electronics such as an issue with something in the fuel system or not getting enough spark. Internal combustion engines suffered those sort of problems long before computers took over.

It is not possible for the BCM to affect headlight operation. When Firebirds have bad headlight door gears, sometimes the headlights will pop up and down when using the keyless entry because the BCM flashes the parking/running lights. But there is no direct connection between the BCM and the headlight circuit.

Having the radio stay on when the door is opened could also be a faulty BCM or it could be the door switch. Next time it happens, try opening the passenger door and see if the radio then turns off. If so, the driver's door switch is gummed up, needs adjustment, or is bad (most likely just gummed up since it's an intermittent problem - some WD40 should help).

Joenaz2000

I cleaned the key and ignition as you suggested and I haven't had the starting problem. Thanks for the help.

Now I'm working on the window issue. I'm thinking it's the regulator or motor so I'm going to have to pull the sound demander off and start testing wires. I found a receipt which I thought was the passenger side regulator from 2007. So it may very we'll be the same issue.

Joenaz2000

I gave up and changed the window motor today and the window works fine now. Both problems solved. Thanks for your help everyone.