Headlight wiring diagram?
09-20-2007, 08:56 PM
#1
Headlight wiring diagram? Does anyone know where i could find a headlight wiring diagram for a TA? I am having some troubleing issues with the motors. The motors work but they are not getting the proper signal all of the time. I replaced the module, and last night i temporarily bypassed the weather tight connector because of corrosion, but this still didn't remedy the problem. Maybe if i know what kind of volts is needed i could better diagnose my problem.
09-21-2007, 07:29 AM
#3
OK. Thanks. I just found ths post by you also. Maybe with this info I can figure it out.
__________________
Headlights:
Light Green = high beam +
Yellow = low beam +
Black = ground
Headlight motors:
Light Green = left motor (+ when opening, - when closing)
Dark Green = left motor (- when opening, + when closing)
Light Blue = right motor (+ when opening, - when closing)
Dark Blue = left motor (- when opening, + when closing)
T/S -DRL - Parking Lights:
Brown = parking/running lights +
Blue = turn signal/DRL + (depending on year may be dark blue both sides or light blue on left side with dark blue on right side)
Black = ground
Side markers:
Brown = parking/running lights +
Black = ground
Fog lights:
Purple = power
Black = ground
Light Green = high beam +
Yellow = low beam +
Black = ground
Headlight motors:
Light Green = left motor (+ when opening, - when closing)
Dark Green = left motor (- when opening, + when closing)
Light Blue = right motor (+ when opening, - when closing)
Dark Blue = left motor (- when opening, + when closing)
T/S -DRL - Parking Lights:
Brown = parking/running lights +
Blue = turn signal/DRL + (depending on year may be dark blue both sides or light blue on left side with dark blue on right side)
Black = ground
Side markers:
Brown = parking/running lights +
Black = ground
Fog lights:
Purple = power
Black = ground
01-27-2010, 09:43 PM
#4
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i'm bringing this thread back from the grave to ask for some help... my pass side high beam won't turn on so i stabbed the wires with a tester and this is what happened with the bulb disconnected green was positive and brown was negative... then i connected the bulb and both wires were negative. anybody know why this might happen? my car won't pass state inspection without the high beams and it's coming up pretty soon. thanks for your help
01-28-2010, 08:41 AM
#5
Okay, first the obvious... you have swapped the lamp with the one that works on the other side to eliminate the possibility that it's just the bulb?
Next, we have to improve your testing methods. You can't properly determine if a wire is negative using only a test light the way you did. For example, the fog lights ground through the high beam circuit so that they turn off when the high beams are on because the "ground" wire has voltage on it. In your case, the light green wire will show ground when the high beams are off because it will back feed through the fog light circuit - but it is a power supply (positive) wire not a ground (negative).
There are three wires at the headlights: black is ground, yellow is low beam power, and light green is high beam power. Assuming you only have a test light, try the following tests (all tests are with the connector unplugged).
First, test that you have a good ground at the socket. Connect the test light clip to the positive post of the battery and insert the probe into the pin for the black wire in the headlight connector. The test light should light regardless of headlight switch position. If not, fix the ground.
Second, move the test light clip to the negative post of the battery. (You can use other ground locations but the battery is right next to the right side headlight so it's convenient and certain.) Insert the probe into the connector for the yellow wire. The test light should be on with the headlight switch on regardless of whether you switch to high beam of low beam. It should be off when the headlight switch is off.
Finally, leave the test light clip connected to ground (battery negative) and insert the probe into the connector for the light green wire. The test light should be on when the headlight switch is on and the high beams are selected. It should be off under all other conditions (although it might light dimly if the fog lights are on because they ground through that circuit - best to leave the fog lights off for this testing).
If all tests work as expected, replace the high beam lamp. If not then you'll have to start tracing the source of the problem. Corrosion in the socket is a good candidate. Since the other side still works, you would only have to trace the power wire back to the splice in the harness - a matter of only a few feet.
Next, we have to improve your testing methods. You can't properly determine if a wire is negative using only a test light the way you did. For example, the fog lights ground through the high beam circuit so that they turn off when the high beams are on because the "ground" wire has voltage on it. In your case, the light green wire will show ground when the high beams are off because it will back feed through the fog light circuit - but it is a power supply (positive) wire not a ground (negative).
There are three wires at the headlights: black is ground, yellow is low beam power, and light green is high beam power. Assuming you only have a test light, try the following tests (all tests are with the connector unplugged).
First, test that you have a good ground at the socket. Connect the test light clip to the positive post of the battery and insert the probe into the pin for the black wire in the headlight connector. The test light should light regardless of headlight switch position. If not, fix the ground.
Second, move the test light clip to the negative post of the battery. (You can use other ground locations but the battery is right next to the right side headlight so it's convenient and certain.) Insert the probe into the connector for the yellow wire. The test light should be on with the headlight switch on regardless of whether you switch to high beam of low beam. It should be off when the headlight switch is off.
Finally, leave the test light clip connected to ground (battery negative) and insert the probe into the connector for the light green wire. The test light should be on when the headlight switch is on and the high beams are selected. It should be off under all other conditions (although it might light dimly if the fog lights are on because they ground through that circuit - best to leave the fog lights off for this testing).
If all tests work as expected, replace the high beam lamp. If not then you'll have to start tracing the source of the problem. Corrosion in the socket is a good candidate. Since the other side still works, you would only have to trace the power wire back to the splice in the harness - a matter of only a few feet.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 01-28-2010 at 08:49 AM.
01-28-2010, 02:52 PM
#6
Staging Lane
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thanks a lot i'll get to it as soon as the weather permits, one more thing the tester i borrowed has a red clip and a black clip... should i do exactly as you instructed? or can i leave them both connected?
i really appreciate your help, thing is i don't know anything about this kinda thing, thanks again
i really appreciate your help, thing is i don't know anything about this kinda thing, thanks again
01-28-2010, 03:30 PM
#7
thanks a lot i'll get to it as soon as the weather permits, one more thing the tester i borrowed has a red clip and a black clip... should i do exactly as you instructed? or can i leave them both connected?
i really appreciate your help, thing is i don't know anything about this kinda thing, thanks again
i really appreciate your help, thing is i don't know anything about this kinda thing, thanks again
If it is a test light with two wires and alligator clips then you can follow the instructions as above except that it will be more difficult to check individual pins in the connector (because the clips are much bigger than the normal probe).
If it is a multimeter then the instructions are somewhat different. You have to set the meter to voltage and connect the red probe to the positive side of the circuit and the black probe to the negative side. Then check for zero volts or something closer to 12 volts to determine if you have power or not.
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05-28-2013, 10:35 AM
#9
Not all manufacturers label their sockets in the same way so you'll either have to test the contacts or use trial-and-error. It is probably safe to assume that the G pin is ground and therefore goes to the black wire.
On a 3157-style socket, the outboard pins on each end are for the bright filament and the two inboard pins are for the dim element. You will find that the inboard and outboard pins at one end of the socket are connected together - those are the ground pins. Use a meter to check which wires the pins at the opposite end go to (use the continuity setting or ohm setting of the meter). The wire connected to the outboard pin of the socket will go to the blue wire and the wire connected to the inboard pin of the socket will go to the brown wire.
If you don't have a meter, you can simply use the trial-and-error method. Put a 3157 or equivalent bulb in the socket, touch the wire connected to the G pin to the ground terminal of your battery, then touch each of the other two wires in turn to the positive terminal. Note which wire lights the dim filament and which lights the bright filament. The dim filament wire connects to the brown wire and the bright filament wire connects to the blue wire.
05-28-2013, 12:50 PM
#10
TECH Enthusiast
I will assume you are talking about the turn signal/DRL sockets rather than the headlight connections that are the subject of this old thread.
Not all manufacturers label their sockets in the same way so you'll either have to test the contacts or use trial-and-error. It is probably safe to assume that the G pin is ground and therefore goes to the black wire.
On a 3157-style socket, the outboard pins on each end are for the bright filament and the two inboard pins are for the dim element. You will find that the inboard and outboard pins at one end of the socket are connected together - those are the ground pins. Use a meter to check which wires the pins at the opposite end go to (use the continuity setting or ohm setting of the meter). The wire connected to the outboard pin of the socket will go to the blue wire and the wire connected to the inboard pin of the socket will go to the brown wire.
If you don't have a meter, you can simply use the trial-and-error method. Put a 3157 or equivalent bulb in the socket, touch the wire connected to the G pin to the ground terminal of your battery, then touch each of the other two wires in turn to the positive terminal. Note which wire lights the dim filament and which lights the bright filament. The dim filament wire connects to the brown wire and the bright filament wire connects to the blue wire.
Not all manufacturers label their sockets in the same way so you'll either have to test the contacts or use trial-and-error. It is probably safe to assume that the G pin is ground and therefore goes to the black wire.
On a 3157-style socket, the outboard pins on each end are for the bright filament and the two inboard pins are for the dim element. You will find that the inboard and outboard pins at one end of the socket are connected together - those are the ground pins. Use a meter to check which wires the pins at the opposite end go to (use the continuity setting or ohm setting of the meter). The wire connected to the outboard pin of the socket will go to the blue wire and the wire connected to the inboard pin of the socket will go to the brown wire.
If you don't have a meter, you can simply use the trial-and-error method. Put a 3157 or equivalent bulb in the socket, touch the wire connected to the G pin to the ground terminal of your battery, then touch each of the other two wires in turn to the positive terminal. Note which wire lights the dim filament and which lights the bright filament. The dim filament wire connects to the brown wire and the bright filament wire connects to the blue wire.
