matts22

iTrader: (2)

I want to get an ASP underdrive pulley in the near future and I'm also considering a HO alternator if needed. I'd like some advice on whether I should get an overdrive alternator pulley, HO alternator, etc. My car is an M6 and is a daily driver.

I've got a new complete system on the way from Ian at Kee Audio:

JVC KD-AVX44 Headunit
CDT E61-CV - powered by stock monsoon amp
Bazooka's for Sail Panels - powered by stock monsoon amp
Pioneer GMD7400 Amp (400W RMS)
CDT HD-10 Sub (400W RMS...maybe 500...can't remember)

I'm also running HID headlights and because my other battery is dieing, I recently purchased an Optima Yellowtop battery from Autozone ($135 after rebate!) but have not installed it yet. It is the D34-78 version.

Should I get a HO alternator (and upgrade the stock power cables)?
Should I get the overdrive alternator pulley?
Both?

I just want to make sure that I will have zero issues running the new system.

Thanks!

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Anyone?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It never hurts to upgrade the alternator but your system setup shouldn't require it. HIDs actually draw less power than standard halogen headlights except during startup and you amp isn't enough to overwhelm the stock charging system. On the other hand, I've found that having the A/C on with lights and wipers in stop-and-go traffic (happens often here in Florida) can be enough to drop voltage with the stock alternator so I figured replacing the alternator was a good idea even without counting an audio system.

I suggest you try it first without upgrading and see how it goes.

SCREAMIN01SS

I don't know about everyone else but I'm not comfortable with changing the pully on a stock alternator to make it produce more than it was designed for. I just finished a install of a alterstart load boss 200 amp alternator with the big 3 upgrade. I could not be more happy. You can get the alternator off of ebay for like $235.00 ant its ships super quick. I used 2 gauge cables from Autozone for the upgrade. pm me if you need more details!!!!

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice guys! I guess I'll just see what happens when I get everything hooked up.

SCREAMIN01SS - I might be in touch with you in the near future, but changing the alternator pulley is just to balance out the underdrive pulley so that it produces stock amperage. You only make it produce less than stock if you DON'T change the alternator pulley.

pentavolvo

IMO no need for either, i would do the Big3 and you should be beyond set

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

We sell the overdrive Alt pulleys, (billet Alum) for $69 plus $10 S&H if you want to go that route.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

You would not be overdriving the alternator with a 25% UD Crank Pulley and an overdrive alternator pulley. The crank pulley is already going to reduce the rotation of the alternator by 25% and the OD alternator pulley will help increase its rotation but it still wont be spinning as much as it did with the stock crank and stock alternator pulleys. 25% UD Crank + 15% OD alternator and the alternator will still be underdriven by 13.75%
(1-.25)*(1+.15).

dragonrage

Don't bother with CDT for a subwoofer. Go Fi or Dayton Reference. Also, cut your sails completely with a good subwoofer in the back, ESPECIALLY when you're considering entry-level drivers like the Bazookas.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

if you keep the sail panels, which might be a good idea because they are responsible for midbass, use the high-pass filter on the heaunit to send only frequencies above 80Hz or 120Hz to the front and rear speakers and everything below those frequencies will be played by the subwoofer (set the low-pass filter accordingly on your amplifier). Not sure how low the front speakers play but for example if the monsoon amp only sends signals above 200Hz to the front speakers and you remove the sail panels, and have the subwoofer set to 80 or 120Hz you will basically be missing the 120-200Hz range (they will be there but attenuated a good deal). I have more experience setting up home theater and the rule is to set the subwoofer to play below 120Hz with 80Hz and lower being the standard, once you get at or above 120Hz you start to hear some voice (very deep, muffled voice) but that might not be much of a problem with music and more of a problem with movies.
The best thing to do is play around with it all, everything hooked up with HPF on HU set to 120Hz and sub amp set to 120Hz, then start playing with the filters and disconnecting speakers (sails and/or hatch) until you get something you like.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys... the OP already has his selected equipment on the way, he's going to be running everything except the sub off the stock Monsoon amp (with its built-in filtering), and he was only asking about charging system requirements.

Let's try to stay on topic.

dragonrage

Just trying to help him get the right equipment while he still has a chance to return the wrong equipment.

A 2000 SS in Jersey

iTrader: (4)

I asked pretty about the same issues just today. I got an answer hope this helps you as much as it did me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by A 2000 SS in Jersey
Stupid question
I understand the principle of underdrive...........butttt.
Does this pulley drop the speed of everything by 25%?
Alternator, power steering, AC.??? I assume yes, but assuming gets me in trouble.
If so, any negativee effect on perfomance? Such as lower Battery volatge, worried about PCM getting full voltage and such? Ac and or power steering. And the big one!!!!!!!!
How much power are we talking about......... Extra to my BUTTT..LOL
Thanks

The answer I got was:

"You really need to do a search."

The author was:

matts22
TECH Fanatic

matts22

iTrader: (2)

My thread is about a HO alternator, your thread is about an underdrive pulley. BIG DIFFERENCE.