rgjr9852

who offers the best rear sway bar for the price? I am going to remove the front sway bar and I want a big rear sway bar. Car is mostly for street racing and sees the track maybe 3 times a year.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

We have plenty of cars with sub 1.30 60ft times and our extreme swaybar. Pretty much like you are wanting, extreme on the back, no front. They come out of the hole straight and level. Maybe some others will chime in and help with info on others.

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

I hope you don't plan on taking any turns when you are "street" racing. The oversteer with such a setup would be rediculous. The BMR extreme bar is an excellent peice for drag racing. Strano's hollow 22 is perfect when matched with a 35mm front if you want the car to actually handle properly. My beleife is that if you drive the car on the street you should set it up to at least handle decently, you never know when an emergency situation will arise that requires the car to be somewhat nimble. Unless you have an all out drag car you won't gain much by ditching the front bar and until you are at fairly high tq/hp #'s you probably don't need an extreme swaybar. Why do you think you need one? Are you not launching straight or something?

rgjr9852

I am leaving strait just fine, but I want the Front end to come up more on a launch by taking off the front. I run 12.5 1/4 miles with a 1.6" now, This summer I am just redoing my suspension and thought it would be better to have no sway bar in the front and a big sway bar in the rear. Not sure if this is the greatest idea, thats why i need your help.

pmbmax

I still run a bmr on my car with no front. works fine

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

Well the stock front bars are hollow so they don't really weigh enough to bother taking off IMO. If you are leaving straight with a 19mm stock rear bar then there isn't much reason to upgrade it as far as the drag stip is concerned. I personally enjoy being able to take corners in my car and I use it as my DD so I don't really get why anyone would sacrifise a **** ton of handling for minimal gains in the 1/4 mile by removing the front bar unless the car was going to be dragged more than streeted. What do you have done to the suspension thus far? What are your goals for the car?

rgjr9852

I have QA1 drag struts in the front with a 300 lbs spring, Comp. engineering shocks in the rear, UMI lower control arms with relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable torque arm with a relocation mount. My main goal is to hook on the street on a 17' nitto,I have a 3200 stall and could not hook on the street at all for some reason, during a race I didnt even stall it up. so I just want it to bite the road on a launch and take off, I just ordered all my suspension, its sitting in my room and waiting for the weather to get warmer, the sway bar is the last thing I'm dealing with for suspension. So if it will not help any by taking it off and buying a big rear sway bar. then I will save the money and put it somewhere else. whats your opinion?

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

kinda just wasting your money as tpunk said, invest in a M/T radial and that will fix your problem, I will say the rear extreme bar does help handling to a POINT! then you get rediculous overstreer lol

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

If you ever get any wheel hope then you will want to get a set of LCA's. If you are going to take care of them then get rod ends, if not then look at the J&M's or if BMR still sells them their LCA's with rubber bushings. A shorter torque arm will help with weight transfer, but you should really get some 3 peice SFC's to brace that area as it is a bit weak to be placing that much stress without it. When you need new tires get some MT-ET Streets as SuperSlow02 just said. They are much better DR's than the nittos. You have already decreased your handling a lot, but I'd still recommend keeping the sways so as to not make it much worse. Even though they aren't as well matched to your suspension as they use to be. You won't gain much at this point by getting a larger rear sway bar from what you have said so far though. Hope that helps.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I think running some bar I sell is the best solution? Why? Because I offer choices. I have a Hollow 22 which is about 30% stiffer than the stock 19, and lighter. I can also sell you a Hollow 25mm bar which most folks don't know (I find it too stiff for handling, but some want that much rear bar and it's still lighter). I also have 3-position adjustable rear bars from Hellwing that allow you to change how stiff the rear bar is. They are not hollow, but available in both 22mm and 25mm (7/8" and 1" respectively).

The 22 Adjustable is on my website. It's $249. It's a cool thing because it allows a not too stiff setup for handling, but also to firm it way up for launching if you wish. And you can even adjust the links for pre-load since they are adjustable for length.

Nobody offers the variety of bars I do. I have hollow and solid. Various sizes, and various styles.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

Hey Sam, I was at the strip today with the new 9" and could not hook for **** and had BAD wheel hop. Car has some suspenison (2pt subframes, front Single adj,. shocks/275 lb spring, Adj torque arm, Adj. LCAS and Adj. panhard) and IS NOT a DD. Im on the stock rear bar and Nittos. When you get a minute please Pm me with any tips,info etc..,. for dialing my car in. I took the front sawy bar off when I got home from the track because the car was not transfering wieght at all it seemed.