Socket to hold the stem stationary while the nut is removed on the shock absorber??
#1
Socket to hold the stem stationary while the nut is removed on the shock absorber??
I found one that says it will fit GM X and J body cars cant find one for a f body. will the socket for the x and j work on my 97 camaro front shocks?
#4
TECH Addict
A deep offset wrench for the nut, plus an adjustable (or whatever) for the flat?
Also, the next time I change them, if they are rusty, they are going to sit in a bucket of evaporust for a while. I used it for some stuff on my truck, works well. Autozone has it.
Last resort, if you're changing your shocks, vice grips on the shaft of the shock. Don't do this if you're just changing your springs or something or otherwise plan to reuse/sell the shock. Just keep in mind that the dust boot thing costs money to replace.
Also, the next time I change them, if they are rusty, they are going to sit in a bucket of evaporust for a while. I used it for some stuff on my truck, works well. Autozone has it.
Last resort, if you're changing your shocks, vice grips on the shaft of the shock. Don't do this if you're just changing your springs or something or otherwise plan to reuse/sell the shock. Just keep in mind that the dust boot thing costs money to replace.
#5
TECH Resident
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If putting on a new Koni what is the best way to hold the shaft without tearing the new shock up? I've heard the nut that Koni sends can be a pain to get on without spinning the shaft.
#6
TECH Addict
Does the Koni shaft have a wrench flat or a hex [insert]? If the latter then you use a socket with a wrench flat on the outside, put the socket over the nut, turn it with a wrench. You put a small socket or a hex key down through the socket opening.
Or you can use the offset wrench.
Sometimes using power tools will get the job done, like spin the nut faster than the shaft can keep up, making progress. You might have to finish it off with one of the above methods though.
Or you can use the offset wrench.
Sometimes using power tools will get the job done, like spin the nut faster than the shaft can keep up, making progress. You might have to finish it off with one of the above methods though.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For re-install I use a stainless steel nut and never worry about rust again.
The strap wrench is awesome for the Koni re-install cause you can grab the top hat and hold it securely. I don't like using the flats, they are too darn small and I know I'll just round them off.
The strap wrench is awesome for the Koni re-install cause you can grab the top hat and hold it securely. I don't like using the flats, they are too darn small and I know I'll just round them off.
#10
TECH Resident
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For re-install I use a stainless steel nut and never worry about rust again.
The strap wrench is awesome for the Koni re-install cause you can grab the top hat and hold it securely. I don't like using the flats, they are too darn small and I know I'll just round them off.
The strap wrench is awesome for the Koni re-install cause you can grab the top hat and hold it securely. I don't like using the flats, they are too darn small and I know I'll just round them off.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
I find that one good trick for rusty stuff is, tighten
before you try to loosen. Just a fraction of a turn
can break the stiction / rust bind. And if you slip
and round the nut it will be in the direction that
you didn't really mean to go.
before you try to loosen. Just a fraction of a turn
can break the stiction / rust bind. And if you slip
and round the nut it will be in the direction that
you didn't really mean to go.