New shock and spring and LCA kit any advice to install.
#1
New shock and spring and LCA kit any advice to install.
The guy ( His name is Young I think ) at Byuspeed recomment me this kit.
SLP Bilstein Shocks & Eibach Springs
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1075
UMI Performance "On Car" Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ Polyurethane Bushings
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...09b7173b77d2b8
UMI Performance Tubular Non-Adjustable Lower Control Arms
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=2099
My car currently have every thing stock with 134k miles, will im happy with this kit for DD ? any tips to install these part ? do I need grease ? thanks
SLP Bilstein Shocks & Eibach Springs
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1075
UMI Performance "On Car" Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ Polyurethane Bushings
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...09b7173b77d2b8
UMI Performance Tubular Non-Adjustable Lower Control Arms
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=2099
My car currently have every thing stock with 134k miles, will im happy with this kit for DD ? any tips to install these part ? do I need grease ? thanks
#3
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^^ +1 Agree. I used non sponsor LCA with ball bushing. They're sponsor on some other site. They're also cheaper.
For the shocks, if you wanna go Bilstein then you should buy from Sam Strano. I only recommend Koni tho.
For the shocks, if you wanna go Bilstein then you should buy from Sam Strano. I only recommend Koni tho.
Last edited by Major_Lee_Slow; 06-25-2009 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Link to "other" site.
#5
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For the shocks and springs, just follow the torque recommendations in the Chilton's. If not, Good and Tight will do. Also, take care when removing the upper shock mounts and isolators. The Nuts, especially the passenger side, get corroded badly and may require being cut off. The key is to salvage the Shock MOUNT and not the shock. You need the factory pieces unless you want to have problems or have to buy new ones from the dealer. If you go to LS1Techhowto.com, there is a good write up on how to do it. There a whole bunch of other ones listed here too.
For the Adj PH rod, I just did that and it was a piece of cake. Used a rubber hammer to tap the ends in after they were greased per instructions and had no issues. Alllowed me to re-recenter the rear after the springs were in. I had to move the rear 3/8 inch to one side to make it even.
As far as the control arms, stick with the poly/poly's if you are driving it on the street. A lot of guys get rod ends on one side and poly on the other thinking they get the best of both worlds, what they get is the worst of one, nice in the rod end, and only one poly end in the other.
Unless you think you need that last millisecond in time, just stay with poly. You won't regret it.
Good Luck. I think I took my front apart at least 3 times before I had it absolutely correct, and that's okay, because that's how we learn.
For the Adj PH rod, I just did that and it was a piece of cake. Used a rubber hammer to tap the ends in after they were greased per instructions and had no issues. Alllowed me to re-recenter the rear after the springs were in. I had to move the rear 3/8 inch to one side to make it even.
As far as the control arms, stick with the poly/poly's if you are driving it on the street. A lot of guys get rod ends on one side and poly on the other thinking they get the best of both worlds, what they get is the worst of one, nice in the rod end, and only one poly end in the other.
Unless you think you need that last millisecond in time, just stay with poly. You won't regret it.
Good Luck. I think I took my front apart at least 3 times before I had it absolutely correct, and that's okay, because that's how we learn.
#6
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Again good luck.
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call sam strano, he knows his stuff, is honest, will work with you and won't oversell you.
My recommendation is his springs, koni 4/3s, UMI adjustable PHB, and adjust umi rod/poly or poly/poly lcas.
My recommendation is his springs, koni 4/3s, UMI adjustable PHB, and adjust umi rod/poly or poly/poly lcas.
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#11
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But then that begs the question, did he know what he was doing? Seems to me anyone worth their salt would charge more than that. Unless he was doing it as a favorable rate for a friend, which this could very well be.
Just my .02
But, If you have concerns about what kind of work he did, take it to a different shop, someone you trust, and have them look it over and make sure it's all good. It may cost 30-40 bucks for them to look at it, but at least you'll know for sure.
I don't know, my gut tells me that there is a piece of information missing here somehow....somewhere...
Who knows?
#12
If you were only charged $150 to install the shocks, springs, and LCA's, you got one hell of a deal.
But then that begs the question, did he know what he was doing? Seems to me anyone worth their salt would charge more than that. Unless he was doing it as a favorable rate for a friend, which this could very well be.
Just my .02
But, If you have concerns about what kind of work he did, take it to a different shop, someone you trust, and have them look it over and make sure it's all good. It may cost 30-40 bucks for them to look at it, but at least you'll know for sure.
I don't know, my gut tells me that there is a piece of information missing here somehow....somewhere...
Who knows?
But then that begs the question, did he know what he was doing? Seems to me anyone worth their salt would charge more than that. Unless he was doing it as a favorable rate for a friend, which this could very well be.
Just my .02
But, If you have concerns about what kind of work he did, take it to a different shop, someone you trust, and have them look it over and make sure it's all good. It may cost 30-40 bucks for them to look at it, but at least you'll know for sure.
I don't know, my gut tells me that there is a piece of information missing here somehow....somewhere...
Who knows?
#13
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I when I first came his shop, I have to go thru a very bad neightborhood, I was out side his shop waiting for him, firs thing I though out side his shop is, very bad looking place. But as soon he open his garage, OMFG many many car that looking really good. First of all, im not racis, he is black and he work on big car, mostly suspenstion, their about 10 car fit tight in his garage is either cadilac on dub, candy apple red boxer on dub, and many other one. He serious, he told me, " be here at 8:30 exactly and It will be take care by noon ". I bring the car tomorrow.
#14
OMFG !! the nut on top of the shock is rust to hell both !!. I cant event regonize it was a nut their. He have to cut the spring and shock to take what need to be swap out. it was hell Im telling you !! he dont have to take any of the rear plastic panel off, he did cut a little carpet off and do it from their. Any way any thing went smooth, car handle great now. He also told me about he can do LB header and WHAT EVER I WANT TO DO TO THE CAMARO !!!, I did ask him about the fuel pump cut hole thing, and he told me, he rather doing from the bottem then cut a hole. I told him that he had to drop every thing do be able to drop the tank, " he rely " OK no problem " He going to swap out power window tomorrow for $40 buck, He my mechanic from now on, he also cool as hell, he let every body watch him work, and he even tough them do thing that he do, he funny as hell too. Any way, im happy with the service.
#17
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No, the lower control arms will work just fine for you and will not cause any damage. Some people do not like to use and will not use polyurethane bushings because it can cause suspension "bind". However suspension bind is a concern when the vehicle is being raced aggressively such as auto cross, road race ect. For a daily driver I feel you have picked the best option for your car, the polyurethane bushings will be quiet, comfortable and virtually maintenance free. A daily driver will not take the car to its limits where binding is a concern. I also feel the polyurethane ball design is some what of a gimmick and works no different than a regular bushing. We have a spherical bushing in the works now that should be released shortly... that will help eliminate bind but not induce road noise like a road end.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
#18
Hello,
No, the lower control arms will work just fine for you and will not cause any damage. Some people do not like to use and will not use polyurethane bushings because it can cause suspension "bind". However suspension bind is a concern when the vehicle is being raced aggressively such as auto cross, road race ect. For a daily driver I feel you have picked the best option for your car, the polyurethane bushings will be quiet, comfortable and virtually maintenance free. A daily driver will not take the car to its limits where binding is a concern. I also feel the polyurethane ball design is some what of a gimmick and works no different than a regular bushing. We have a spherical bushing in the works now that should be released shortly... that will help eliminate bind but not induce road noise like a road end.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
No, the lower control arms will work just fine for you and will not cause any damage. Some people do not like to use and will not use polyurethane bushings because it can cause suspension "bind". However suspension bind is a concern when the vehicle is being raced aggressively such as auto cross, road race ect. For a daily driver I feel you have picked the best option for your car, the polyurethane bushings will be quiet, comfortable and virtually maintenance free. A daily driver will not take the car to its limits where binding is a concern. I also feel the polyurethane ball design is some what of a gimmick and works no different than a regular bushing. We have a spherical bushing in the works now that should be released shortly... that will help eliminate bind but not induce road noise like a road end.
Hope that helps!
Ryan