LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

I bought a full set of front and rear cts-v calipers. Anyone ever run the rears on an Fbody? Whats needed? Haven't found a write up in the search.

Also, what is the part # for the rotors I need for the fronts and(if possible) rears? (Z06 i assume)

These will be going on my new CCW LM20's on my MWC Fabbed 9":

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...ccw-lm20s.html


Thanks

97camaross

iTrader: (6)

you will find your answer

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

Did you miss my first line? I haven't found anything on the rears in the search, only the fronts.

97camaross

iTrader: (6)

oh well i thought i saw some a while back maybe like 4 months ago but im not sure

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

On posts I've seen they don't talk about fitting rears. I need to know rotors for the rear and if spacers are required, etc.

Killer_Z

iTrader: (1)

There's some people that are looking at matching up the rears with or rotors that way we can keep the parking brake. But as far as some one to have done it already? No unless they don't post on forums. Alot of the reason y it hasn't been done is time constraints and down time. I'm sure it can be done with the proper bracket.

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

I have a set of rear calipers with my front cts-v's so maybe I'll give it a try. Camaro is my second car.

08 848

iTrader: (3)

I think it was tried in the sticky post, can't remember all of the detail but it didn't look good. I think Tobin at KORE3 was or is working on something with the cts-v rear. Hope that helps

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

Hey, i have the front cts-v's and already tried doing the rears. it will not work without very complicated bracketry. for the money it would cost you to get it working, it would not be worth it IMO

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

I'll just have to make it work I guess. haha.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Getting it to work? That depends on what one means by that.

AFA fitting, with the appropriate design it can and I have made them fit.

AFA working well, beware... not only will you shift too much braking bias to the rear, you will also induce some nasty pad knockback as well (even if you're no longer running a c-clip axle).

I know because I've been through the whole deal. I ignored what Stoptech and Brembo warned me and discovered exactly what they were warning me about. NOT fun at all.

I have experienced this with the CTS-V, C6 Z06, and several other "solid" calipers.

Nightrydass

what is this? i have been following some of these threads and this terms pops up a few times.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

It's when there's enough forces in cornering to make the rotor and it's respectively connected components deflect enough to knock the pads and their respective pistons back inside their bores. This results in the pedal momentarily going to the floor as if there's "no brakes." This happens much more in cornering whilst almost never occuring in a straight line brake scenario.

May not sound like much, but you'll know it when you get it, and it's NOT fun at all. With that stated, there's really no brake setup that's free from knockback. Just depends on what the overall axle components are being used.

Remember, there's no such thing as a free lunch. The end game is to stop the vehicle in the most reliable and consistent manner and the parameters required aren't with those fancy modifications like lots of people like to think.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Not very accurate information. Pad knockback is an issue that results from worn components, such as worn bearings (non-c-clip axles), worn differential side gears (or limited slip diff), or worn c-clip grooves in the axle end. In an axle that is in good working condition, pad knockback will not be an issue whether you have fixed or floating calipers. If it was, cars such as F-bodies and Mustangs would have pad knockback issues even when new. Every rear has a spec for the amount of play allowed in the inward to outward movement of the axle, and the amount that is considered in spec is not enough to cause a pad knockback condition.

My car experiences pad knockback during hard cornering because my driver's side axle has excessive play due to worn clutch cones in my auburn differential. In the worst case, the pedal will drop a few inches below normal after a hard left turn, and then recover upon releasing and pushing the brake pedal one time. The pedal has never gone to the floor, and the freeplay in the axle is probably about 3 times the allowable spec.

All that being said, pad knockback is condition typically caused by worn wheel end components. It was a prevelent issue with front brakes back when cars used to use adjustable inner/outer wheel bearings, but with the advent of hub assemblies, its all but unheard of. As for the rear brakes, as I said, a properly functioning rear axle should not cause any pad knockback noticeable by the driver.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Whats so complicated about the bracketry?? Basically all that is required is an adaptor plate to space the CTS-V caliper properly over the stock 12" F-body rear rotors in terms of diameter and depth.

If someone could take some measurements and create the proper bracket, the rear calipers should basically be a bolt on.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

It has happened on my bearing based axles on both my 9" as well as my 12-bolt. I still have them. And yes, it has gone all the way to the floor on several occasions. My components were less then 100 miles before well being broken in. Also my rear differentials were T2 Torsens (or their equivalents). This has occured on several cars on with the same or nearly similar axle configurations on turns over 1.0 G's with adequately tyre compounds. It's the dynamics that a SRA can exhibit over turns due to it's placement of the unsprung masses.

I'd say in my case and those others, it's very accurate, because the hydraulic system must be accounted for as well. Bearings and other driveline tolerances are only the beginning. Even on the most sophisticated SLA independent rear suspsension, pad knockback can occur as well, however the forces that can be applied to the bearings, hub, and the rotor itself is greatly eliminated through the use of CV joints as well as weight of the differential being sprung. With that stated, there's some loss of RWP and RWT, but that's a compromise that I would deal with.

Last I talked to the Stoptech and Brembo engineers, they confirmed that even though having solid calipers are beneficial, they take away some of the needed deflection that floating calipers can deal with those concerns, which is why there can be a benefit to having a solid caliper, but when the deflection is taken away in one area, it doesn't mean that it's completely eliminated.

Yes, one should replace the C-clips and preferably use a differential for cornering (e.g. Torsen T2, and the like), but that still may not solve the problem. In my case, the 10-bolt had the least amount with Bearing replacements as well as a Torsen rear diff, but the least amount of pad knockback resulted with sticking with stock floating calipers.

I'd say that I was pretty darn thorough and accurate in my findings.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

are the rears 4 piston or 2 piston calipers on the cts v

pheer

iTrader: (3)

i didnt bother to read the entire thread....

i remember a couple months ago someone saying they accidentally bought the rears instead of the fronts and tried several different things to make them work on the rear, but with no success... my .02$

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

yep.

It's not as straight forward simple retrofit as some would have to believe. It can be done, but AFA using the exact same rotor and some of the other hardware? good luck.

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

Well, I've got some good resources in terms of CAD and machining equipment so I will have to look at everything once the car gets to that point. I understand all of the points made though. 1 question: Do we have a proportioning valve stock in the car or is that something I'm going to have to add?