Got my hands on some nice LS1 brakes! (pics) Now to upgrade
10-28-2010, 06:40 PM
#1
Got my hands on some nice LS1 brakes! (pics) Now to upgrade Got both sides for a steal and they're in pretty awesome condition! A little polishing should make the calipers shine nice!
BAER eradispeed rotors? Does anyone have lighter rotors without the crossdrilling?
1. Powdercoat the spindle?
2. Which brakeline upgrade? Ditching the ABS
3. Is that ABS sensor in the middle of the hub removable? That is an ABS sensor right?
4. Brake pads of choice?
BAER eradispeed rotors? Does anyone have lighter rotors without the crossdrilling?
1. Powdercoat the spindle?
2. Which brakeline upgrade? Ditching the ABS
3. Is that ABS sensor in the middle of the hub removable? That is an ABS sensor right?
4. Brake pads of choice?
10-28-2010, 10:31 PM
#2
brakes are a Great upgrade for lt1 cars..
Talk to sam strano (www.stranoparts.com) about rotors and brakes. im quite confident that he'll hook you up just right.
1)powder coat the spindle and caliper
2)talk to sam
3) dont think so. just leave the cable unplugged.
4) same as #2
hope that helped
Talk to sam strano (www.stranoparts.com) about rotors and brakes. im quite confident that he'll hook you up just right.
1)powder coat the spindle and caliper
2)talk to sam
3) dont think so. just leave the cable unplugged.
4) same as #2
hope that helped
10-29-2010, 09:23 AM
#3
brakes are a Great upgrade for lt1 cars..
Talk to sam strano (www.stranoparts.com) about rotors and brakes. im quite confident that he'll hook you up just right.
1)powder coat the spindle and caliper
2)talk to sam
3) dont think so. just leave the cable unplugged.
4) same as #2
hope that helped
Talk to sam strano (www.stranoparts.com) about rotors and brakes. im quite confident that he'll hook you up just right.
1)powder coat the spindle and caliper
2)talk to sam
3) dont think so. just leave the cable unplugged.
4) same as #2
hope that helped
Was looking at Sam's website. Some hardcore stuff there. Maybe I'll just take a ride to Advanced Auto and just get the rotors cut and get some decent pads.
10-29-2010, 10:01 AM
#4
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Pads are hard to recommend due to various driving conditions and what you want to do.
I run Hawk HP+ but it's hard for me to recommend them since they are noisy and dust a ton. For most ppl, I recommend the Hawk HPS. I run the more agressive pad b/c I austocross and drive agressivly on back country roads so I like the added stopping power with less fade.
I'm switching to a dedicated track pad in the future. I did one track even on HP+s and they fade quick stopping dozens of times from 135+ mph.
Why do you want to remove ABS? that's a wheel speed sensor btw. I love ABS b/c I'm that hard on the brakes.
I run Hawk HP+ but it's hard for me to recommend them since they are noisy and dust a ton. For most ppl, I recommend the Hawk HPS. I run the more agressive pad b/c I austocross and drive agressivly on back country roads so I like the added stopping power with less fade.
I'm switching to a dedicated track pad in the future. I did one track even on HP+s and they fade quick stopping dozens of times from 135+ mph.
Why do you want to remove ABS? that's a wheel speed sensor btw. I love ABS b/c I'm that hard on the brakes.
10-29-2010, 10:29 AM
#6
Pads are hard to recommend due to various driving conditions and what you want to do.
I run Hawk HP+ but it's hard for me to recommend them since they are noisy and dust a ton. For most ppl, I recommend the Hawk HPS. I run the more agressive pad b/c I austocross and drive agressivly on back country roads so I like the added stopping power with less fade.
I'm switching to a dedicated track pad in the future. I did one track even on HP+s and they fade quick stopping dozens of times from 135+ mph.
Why do you want to remove ABS? that's a wheel speed sensor btw. I love ABS b/c I'm that hard on the brakes.
I run Hawk HP+ but it's hard for me to recommend them since they are noisy and dust a ton. For most ppl, I recommend the Hawk HPS. I run the more agressive pad b/c I austocross and drive agressivly on back country roads so I like the added stopping power with less fade.
I'm switching to a dedicated track pad in the future. I did one track even on HP+s and they fade quick stopping dozens of times from 135+ mph.
Why do you want to remove ABS? that's a wheel speed sensor btw. I love ABS b/c I'm that hard on the brakes.
Why remove the ABS? Weight reduction. And with the short distances I travel not necessary.
Speed sensors part of the ABS, correct?
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10-29-2010, 04:33 PM
#8
How well does powdercoating hold up on the calipers? It just seems that other than looks there seems to be no point.
Was looking at Sam's website. Some hardcore stuff there. Maybe I'll just take a ride to Advanced Auto and just get the rotors cut and get some decent pads.
Was looking at Sam's website. Some hardcore stuff there. Maybe I'll just take a ride to Advanced Auto and just get the rotors cut and get some decent pads.
I also have good quality stuff that's not so "hardcore". I think maybe you are missing something (part of the problem with internet only research).
I have a variety of rotors and pads. Starting as low as $50 each. Hell the Racing Brake Rotors are great and on sale for $100 each. Hawk HPS pads are $87 for the front set. If you want less expensive I can do that too--but it's a pretty classic "get what you pay for" thing.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-29-2010, 07:59 PM
#9
I recently determined that the LT1 master cylinder is different than the LS1 MC. The LS1 MC valving is more restrictive on the rear lines due to the lack of heavy recoil springs like what is on the LT1 rear calipers. The LT1 MC makes a very mushy pedal with the conversion. The LS1 MC made for a much better pedal.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
10-29-2010, 08:57 PM
#11
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I recently determined that the LT1 master cylinder is different than the LS1 MC. The LS1 MC valving is more restrictive on the rear lines due to the lack of heavy recoil springs like what is on the LT1 rear calipers. The LT1 MC makes a very mushy pedal with the conversion. The LS1 MC made for a much better pedal.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
10-29-2010, 09:07 PM
#14
I recently determined that the LT1 master cylinder is different than the LS1 MC. The LS1 MC valving is more restrictive on the rear lines due to the lack of heavy recoil springs like what is on the LT1 rear calipers. The LT1 MC makes a very mushy pedal with the conversion. The LS1 MC made for a much better pedal.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
And yes powder coat holds up very well on calipers. I did mine in Chevy red.
10-29-2010, 09:18 PM
#15
I also have good quality stuff that's not so "hardcore". I think maybe you are missing something (part of the problem with internet only research).
I have a variety of rotors and pads. Starting as low as $50 each. Hell the Racing Brake Rotors are great and on sale for $100 each. Hawk HPS pads are $87 for the front set. If you want less expensive I can do that too--but it's a pretty classic "get what you pay for" thing.
I have a variety of rotors and pads. Starting as low as $50 each. Hell the Racing Brake Rotors are great and on sale for $100 each. Hawk HPS pads are $87 for the front set. If you want less expensive I can do that too--but it's a pretty classic "get what you pay for" thing.
10-30-2010, 08:14 AM
#17
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I finnally got around around to upgrading to 98+ fronts with slotted/crossdrilled rotors this summer and wow what a difference over my stock brakes. Great mod. I just painted the caliper red with VHT paint, came out really nice and holding up well. Havent been able to find VHT clear yet, seems to always be out of stock at parts stores.
11-01-2010, 02:01 PM
#19
The absolute BEST brake pedal I've ever had in a 4th gen was a '95 car with LS1 fronts (and no MC change).... I'd not bother changing it--been in a lot of LT1's with the LS1 fronts on and no MC change and they've all stopped just as I'd expect and no worse than any real LS1.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
11-01-2010, 06:53 PM
#20
The absolute BEST brake pedal I've ever had in a 4th gen was a '95 car with LS1 fronts (and no MC change).... I'd not bother changing it--been in a lot of LT1's with the LS1 fronts on and no MC change and they've all stopped just as I'd expect and no worse than any real LS1.
