Must haves for proper lowering - LS1TECH

Go Back   LS1TECH > CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, APPEARANCE > Suspension & Brakes
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Suspension & Brakes
Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors
Sponsored by
Weld Racing


Must haves for proper lowering

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-17-2011, 12:03 AM   #1
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 171
Default Must haves for proper lowering

Hey guys I was just wondering what you have to have to do a proper lowering. I've done some research and found that that you need springs, shocks and the panhard bar. Is there anything else that you have to have besides the alignment after? Do I need different control arms or anything else? I'm looking for either a 1" to 1.25 drop. I'm just looking for a street car. Also how do you adjust the panhard bar? I've never messed with one and don't know what I'm looking for. Is this something the technician that does the aligment does? Also one more thing. Is it better to get wheels and tires first or buy them after? Sorry for so many questions. I'm still learning with these cars.
BradsLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 02:50 AM   #2
TECH Regular
 
Trader Rating: 2
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 418
Default

People often suggest Lower control arm relocation brackets because lowering will make the control arms sit at a different angle, making wheel hop more of a problem. If its just a street car you might not care though.

The panhard bar is an adjustable one. Either single adjustable or double adjustable. Single you need to take at least one end off to adjust it, and double you can adjust it on the car. The stock one cannot be adjusted.

as far as wheels and tires before or , I dont think it matters but im not sure
__________________
:p '95 Trans Am LT1, white with black racing stripe
K&N CAI, Flowmaster exhaust, Grantelli Elbow, Honeycomb taillights, rebuilt 4L60E
CarPC with 9.2" touchscreen, GPS, bluetooth, iTunes and Internet
FQuick: http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=13868
rbaksi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 04:03 AM   #3
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 171
Default

When it comes to the panhard bar, I guess the question I was asking is not how it adjusts. Is there a presice measurement like alignments. Can I do it myself and what am I looking for when it's right?
BradsLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 04:46 AM   #4
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 136
Default

Panhard bar or watts link centers the rear end under the car. You will also want to put on an adjustable torque arm to adjust the angle at which the rear end aligns with the transmission.
Fbodyfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 02:20 PM   #5
11 Second Club
 
SS SLP2's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 8
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SILSBEE TX
Posts: 1,787
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BradsLS1 View Post
When it comes to the panhard bar, I guess the question I was asking is not how it adjusts. Is there a presice measurement like alignments. Can I do it myself and what am I looking for when it's right?
the adjustable panhard bar is needed to center the rear under the car after lowering, measurement should be did with the suspition load ( weight on the wheels) tie a weight/bolt/nut/anything on a string and suspent the weight just above the ground, tape the string to fender above the center of wheel then measure from the string to the wheel/tire adjust the adjustable pan hard bar untill equal on both sides
good luck,Johnny
__________________
Y2K SS (SLP #239)
Black , T-tops, A4, NA, Race weigh 3747#
Completly STOCK heads/bore/stroke/weight
& NOTHING else ------is stock
"NAW-NAW- just a Sunday goto meeting car,my best time is not in the 12's- any more"
I am NOT soliciting as I have retired
>>align info: http://www.jgruggles.com
SS SLP2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 02:24 PM   #6
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 171
Default

Thanks that makes sense.
BradsLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 05:21 PM   #7
TECH Fanatic
 
TheBlueKnight's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 4
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nevada
Posts: 1,974
Send a message via Yahoo to TheBlueKnight
Default

When I got my stranos and konis I didn't need a panhard bar. The rear shifted so slightly it could barely be measured. Different cars will have different tolerances, but most need a panhard bar, I just lucked out.
TheBlueKnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2011, 06:16 PM   #8
TECH Fanatic
 
KevinR's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Euless Tx
Posts: 1,219
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BradsLS1 View Post
Hey guys I was just wondering what you have to have to do a proper lowering. I've done some research and found that that you need springs, shocks and the panhard bar. Is there anything else that you have to have besides the alignment after? Do I need different control arms or anything else? I'm looking for either a 1" to 1.25 drop. I'm just looking for a street car. Also how do you adjust the panhard bar? I've never messed with one and don't know what I'm looking for. Is this something the technician that does the aligment does? Also one more thing. Is it better to get wheels and tires first or buy them after? Sorry for so many questions. I'm still learning with these cars.
You'll also need a spring compressor for the front.
__________________
2001 SOM Camaro (SOLD)
Fasttoys 85mm Lid, Fasttoys ram air, Pacesetter lt's, Custom x-pipe no cats, SY3500 (restalled to 3800), RapTR cam 236/242 617/613 111, Patriot Extreme springs w/titanium retainers, Ls7 lifters, 7.425 pushrods, Comp double roller timing chain, relocation brackets, lca's (That about sums it up)
KevinR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2011, 01:34 PM   #9
TECH Enthusiast
 
rabbit320's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 11
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: St Petersburg, FL
Posts: 710
Default

i know bmr makes a single adjustable panhard that can be adjusted without taking it off the car. its simple to adjust yourself, just take out the stock one, measure it up to the new one, and twist it to match length. (it boggled me at first with a double ended thread adjuster, but play with it and you'll see how it moves) i do wish i got one that was not poly/poly though, as panhard moves more than lca's, id do poly and one end rod or roto or whatever. lca's are not necessary, but will give you better traction and feel so id put them on the future list. the relo brackets i would recommend, as well as a good shocks on the rear before the fronts. also think about if you have long tube headers / what kind of exhaust you have or plan to have for ground clearance. i have them and its possible, just takes some learning to drive. ive been fine as a dd without an aftermarket torque arm, but just bought one and im sure it will help. and check your rubber pads that help when you bottom out, because you will do it more often lowered, and possibly replace them with the jeep part on here (thread search). wheels may or may not help with your height clearance, and if it doesnt fit at first, they can be made to fit... and enjoy!

anybody: not to hijack, but is there another way to measure true center for the panhard if the car has been rear ended and body panels are probably not aligned properly anymore? somewhere on the diff or suspension?
__________________
2000 v6
2003 C5 50th
2000 Silverado Z71 - bolt on's, work truck
2000 trans am - "Nevermore" 353 hp / 358 tq, int/ext/eng/susp/etc... always working
rabbit320 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2011, 07:33 PM   #10
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 171
Default

Some great info. Why would you suggest one end poly and the other something else? Wouldn't it be better to get both ends the same. Also, is it better to get the single adjustable or the dual? What are the benefits to a dual? I definitely will be running long tubes. I just bought flp headers and a B@B cat back. I want to run 18's all the way around and just use the car for the street. I'm not sure which setup on suspension yet I was thinking maybe the stranos and Koni's but after searching the prices for the shocks and struts might go with the bilsteins and some other spring. I found the bilsteins to be way cheaper. Not sure yet though. Also I want to put one of those front bumper ground effect pieces on. Not sure what it's called. I really like the way they looked on the TA 's just don't know how it will clear after lowering.
BradsLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 08:01 AM   #11
11 Second Club
 
SS SLP2's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 8
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SILSBEE TX
Posts: 1,787
Default

[.[/QUOTE]Why would you suggest one end poly and the other something else? Wouldn't it be better to get both ends the same. Also, is it better to get the single adjustable or the dual? What are the benefits to a dual? I definitely will be running long tubes. I just bought flp headers and a B@B cat back. I want to run 18's all the way around and just use the car for the street. I'm not sure which setup on suspension yet I was thinking maybe the stranos and Koni's but after searching the prices for the shocks and struts might go with the bilsteins and some other spring. I found the bilsteins to be way cheaper. Not sure yet though. Also I want to put one of those front bumper ground effect pieces on. Not sure what it's called. I really like the way they looked on the TA 's just don't know how it will clear after lowering.[.[/QUOTE]

"one end poly and the other something else?"
poly ends do not make noise like rod ends,I suggest poly both ends on a PHB

"single adjustable or the dual"
with the dual you just loose the jam nut and adjust, single you must loose the jam nut AND remove one end from car then adjust then reinstall

"setup on suspension"
more research

"don't know how it will clear after lowering"
not sure
__________________
Y2K SS (SLP #239)
Black , T-tops, A4, NA, Race weigh 3747#
Completly STOCK heads/bore/stroke/weight
& NOTHING else ------is stock
"NAW-NAW- just a Sunday goto meeting car,my best time is not in the 12's- any more"
I am NOT soliciting as I have retired
>>align info: http://www.jgruggles.com
SS SLP2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 10:55 PM   #12
On The Tree
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 171
Default

SLP 2. True poly ends don't make much noise but from what I have been reading they say the poly ends don't allow the suspension to travel freely. If this is true or not I'm not sure. It's just what I've been reading on here. I totally agree that a double end would be better but what rabbit was saying, it sounded like the single end could be adjusted on the car and the double couldn't. Could have just been the way I was reading it though. I definitely like the idea of adjusting it on the car. As far as doing research on the spring shock, strut setup I've been really doing my research. But I'm not sure yet. As far as the front bumper ground effect. Im going to have to do research on that as well. I really appreciate everyones input. It's frustrating at times to go into a project and find out later that you have to get more and more parts for it to be right. I don't mind, it's selling it to the wife. Trying to explain to her why I have to buy more parts when I tell her this is all I need is the hard part
BradsLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 10:55 PM
LS1Tech
Pontiac Firebird




Paid Advertisement
Reply


Tags
lower, ls1tech, needed, properly, suspension


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Service - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - JOBS
Emails & Contact Details