I'm torn...UMI or BMR???
12-12-2011, 06:35 PM
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I'm torn...UMI or BMR??? I am looking to be a lower to mid 11 sec car come spring and I don't know what suspension to get for the rear. I am going to drive this car on the street alot (not DD though). It will see it's fair share of the drag strip throughout the summer as well.
I am trying to get some QA1 R coil overs for the front and QA1 shocks for the rear. I will have LCA relocation brackets as well. For now, I am looking to get a panhard bar and LCA's.
I am running a stock glass 10 bolt and plan on using it till it explodes
Should I stick with single adjustable suspension, or should I go with dual adjustable.
Also, I do not want it to be noisy within a few months. That being said, is it worth it to get rod ends, or poly ends or roto-joints?
BMR...UMI...chime in...seeing price is a factor, do either of you guys have specials going on right now?
Thank you all for your input...
I am trying to get some QA1 R coil overs for the front and QA1 shocks for the rear. I will have LCA relocation brackets as well. For now, I am looking to get a panhard bar and LCA's.
I am running a stock glass 10 bolt and plan on using it till it explodes
Should I stick with single adjustable suspension, or should I go with dual adjustable.
Also, I do not want it to be noisy within a few months. That being said, is it worth it to get rod ends, or poly ends or roto-joints?
BMR...UMI...chime in...seeing price is a factor, do either of you guys have specials going on right now?
Thank you all for your input...
12-12-2011, 08:19 PM
#2
Well, WonBadZ28, it really looks like you've done your homework and have a solid plan.
Single adjustable rear arms function the same as double adjustable from a performance standpoint. Double adjustable have the advantage of on-car adjustment and that saves you time. Single adjustable has a few less components (an adjuster and a jam nut) to keep track of but at the expense of time. As an engineer I have a split opinion of what's better but it's a very fine detail between them. Single adjustables are ultimately more reliable due to less moving parts but double adjustables can provide a finer adjustment - even though we rarely need that. With single adjustable you're limited to the thread pitch distance in half turn increments. Long answer to a short question...
If you're going premium and not noisy in a few months your best bet is Roto-Joints or a poly/Roto combo with realizing you may have to throw some grease at the poly. Rod ends are fun and racy but are basically disposable, premium ones being pretty durable but still not in the league of the Roto-Joint.
We deal QA1 and can help you tune those products until your car is leaving straight and handling great.
As for specials, it's that time of the year. There may be something other than a sleigh on the horizon...
ramey
Single adjustable rear arms function the same as double adjustable from a performance standpoint. Double adjustable have the advantage of on-car adjustment and that saves you time. Single adjustable has a few less components (an adjuster and a jam nut) to keep track of but at the expense of time. As an engineer I have a split opinion of what's better but it's a very fine detail between them. Single adjustables are ultimately more reliable due to less moving parts but double adjustables can provide a finer adjustment - even though we rarely need that. With single adjustable you're limited to the thread pitch distance in half turn increments. Long answer to a short question...
If you're going premium and not noisy in a few months your best bet is Roto-Joints or a poly/Roto combo with realizing you may have to throw some grease at the poly. Rod ends are fun and racy but are basically disposable, premium ones being pretty durable but still not in the league of the Roto-Joint.
We deal QA1 and can help you tune those products until your car is leaving straight and handling great.
As for specials, it's that time of the year. There may be something other than a sleigh on the horizon...
ramey
12-12-2011, 08:42 PM
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Well, WonBadZ28, it really looks like you've done your homework and have a solid plan.
Single adjustable rear arms function the same as double adjustable from a performance standpoint. Double adjustable have the advantage of on-car adjustment and that saves you time. Single adjustable has a few less components (an adjuster and a jam nut) to keep track of but at the expense of time. As an engineer I have a split opinion of what's better but it's a very fine detail between them. Single adjustables are ultimately more reliable due to less moving parts but double adjustables can provide a finer adjustment - even though we rarely need that. With single adjustable you're limited to the thread pitch distance in half turn increments. Long answer to a short question...
If you're going premium and not noisy in a few months your best bet is Roto-Joints or a poly/Roto combo with realizing you may have to throw some grease at the poly. Rod ends are fun and racy but are basically disposable, premium ones being pretty durable but still not in the league of the Roto-Joint.
We deal QA1 and can help you tune those products until your car is leaving straight and handling great.
As for specials, it's that time of the year. There may be something other than a sleigh on the horizon...
ramey
Single adjustable rear arms function the same as double adjustable from a performance standpoint. Double adjustable have the advantage of on-car adjustment and that saves you time. Single adjustable has a few less components (an adjuster and a jam nut) to keep track of but at the expense of time. As an engineer I have a split opinion of what's better but it's a very fine detail between them. Single adjustables are ultimately more reliable due to less moving parts but double adjustables can provide a finer adjustment - even though we rarely need that. With single adjustable you're limited to the thread pitch distance in half turn increments. Long answer to a short question...
If you're going premium and not noisy in a few months your best bet is Roto-Joints or a poly/Roto combo with realizing you may have to throw some grease at the poly. Rod ends are fun and racy but are basically disposable, premium ones being pretty durable but still not in the league of the Roto-Joint.
We deal QA1 and can help you tune those products until your car is leaving straight and handling great.
As for specials, it's that time of the year. There may be something other than a sleigh on the horizon...
ramey
12-12-2011, 09:57 PM
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I went with UMI for all of my suspension parts. LCA, PHB, TA, STB, Sway bars, new hardware and all that. Wasn't disappointed one bit. Everything went in without a problem. Even gave em a call during the installation and they were able to help me out in just a few minutes.
12-12-2011, 10:09 PM
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I have UMI, MWC, BMR and Sam Strano suspension parts. not a single complaint. But i will say, i dont recommend a rod/rod suspension piece other than a panhard for daily street driving. I had my rod/rod LCA's on for about 3 months before taking them off for a poly setup. now im thinking im due to try out those fancy roto-joints.
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12-12-2011, 10:12 PM
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I have UMI, MWC, BMR and Sam Strano suspension parts. not a single complaint. But i will say, i dont recommend a rod/rod suspension piece other than a panhard for daily street driving. I had my rod/rod LCA's on for about 3 months before taking them off for a poly setup. now im thinking im due to try out those fancy roto-joints.
Ahh decisions decisions...
12-13-2011, 09:50 AM
#9
In my opinion rod ends are a little excessive for people looking to go slower than 9-seconds. Hell, we have customers deep into the 9s with all poly bushings. My Camaro was mostly poly and with how much time it spent on the street, I feel I made a great choice, especially since there were never any failures at the track.
We actually don't sell anything for the fourth-gen that is single adjustable. Everything is considered "on-car"/double adjustable, but sometimes it is easier to make adjustments to double adjustable rod-ended parts off the car. Our adjustable panhard PHR002 and adjustable MTCA002 are both easily adjustable on the car, and feature poly bushings on both ends. They should work for you perfectly for your intended goals, and they will be easy to adjust when you go to a different rearend or lower your car.
We’ve been throwing around the possibility of another sale by year’s end, but nothing official yet. I can let you know when I know the details.
- Kevin
We actually don't sell anything for the fourth-gen that is single adjustable. Everything is considered "on-car"/double adjustable, but sometimes it is easier to make adjustments to double adjustable rod-ended parts off the car. Our adjustable panhard PHR002 and adjustable MTCA002 are both easily adjustable on the car, and feature poly bushings on both ends. They should work for you perfectly for your intended goals, and they will be easy to adjust when you go to a different rearend or lower your car.
We’ve been throwing around the possibility of another sale by year’s end, but nothing official yet. I can let you know when I know the details.
- Kevin
12-13-2011, 09:55 AM
#10
You cant really go wrong with UMI, BMR, or MWC. To me its not just about a quality product, its about great customer service, and although I havent had the chance to buy anything from BMR, or MWC (yet) Ive never heard/read a bad thing about either their products or service.
I personally am running UMI Poly/Rod LCAs, and PHR, with their tunnel mounted torque arm, and some bolt in relocation brackets. Maybe its just that Im used to them, or my exhaust is too loud, but Ive been DDing this setup for probably a year + and dont notice any of the clunking or noise people complain about. Going over bumps, or speed bumps the car feels solid. Doesnt squeak, creak, or clunk. I am good about using quality grease on the poly end, and ensure everything is torqued to spec, and have no complaints.
I actually want to swap to a good rod/rod setup, so if anyone wants to trade, let me know before I just end up buying some!
I personally am running UMI Poly/Rod LCAs, and PHR, with their tunnel mounted torque arm, and some bolt in relocation brackets. Maybe its just that Im used to them, or my exhaust is too loud, but Ive been DDing this setup for probably a year + and dont notice any of the clunking or noise people complain about. Going over bumps, or speed bumps the car feels solid. Doesnt squeak, creak, or clunk. I am good about using quality grease on the poly end, and ensure everything is torqued to spec, and have no complaints.
I actually want to swap to a good rod/rod setup, so if anyone wants to trade, let me know before I just end up buying some!
