Are my UMI sfc's welded wrong???
02-08-2012, 09:32 AM
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Are my UMI sfc's welded wrong??? I have a 97 Camaro, with the mods listed in sig. The other day I jacked up the front of my car, and when I let it back down I noticed the front looked like it was up higher than is normal. I confirmed this by placing the jack back under it, and there was a lot more clearance than when I initially jacked it up. The front was up about .5" - .75" more. I put my weight on the front fender and the car groaned (yes, I'm a fatty) as the suspension moved, and when I got off and checked the distance between the SFC and the jack again it was at the normal ride height.
My question: Is the back part of the SFC supposed to be welded where the LCA bolt goes? B/c mine isn't, and I can pinpoint groaning/creaking/popping from those two areas as the suspension loads/unloads.
My question: Is the back part of the SFC supposed to be welded where the LCA bolt goes? B/c mine isn't, and I can pinpoint groaning/creaking/popping from those two areas as the suspension loads/unloads.
02-08-2012, 12:17 PM
#3
post pics it will be the best way to help you. also check this link, it shows where they should be welded to.
http://installuniversity.com/ls1/ins...onnectors.html
http://installuniversity.com/ls1/ins...onnectors.html
02-09-2012, 08:44 AM
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post pics it will be the best way to help you. also check this link, it shows where they should be welded to.
http://installuniversity.com/ls1/ins...onnectors.html
http://installuniversity.com/ls1/ins...onnectors.html
My SFCs are definitely not welded where the LCA bolts in... I'll try to post some pics tonight. Heh, I guess right now I have hybrid weld/bolt-on connectors. 
02-09-2012, 08:55 AM
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...and the geometry of the front a-arms. At normal ride height, the a-arms are parallel to the ground and the wheels are the furthest out, the a-arms drop down at the spindle in the air and the wheels move inward slightly. After jacking, the tires look like the sidewall is rolling over and really thats whats holding the car up a little bit. After the car rolls a couple feet the front ride height will be fine.
02-09-2012, 10:12 AM
#7
ramey
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02-09-2012, 01:16 PM
#8
...at normal ride height, the a-arms are parallel to the ground and the wheels are the furthest out, the a-arms drop down at the spindle in the air and the wheels move inward slightly. After jacking, the tires look like the sidewall is rolling over and really thats whats holding the car up a little bit. After the car rolls a couple feet the front ride height will be fine.
02-14-2012, 01:34 PM
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...and the geometry of the front a-arms. At normal ride height, the a-arms are parallel to the ground and the wheels are the furthest out, the a-arms drop down at the spindle in the air and the wheels move inward slightly. After jacking, the tires look like the sidewall is rolling over and really thats whats holding the car up a little bit. After the car rolls a couple feet the front ride height will be fine.
The car makes a good amount of creaking/groaning noises from the where the LCA bolt goes in. If the rear part of the SFC was welded, do you guys think that would help eliminate some of the groaning?
I don't see how anything could be wrong on your end. The parts fit perfectly. I meant they're not welded to the car in the rear. I'm not sure if the shop in town that welded them on knew they were supposed to weld the rear part of the connectors (obviously I didn't, which is why I paid someone else to do it
). Pics are below. 
02-14-2012, 01:45 PM
#10
Thanks for the pics.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=191
Image 4 at the bottom of the page shows an example of how the rear bracket is stitched to the rear pickup point on the car.
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=191
Image 4 at the bottom of the page shows an example of how the rear bracket is stitched to the rear pickup point on the car.
ramey
02-14-2012, 02:05 PM
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Thanks Ramey.
That's how I thought it was supposed to be. I'm guessing that since a complete bolt-on version is sold, the fact that mine aren't welded right there isn't catastrophic or anything, right? In your professional opinion, how pertinent is it that I have them welded there? (I don't have a welder, so I'd have to get someone to do it)
That's how I thought it was supposed to be. I'm guessing that since a complete bolt-on version is sold, the fact that mine aren't welded right there isn't catastrophic or anything, right? In your professional opinion, how pertinent is it that I have them welded there? (I don't have a welder, so I'd have to get someone to do it)
02-14-2012, 02:12 PM
#12
I'd say on a scale of 1 to 10, with no SFC's being a 1, that bolting in gives you an 8 out of 10 and final welding gives the next 2 more.
Having that rear section wrap around the pickup point and then stitched in really helps that back area. Bolting it accomplishes much of the same but not quite as much as welding.
As for groaning and creaking, you could pull the bolt, pull them down a bit and hit them with some grease between the SFC and flange. If your sound goes away for a week or two until the grease dissipates, then you know they NEED welded.
ramey
Having that rear section wrap around the pickup point and then stitched in really helps that back area. Bolting it accomplishes much of the same but not quite as much as welding.
As for groaning and creaking, you could pull the bolt, pull them down a bit and hit them with some grease between the SFC and flange. If your sound goes away for a week or two until the grease dissipates, then you know they NEED welded.
ramey
02-14-2012, 04:19 PM
#13
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I bet that groaning is coming from those LCA bushings, poly makes noises and binds.
02-14-2012, 07:47 PM
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they tightened the lca arm bolt with no load on the supension loosen with the car jacked from the rear end grease and tighten the bolt again.... i made this mistake plus poly is known to creek
