blue09rocket

As post title states, looking for a tutorial for replacing the rear brake rotors, only reason Im asking is Haynes manual says nothing about the parking brake in the rear or how to get around that. Is it as simple as the front, remove the wheel, caliper slide pins, brake pads and then the caliper mounting bracket and thenjust yank the rotor off?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

unless the parking brake shoe(internally to the rotor)is rubbing and causing drag,same as front.

MTN_Z

iTrader: (7)

Rotor should just come off with the parking brake disengaged.

blue09rocket

ok great, thank you both. will be tackling this when the weather warms up(if it ever does) all this snow melted now we're supposed to get something major on Monday.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

"Should" come off is right, my passenger side was frozen to the hub and had to be beaten off with a hammer, but I was replacing the rotor so that wasn't an issue to me.

MTN_Z

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I definitely meant "should" as I have experienced the very same thing you have. When the rotor gets stuck on there, it takes some pretty significant force to get it off.

lookin4aTA

With the parking brake disengaged, use a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor if it is stuck.

RedHotG8

iTrader: (1)

A hammer is for pounding nails. I use a propane torch to heat the rotor where it contacts the hub, then it comes off easily.

RJDio

I replaced mine and it wasn't hard, but I only had 1 snag! The rear caliber bracket bolts on passenger side were seized and I broke 2 ratchets trying to get them loose! Spray some penetrating oil on them for a couple days before tackling. I had to take to a friend's shop, put on a lift and get them off with his air tool.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It's similar to the front, except for the e-brake. The main differences between the fronts and backs are different bolt sizes and required torques you need to achieve when you put the calipers back on. (Very important.)

For the rears, you need to adjust the e-brakes every time you replace the rotors. (They need to be adjusted for the exact bore of the rotors.) You can get to the procedure by following my links in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...djustment.html

If your e-brakes haven't been serviced in a while, the adjusters could be gummed/seized up. In that case, you will need to take the mechanism apart, clean it, and re-lube it. If you do that, you'll want to have someone with you who has done drum brakes before. (It's not exactly the same but very similar.) It's not brain surgery, but your first time, it will sure seem like it!

If you do end up having to rebuild, you will probably also need to replace the dust boots on the e-brake lever behind the drum plate. Those are no longer available (for a reasonable price) so you can make your own by cutting a thick piece of rubber to size in the boot holder and then cutting a slit in the middle for the lever.