what control arms and panhard bar?
#1
what control arms and panhard bar?
guys just looking to see what control arms and panhard bar I should put into my Camaro. Its got a 12 bolt moser rear, fully adjustable umi torque arm, with body mount and driveshaft loop but stock control arms and panhard bar. Want it too hook up. Do I need adjustable ones or just round tubular control arms and a tubular panhard bar??
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Probably don't need adjustable LCAs unless you're planning to stuff a really tall tire in the wheel well, although if you do have them then you could tweak the thrust angle if it is off at all (unlikely enough to be a problem but you never know). I also got LCA relocation brackets.
I would get an adjustable panhard so you can keep the rear centered if you lower the car or anything else.
Bushing style will depend on what you're planning on doing. I went Founders 3 piece poly to get a good happy medium of reduced deflection, proper articulation, and NVH.
Everything I bought was from Founders. Good stuff, and incredible pricing IMO.
I would get an adjustable panhard so you can keep the rear centered if you lower the car or anything else.
Bushing style will depend on what you're planning on doing. I went Founders 3 piece poly to get a good happy medium of reduced deflection, proper articulation, and NVH.
Everything I bought was from Founders. Good stuff, and incredible pricing IMO.
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (57)
Edit: ^^Haha, beat me to it^^
You need adj PHB only if you are lowered and need to adjust L to R.
Same for LCA if you need to center rear F to Back.
I run adj PHB and home made LCA. Hooks just fine.
Another words if you don't need to center either way you don't need adjustable.
You need adj PHB only if you are lowered and need to adjust L to R.
Same for LCA if you need to center rear F to Back.
I run adj PHB and home made LCA. Hooks just fine.
Another words if you don't need to center either way you don't need adjustable.
#4
car is gunna see some track time, and some street time. Just want it to hook and go straight. Don't plan on stuffing a big tire, 28inch tall tops, might lower the car at one point an inch. So question is what style bushing should I get? Want it to ride pretty good also.
#5
TECH Addict
iTrader: (57)
car is gunna see some track time, and some street time. Just want it to hook and go straight. Don't plan on stuffing a big tire, 28inch tall tops, might lower the car at one point an inch. So question is what style bushing should I get? Want it to ride pretty good also.
#6
We always try to suggest double adjustable LCA & PHB with heim joint's on both ends.. The key is we use a quality heim joint, reduces noise and has a longer life.. The problem with not purchasing adjustable suspension is eventually you will need it.. I've been doing this for 25 years and I don't know how many times I put non adjustable's in thinking I won't go far with this project and having to pay to change them later..
#7
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
Whenever there is an aftermarket rear in the picture, I like to suggest an adjustable arms and panhard. This is to make up for variances in the mounting locations of the lca's on the aftermarket rear. Normally I will still recommend poly bushings up to around the 600whp mark to keep things quiet and smooth for street driving, and it will not sacrifice performance.
My next question is what do you have in the shock and spring department? That will make as big of a difference as tubular components
My next question is what do you have in the shock and spring department? That will make as big of a difference as tubular components
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Poly can (and does) bind a bit on street when the axle twists, which can lead to a less smooth ride depending on how you drive it. Personally I'd never use regular poly on the rear LCAs because of it. Others disagree.
Brand really makes little difference for how the LCA performs since in the end as the biggest factors will be the bushing style. If you had rod end LCAs from brand A and brand B, odds are both will have the same feel.
Rubber has the softest ride, moderate articulation, and the most deflection. Heim joints have the harshest ride, best articulation, and least deflection. Then there are a bunch of bushing styles in between there with various levels of comfort, articulation, and deflection. Rank the three main variables in the order of importance to you, then look at pricing and choose the bushing that best fits into that.
Brand really makes little difference for how the LCA performs since in the end as the biggest factors will be the bushing style. If you had rod end LCAs from brand A and brand B, odds are both will have the same feel.
Rubber has the softest ride, moderate articulation, and the most deflection. Heim joints have the harshest ride, best articulation, and least deflection. Then there are a bunch of bushing styles in between there with various levels of comfort, articulation, and deflection. Rank the three main variables in the order of importance to you, then look at pricing and choose the bushing that best fits into that.
#9
Staging Lane
iTrader: (6)
I've got UMI on car adjustable with Roto-joint ends for both my panhard and LCA's. I'm lowered with a stock 10-bolt, but decided to spend the extra $30-$50 on adjustable for the peace of mind down the road if I need it. The roto-joints for the street are the way to go. Take a look at UMI's website and they explain the technology in detail. Great guys to work with.
#11
Whenever there is an aftermarket rear in the picture, I like to suggest an adjustable arms and panhard. This is to make up for variances in the mounting locations of the lca's on the aftermarket rear. Normally I will still recommend poly bushings up to around the 600whp mark to keep things quiet and smooth for street driving, and it will not sacrifice performance.
My next question is what do you have in the shock and spring department? That will make as big of a difference as tubular components
My next question is what do you have in the shock and spring department? That will make as big of a difference as tubular components
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
Lowering spring and LCA relocation brackets can sometimes change the front to rear centering of the tires so I'd recommend LCA's that are at least adjustable on one end, like a poly/rod-end combo which will still allow enough articulation to avoid any snap-oversteer or rough ride because of bushing bind. For the PHB adjustable on one end is all you need poly bushing are fine.
IMO stick with lca's and phb's with the length adjustability at the ends of the tube, not further back or in the middle of the tube.
IMO stick with lca's and phb's with the length adjustability at the ends of the tube, not further back or in the middle of the tube.
#14
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
I run the adjustable UMI PHB and LCAs with the roto joints. Very quiet and articulate like spherical rod joints, i.e., no bind. Really the best of both worlds. I wouldn't even consider anything else because of that until other companies come out with a competitor to the roto joint.
#15
Rear lower control arms
Hey guys I have a 2002 Trans Am with rear tubular control arms and the bushings are wasted. I dont know what brand they are honestly and last time I got under my car I didn't really check for a brand but my question is this, does every tubular control arm or aftermarket control arm have the same size bushing or do you have to buy the same brand bushing as the control arm!!! It would be nice if you can just replace the bushings with new ones and maybe save some $$$$$$$ please help
#16
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
Hey guys I have a 2002 Trans Am with rear tubular control arms and the bushings are wasted. I dont know what brand they are honestly and last time I got under my car I didn't really check for a brand but my question is this, does every tubular control arm or aftermarket control arm have the same size bushing or do you have to buy the same brand bushing as the control arm!!! It would be nice if you can just replace the bushings with new ones and maybe save some $$$$$$$ please help
No, every company has their own sized bushings specific to their arms. If you can Identify whos arms they are, you can most likely contact them and get replacements very reasonably. We sell a replacement bushing kit for our arms for about $15 including new sleeves.