Blk98Bird

Thinking about picking up the adjustable lca's and panhard by BADZ to compliment the shocks and springs i'll be doing. My question is, with adjustable lca's is there any need for relocation brackets when lowering the car? Or can they be adjusted to compensate? Going with DMS springs, so about 1.3" drop.

He tells me it should be ok, but I just want to be completely sure before I drop down another few hundred .

Wildman

1.3" is not too much. You might be ok. Go without them and if you notice any wheel hop during acceleration or braking, then buy some later.
Just my opinion.

Be safe.
Paul

jd13

iTrader: (3)

Adjustable LCAs and relocation brackets do different things. You want to keep the LCAs at a stock length. The relocation brackets simply lower the mounting hole of the LCA on the rear end so that it is parallel with the ground as intended.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I heard that the brackets are not needed with DMS springs. Forget about them for now, but them later if you need them.

2w0s060

I agree with this, try it with out. See how it feels and then decide from there. I had a set installed on a stk height car and noticed a difference in launching and wheel hop. You might decide to want them after awhile.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

My car hooks better w/ relocation brackets
at 1" drop than it did without them, stock.
It had a little hop before, none now, just
smears the tires quietly.

You don't just want the arms parallel to the
ground - that's just returning to stock link
geometry. You want to move the geometry
to something -better- than stock, use the
lower hole on a stock suspended or lightly-
lowered vehicle. Only back off if you find brake
hop. Otherwise you have not yet maximized
transient acceleration bite.

Blk98Bird

Would it be the same case for a panhard then since I only have 16" wheels? Just run without and see if it's necessary down the line, or will the rear definitely shift with DMS springs?

Thanks for the info so far guys, the less I have to spend on suspension right away, the faster I get some pacesetters on my car .

Wildman

Again, try without it first. Take a good look at your car from the rear. Look and see how the car sits square. You can also use tape measurements to measure the gap for fender edge to tire to get a rough estimate on both sides. Then install the springs. Re-take your measurements. If it is close to equal on both sides, then I wouldn't worry about it. Although the Madman PHB is much lighter than the stock one.

If you decide to buy it later, it is only a 15 minute install with the right tools.
Also when you do put the adjustables on, make sure you adjust them while the car is preloaded (on the ground). It might not be as obvious to others.

Take care,
Paul

Blk98Bird

Thanks for the info wildman, I think i'm going to go with hd's, dms springs, and a front 1LE swaybar for now. If I go lca's i'll do non-adjustables, and panhard will also be pending so I can see if it's actually necessary.

Hopefully this should be a great combo for the street!

John95Z28

Sounds like a winner; hope it all works for you. By the way, are you ONLY getting the front 1LE bar and leaving the stock rear swaybar in place? I'd suggest doing both the front and rear as a matched set for best results.

Otherwise I think your cornering will feel a bit wacky

Blk98Bird

Well, from what I have been reading the rear 1LE bar was designed to be a litter stiffer than the front. Supposedly the reasoning behind this was to engineer the suspension in a manner that would allow the car to spin out 'front first' for safety reasons. Because of this setup, the car tends to have a bit too much oversteer.

Like I said, this is all just what i've read in various other posts so i'm not 100% sure, but it sounds to me like the stock bar which is less rigid would match up with the front 1LE bar a little better and prevent that oversteer situation.

Could be wrong though, anyone have input?