Relocation bracket question...
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 595
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From: Chicago
Relocation bracket question... Thinking about picking up the adjustable lca's and panhard by BADZ to compliment the shocks and springs i'll be doing. My question is, with adjustable lca's is there any need for relocation brackets when lowering the car? Or can they be adjusted to compensate? Going with DMS springs, so about 1.3" drop.
He tells me it should be ok, but I just want to be completely sure before I drop down another few hundred
.
He tells me it should be ok, but I just want to be completely sure before I drop down another few hundred
. Adjustable LCAs and relocation brackets do different things. You want to keep the LCAs at a stock length. The relocation brackets simply lower the mounting hole of the LCA on the rear end so that it is parallel with the ground as intended.
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Originally Posted by Wildman
1.3" is not too much. You might be ok. Go without them and if you notice any wheel hop during acceleration or braking, then buy some later.
Just my opinion.
Be safe.
Paul
Just my opinion.
Be safe.
Paul
My car hooks better w/ relocation brackets
at 1" drop than it did without them, stock.
It had a little hop before, none now, just
smears the tires quietly.
You don't just want the arms parallel to the
ground - that's just returning to stock link
geometry. You want to move the geometry
to something -better- than stock, use the
lower hole on a stock suspended or lightly-
lowered vehicle. Only back off if you find brake
hop. Otherwise you have not yet maximized
transient acceleration bite.
at 1" drop than it did without them, stock.
It had a little hop before, none now, just
smears the tires quietly.
You don't just want the arms parallel to the
ground - that's just returning to stock link
geometry. You want to move the geometry
to something -better- than stock, use the
lower hole on a stock suspended or lightly-
lowered vehicle. Only back off if you find brake
hop. Otherwise you have not yet maximized
transient acceleration bite.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 595
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From: Chicago
Would it be the same case for a panhard then since I only have 16" wheels? Just run without and see if it's necessary down the line, or will the rear definitely shift with DMS springs?
Thanks for the info so far guys, the less I have to spend on suspension right away, the faster I get some pacesetters on my car
.
Thanks for the info so far guys, the less I have to spend on suspension right away, the faster I get some pacesetters on my car
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Bakersfield, Ca.
Originally Posted by Blk98Bird
Would it be the same case for a panhard then since I only have 16" wheels? Just run without and see if it's necessary down the line, or will the rear definitely shift with DMS springs?
Thanks for the info so far guys, the less I have to spend on suspension right away, the faster I get some pacesetters on my car.
Thanks for the info so far guys, the less I have to spend on suspension right away, the faster I get some pacesetters on my car
.If you decide to buy it later, it is only a 15 minute install with the right tools.
Also when you do put the adjustables on, make sure you adjust them while the car is preloaded (on the ground). It might not be as obvious to others.
Take care,
Paul
Last edited by Wildman; Jun 16, 2004 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Grammar
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From: Chicago
Thanks for the info wildman, I think i'm going to go with hd's, dms springs, and a front 1LE swaybar for now. If I go lca's i'll do non-adjustables, and panhard will also be pending so I can see if it's actually necessary.
Hopefully this should be a great combo for the street!
Hopefully this should be a great combo for the street!
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 271
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From: Regina, SK
Originally Posted by Blk98Bird
Thanks for the info wildman, I think i'm going to go with hd's, dms springs, and a front 1LE swaybar for now. If I go lca's i'll do non-adjustables, and panhard will also be pending so I can see if it's actually necessary.
Hopefully this should be a great combo for the street!
Hopefully this should be a great combo for the street!
Otherwise I think your cornering will feel a bit wacky
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Well, from what I have been reading the rear 1LE bar was designed to be a litter stiffer than the front. Supposedly the reasoning behind this was to engineer the suspension in a manner that would allow the car to spin out 'front first' for safety reasons. Because of this setup, the car tends to have a bit too much oversteer.
Like I said, this is all just what i've read in various other posts so i'm not 100% sure, but it sounds to me like the stock bar which is less rigid would match up with the front 1LE bar a little better and prevent that oversteer situation.
Could be wrong though, anyone have input?
Like I said, this is all just what i've read in various other posts so i'm not 100% sure, but it sounds to me like the stock bar which is less rigid would match up with the front 1LE bar a little better and prevent that oversteer situation.
Could be wrong though, anyone have input?