Adjustable or Non Adjustable LCAs for a bolt on daily driven car?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Adjustable or Non Adjustable LCAs for a bolt on daily driven car?
My car's rear suspension squeaks when getting onto a driveway or passing a bump stop. I'm guessing the old rubber bushings are causing this noise. I was planning on replacing the original bushings with poly ones but instead I've decided to get aftermarket LCAs and Adjustable PHB to save time.
Question is,
Should I go with the adjustable or non adjustable lower control arms?
For a car that's daily driven and isn't gonna have anything else other than bolt ons.
Question is,
Should I go with the adjustable or non adjustable lower control arms?
For a car that's daily driven and isn't gonna have anything else other than bolt ons.
#2
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
I wouldn't worry about the adjustability unless you want the ability to perfectly align your rear axle. You don't want the bushings to bind, and the only common materials which allow that are rubber (which the factory used), heim-joints (metal bearing but it can get noisy if you go cheap) or something in between like a roto-joint.
I would think the least expensive solution (depending on labor rates) would be to keep the stock stamped arms and press in new Moog K6178 bushings.
If using aftermarket arms, I'd opt for the UMI non-adjustable Roto-joint solution (#2034). If you were racing, I'd opt for a double-adjustable (at the ends, not in the middle) heim-joint solution using something like FK Rod Teflon-lined bearings with the appropriately sized Seals-It rod end seal solution.
I would think the least expensive solution (depending on labor rates) would be to keep the stock stamped arms and press in new Moog K6178 bushings.
If using aftermarket arms, I'd opt for the UMI non-adjustable Roto-joint solution (#2034). If you were racing, I'd opt for a double-adjustable (at the ends, not in the middle) heim-joint solution using something like FK Rod Teflon-lined bearings with the appropriately sized Seals-It rod end seal solution.
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JimMueller
I wouldn't worry about the adjustability unless you want the ability to perfectly align your rear axle. You don't want the bushings to bind, and the only common materials which allow that are rubber (which the factory used), heim-joints (metal bearing but it can get noisy if you go cheap) or something in between like a roto-joint.
I would think the least expensive solution (depending on labor rates) would be to keep the stock stamped arms and press in new Moog K6178 bushings.
If using aftermarket arms, I'd opt for the UMI non-adjustable Roto-joint solution (#2034). If you were racing, I'd opt for a double-adjustable (at the ends, not in the middle) heim-joint solution using something like FK Rod Teflon-lined bearings with the appropriately sized Seals-It rod end seal solution.
I would think the least expensive solution (depending on labor rates) would be to keep the stock stamped arms and press in new Moog K6178 bushings.
If using aftermarket arms, I'd opt for the UMI non-adjustable Roto-joint solution (#2034). If you were racing, I'd opt for a double-adjustable (at the ends, not in the middle) heim-joint solution using something like FK Rod Teflon-lined bearings with the appropriately sized Seals-It rod end seal solution.
For the double adjustable at the ends, did you mean for a drag racing set up? Because I race at times in the streets and occasionally at the strip but that as much.
#4
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
I missed the part about the PHB. People opt for the adjustable PHB so they can correctly center their rear axle after lowering. Otherwise there is no need to replace the OEM panhard bar. People sometimes need to use narrower rear control arms (tubular vs boxed, or use offset bushings, for example) to add clearance for the wide rear tires.
I like the adjustability at the end(s) of the tubing... I believe years ago I read that it's stronger this way, but I can't find a source for that statement now. By aligning the rear axle, I meant the rear thrust angle alignment used in a normal alignment procedure. By racing, I meant serious, regular competition racing (for points, awards, cash, etc.), not just street fun and infrequent trips to the local strip.
I like the adjustability at the end(s) of the tubing... I believe years ago I read that it's stronger this way, but I can't find a source for that statement now. By aligning the rear axle, I meant the rear thrust angle alignment used in a normal alignment procedure. By racing, I meant serious, regular competition racing (for points, awards, cash, etc.), not just street fun and infrequent trips to the local strip.
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JimMueller
I missed the part about the PHB. People opt for the adjustable PHB so they can correctly center their rear axle after lowering. Otherwise there is no need to replace the OEM panhard bar. People sometimes need to use narrower rear control arms (tubular vs boxed, or use offset bushings, for example) to add clearance for the wide rear tires.
I like the adjustability at the end(s) of the tubing... I believe years ago I read that it's stronger this way, but I can't find a source for that statement now. By aligning the rear axle, I meant the rear thrust angle alignment used in a normal alignment procedure. By racing, I meant serious, regular competition racing (for points, awards, cash, etc.), not just street fun and infrequent trips to the local strip.
I like the adjustability at the end(s) of the tubing... I believe years ago I read that it's stronger this way, but I can't find a source for that statement now. By aligning the rear axle, I meant the rear thrust angle alignment used in a normal alignment procedure. By racing, I meant serious, regular competition racing (for points, awards, cash, etc.), not just street fun and infrequent trips to the local strip.
Would you happen to know how long the roto joints last before they need replacing or rebuilding. Because I've read they can be rebuilt.
I figured that's what you meant, just wanted to make sure.
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
Sorry, I don't have any personal experience with the Roto-joints, only what I've read elsewhere. I've been using heim joints since 2004.
I'd recommend calling BMR, StranoParts, and UMI (all supporting vendors) and talk to them. Ask each of them about the design differences.
I'd recommend calling BMR, StranoParts, and UMI (all supporting vendors) and talk to them. Ask each of them about the design differences.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I don't see any justification to run something other than the stock LCAs with Moog bushings here. I have adjustables because my 9" wasn't centering perfect with the stockers, and I went heim because everything else I have is heim. You shouldn't need an adjustable PHB unless you're lowered, but if you're dead set on getting a new PHB adjustable is the only way to go.
#9
Oh then I will be needing an adj phb because I plan on getting lowering springs. I'm currently running 275s fronts and 285s rears because those are the sizes the tires came in when I bought the wheels. No rubbing whatsoever though.
Would you happen to know how long the roto joints last before they need replacing or rebuilding. Because I've read they can be rebuilt.
I figured that's what you meant, just wanted to make sure.
Would you happen to know how long the roto joints last before they need replacing or rebuilding. Because I've read they can be rebuilt.
I figured that's what you meant, just wanted to make sure.
Delrin is not a fast wear product, We haven't sold very many replacement races.
Our roto-joints are pretty much bullet proof. The only maintenance other than grease would be tightening up the retaining ring that puts pre load on the spherical ball, this is usually done as the delrin races wear which shouldn't be often.
Craig
#10
From years of experience from not only sales but my personal vehicle I would always suggest purchasing adjustable suspension if you are going to buy aftermarket. Let's be honest we always say we are going to do light mods but does it ever really stop?
Save yourself money and buy adjustable from the start and you will be money ahead later.
Save yourself money and buy adjustable from the start and you will be money ahead later.