who actually broke/cracked tubular K member?
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who actually broke/cracked tubular K member?
i have read that some don't recommend running a tubular K member on a DD for fear of it cracking/failing. who has actually had this happen? how long did you have it b4 it broke? what brand?
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Damn, that scares me a bit. I live in San Gabriel Valley and work in San Fernando Valley. The roads around my office are so bad, they should rename the city to Potholeville.
I wonder if they tend to brake at a weld, and if it is easy to repair? Or better yet, how many people with tubular K members with high mileage that have not broke their K members.
I wonder if they tend to brake at a weld, and if it is easy to repair? Or better yet, how many people with tubular K members with high mileage that have not broke their K members.
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Hate to slighty tarnish my reputation, but it actually wasn't just one brand, but another as well. I've had two, and was disappointed with both, and while only one of them broke, both decreased front-end rigidity. I'd really like to avoid the ethical taboo of stating brand names outright. Just stating my experience as other are also.
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Also agree w/ Foxxton, while they may decrease front end weight, they ruin the handling of the car. So I guess it's fine for drag junkies, but if you care at all about how the car corners then an aftermarket K memeber is not for you.
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Oh yes, and for those who want to reinforce their aftermarket tubular k-members, just bear in mind that by the time you successfully reinforce the k-member, your nearly back to the OEM stamped steel k-member's weight and still not near the OEM's rigidity.
Also, the k-member has a very important duty of not only holding the engine, but also holding the engine at it's right height so it properly mates with the transmission and it's parts that go all the way to the rear wheels and the power steering rack, and the lower a-arms which in turn support the other front-end suspension parts. A good f-body chassis with an OEM k-member is pretty rigid, but if you care to run a road course with a wobbly front end, then you now know what gamble you're in for.
Also, the k-member has a very important duty of not only holding the engine, but also holding the engine at it's right height so it properly mates with the transmission and it's parts that go all the way to the rear wheels and the power steering rack, and the lower a-arms which in turn support the other front-end suspension parts. A good f-body chassis with an OEM k-member is pretty rigid, but if you care to run a road course with a wobbly front end, then you now know what gamble you're in for.
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
so, I take it that you went back to stock? Where did the K member break? was it the same place on both of them?
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Originally Posted by Strokinit383
How many percent of them will actually crack though? Is this a common problem or what?
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I can't say mine has "ruined" handling although it did
return a little front end shake that was not there with
the stock K.
In my opinion it would take a couple of pounds of steel,
tops, to toughen up the BMR K to street duty. I have
never gotten up close to any of the others.
But if you're not in a testing mood, just leave the pig
iron do its job I reckon.
return a little front end shake that was not there with
the stock K.
In my opinion it would take a couple of pounds of steel,
tops, to toughen up the BMR K to street duty. I have
never gotten up close to any of the others.
But if you're not in a testing mood, just leave the pig
iron do its job I reckon.
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
But if you're not in a testing mood, just leave the pig
iron do its job I reckon.
iron do its job I reckon.