Cryogenicly treated rotors?
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Cryogenicly treated rotors?
i asked this about a year ago and got no responses. Has anybody used cryogenicly treated rotors?
heres a company that sells them
http://www.frozenrotors.com/brakefaq.php
and dont say that freezing something to make it stronger is BS. its a scientific process the way they do this.
i just want to know if anyone has bought them for their car, and how they have held up under extreme braking conditions.
my ceramic pads warped the crap out of my stock rotors and i want a good replacement that i can beat on
heres a company that sells them
http://www.frozenrotors.com/brakefaq.php
and dont say that freezing something to make it stronger is BS. its a scientific process the way they do this.
i just want to know if anyone has bought them for their car, and how they have held up under extreme braking conditions.
my ceramic pads warped the crap out of my stock rotors and i want a good replacement that i can beat on
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I have, and I specifically can only agree with the strength at temperatures that won't cause molecular realignment, such as temps below what aggressive street driving would yield. At the MOT's that I have experienced, with both cryoed and uncryoed, they both yielded practically the same molecular compositions after I put them through high MOT's (even @ 600 degrees Farenheit). Bear in mind that I too used proper scientific testing processes and analyses as I am into material sciences as well. I have tried this with both OE replacement rotors and my current brake system's floating rotor's friction rings.
From the results of the pictures, I too have done that analysis, and guess what, both cryoed and uncryoed looked like the pic on the right before installing, bedding in, and properly reaching their MOT, and afterwards, both looked like the picture on the left. I question even the slickest and most professional looking of advertisements, even with the professional names listed below.
I suppose if you are really paranoid, you can just try them and keep buying them when you need replacement, however I can safely say that it's a great scientific procedure being abused with slick marketing tactics using mostly unsubstantiated information. I never really liked endorsements either since they're often miscontrued as being the "ultimate determinant" in truth factors.
This guy too has his information down good as well:
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
From the results of the pictures, I too have done that analysis, and guess what, both cryoed and uncryoed looked like the pic on the right before installing, bedding in, and properly reaching their MOT, and afterwards, both looked like the picture on the left. I question even the slickest and most professional looking of advertisements, even with the professional names listed below.
I suppose if you are really paranoid, you can just try them and keep buying them when you need replacement, however I can safely say that it's a great scientific procedure being abused with slick marketing tactics using mostly unsubstantiated information. I never really liked endorsements either since they're often miscontrued as being the "ultimate determinant" in truth factors.
This guy too has his information down good as well:
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
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thank you very much! yeah im not so paranoid about them warping, i just like the idea of them lasting forever/bulletproof.
i like what that guy has to say about the drilled rotors too! finally someone agrees with me!
i like what that guy has to say about the drilled rotors too! finally someone agrees with me!
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Originally Posted by unSStoppable
I got a buddy who works for frozen rotors, ill get some info for ya.
Foxxton and I have used them and our results indicate that one should save one's money. However, if they want to send me a set of rotors to try out and a set to compare them to, I'll gladly try another set.
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Okay, more confusing but interesting details from a bunch of people who do some of the same s*** I do.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=145775&page=6
Now, one strange thing I notice through all of the interesting details is...
8K miles non-cryo vs. 30K w/cryo. Again, mostly from public safety dept., and probably have contracts that must be fulfilled for a specified period of time (just my speculation, but I like to be a devil's advocate, in a realistic manner that is.)
From my experience with lots of hard driving, I haven't even worn down non-cryoed rotors before 30K. I didn't get anything much more out of cryoed ones either. I tried two different cryoed brands, which both had slighty different metallurgies.
In all honesty, I think a real problem with a majority who peruses this forum who are "warping" and/or cracking their rotors is due mostly to a combination of poor pad-in, brake modulation, and improper service intervals. The old idea of just wanting to slam on the brakes and hold is a very bad one, especially for AX and RR.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=145775&page=6
Now, one strange thing I notice through all of the interesting details is...
8K miles non-cryo vs. 30K w/cryo. Again, mostly from public safety dept., and probably have contracts that must be fulfilled for a specified period of time (just my speculation, but I like to be a devil's advocate, in a realistic manner that is.)
From my experience with lots of hard driving, I haven't even worn down non-cryoed rotors before 30K. I didn't get anything much more out of cryoed ones either. I tried two different cryoed brands, which both had slighty different metallurgies.
In all honesty, I think a real problem with a majority who peruses this forum who are "warping" and/or cracking their rotors is due mostly to a combination of poor pad-in, brake modulation, and improper service intervals. The old idea of just wanting to slam on the brakes and hold is a very bad one, especially for AX and RR.
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well frankly im dont autox my car. i think drilled and slotted rotors are stupid, no street car will ever need them. i want something that can take me slamming on my brakes at +130mph onmy ceramic pads and not warp like a piece of ****
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Originally Posted by camaroextra
well frankly im dont autox my car. i think drilled and slotted rotors are stupid, no street car will ever need them. i want something that can take me slamming on my brakes at +130mph onmy ceramic pads and not warp like a piece of ****
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Originally Posted by Foxxton
Unrealistic expectation from a stock system, or for the matter, just about any street pad compound. The only thing I can suggest is a brake system like mine, and you'll need something like club race pads in order to have some good friction properties and with using club race pads in order to reduce much of the fade, even between passes. If you expect dramatically shorter distances, then your car needs a weight loss programme.
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Originally Posted by camaroextra
No my car stops just fine, i just dont wnat my next set of rotors to warp.
130+ mph braking while slamming on the brakes will cause much heat to build up quickly, and the stock system isn't quite up to par with doing that for too many intervals, plus do you know the MOT of your current pads, and have you taken temps of your rotors between runs? What brake fluid are you running? These are some good questions to ask yourself.
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Originally Posted by Foxxton
Cryogenic treatment won't help with that. Are you familiar with rotor runout? This is many times the cause of the "warping" and not so much the rotor itself warping. Improper bedding combined with extreme braking will prematurely wear rotors quite a bit, even with drag racing stops. Again, your car may stop okay now, then when the system overheats, you'll have fade so bad that next time you brake may be the last thing you ever do.
130+ mph braking while slamming on the brakes will cause much heat to build up quickly, and the stock system isn't quite up to par with doing that for too many intervals, plus do you know the MOT of your current pads, and have you taken temps of your rotors between runs? What brake fluid are you running? These are some good questions to ask yourself.
130+ mph braking while slamming on the brakes will cause much heat to build up quickly, and the stock system isn't quite up to par with doing that for too many intervals, plus do you know the MOT of your current pads, and have you taken temps of your rotors between runs? What brake fluid are you running? These are some good questions to ask yourself.
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No problem, and sorry if my rhetoric came on strong. Believe me, many of us around here were where you are at the moment.
I definitely say get really familiar with your brakes as they are now, and then really research to see what works or not. A lot of people can't stand doing that, but here's a statement that always plays in my mind:
"Too few horsepower/torque never killed anybody, too little braking power does."
I definitely say get really familiar with your brakes as they are now, and then really research to see what works or not. A lot of people can't stand doing that, but here's a statement that always plays in my mind:
"Too few horsepower/torque never killed anybody, too little braking power does."