Rear bar Match for front 32MM Swaybar
#1
Rear bar Match for front 32MM Swaybar
So I already have a spohn 32MM solid front sway bar... Im about to order a spohn rear sway bar, but they offer both a 22mm and 25mm rear bar. I see that they sell them in a pair for the front and the 22mm bar.. is that the best combo or is there an advantage for getting the larger 25mm bar?
Car will be mostly a street car with a few trips to the auto cross and a rare trip to the drag strip.
Car will be mostly a street car with a few trips to the auto cross and a rare trip to the drag strip.
Last edited by Corvettekid82; 07-31-2007 at 12:25 AM.
#4
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stock Z28/TA - 30/19 (all)
standard SS/WS6 - 32/19 (most)
some special SSs/WS6s - 35/21 (only a few)
Get Strano's 35/22 package or stick with the stock rear bar. If you upsize the rear bar, that's good for drag racing only. Otherwise, it will only make your car even more tail happy. Not recommended.
standard SS/WS6 - 32/19 (most)
some special SSs/WS6s - 35/21 (only a few)
Get Strano's 35/22 package or stick with the stock rear bar. If you upsize the rear bar, that's good for drag racing only. Otherwise, it will only make your car even more tail happy. Not recommended.
#6
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With a 32mm front bar, keep the stock rear if you want a good roll balance between front and back. You can put in a 21 if you want, but the car would be more tail happy. It's your choice if you prefer less roll in the rear, but the car would be better balanced with 32 front/ 19 rear Definitely don't get the 25mm front. That would be way too much bar. Body roll isn't necessarily a bad thing. The idea is to get the optimal amount of body roll and suspension travel.
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#9
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I'm not crazy about increasing the rear roll stiffness of the car some 30% and either not changing the front at all (SS, 1LE, WS6, etc.), or just increasing the front to stock SS levels by adding a 32mm bar like they already come with. Ever have the rear try and pass the front, it gets worse when you add relatively more rear roll stiffness. Consider also the front and rear suspensions are NOT the nearly the same, and 30% at the rear is much more than 30% at the front.
Bottom line, the cars roll a lot, and understeer stock. We want rid of both without making the car oversteer all over because that's not safe, or fun to drive fast because it's a white knuckle ride.
*I* maximize the front grip with a decent alignment first. That makes the car looser. I then add a lot of front bar to help with the body roll and response, and only run just enough rear bar to give a balanced car, not a loose one.
If you run a 32mm front, stay on a 19mm rear--PLEASE. Even if that costs me a sale of one of my hollow rear bars, I'd recommend the 19mm is the smarter move in 99% of the cases where a 35mm front bar is not being used.
Bottom line, the cars roll a lot, and understeer stock. We want rid of both without making the car oversteer all over because that's not safe, or fun to drive fast because it's a white knuckle ride.
*I* maximize the front grip with a decent alignment first. That makes the car looser. I then add a lot of front bar to help with the body roll and response, and only run just enough rear bar to give a balanced car, not a loose one.
If you run a 32mm front, stay on a 19mm rear--PLEASE. Even if that costs me a sale of one of my hollow rear bars, I'd recommend the 19mm is the smarter move in 99% of the cases where a 35mm front bar is not being used.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!