Springs hitting panhard bar....
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Springs hitting panhard bar....
Ok, i heard some clunking going on from the rear so i checked it out. Come to find out my springs are hitting the panhard bar. The suspension is stock 1LE suspension, the only thing i have changed was the rear. I put a moser 12 bolt and it does have the lca relocation brackets on it. Well the springs didn't hit before the 12 bolt. Has anyone else had this problem and what can i do about it?
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I've read that some of the big rears sit forward or back
from stock wheel location when you use stock LCAs.
If they are obviously biased fore/aft you might need to
get adjustable LCAs to draw /push them away from
PBH/spring interference. I know the "hose mod" can
let the spring top slop around some too, you might need
some cobbling up there if you did that.
from stock wheel location when you use stock LCAs.
If they are obviously biased fore/aft you might need to
get adjustable LCAs to draw /push them away from
PBH/spring interference. I know the "hose mod" can
let the spring top slop around some too, you might need
some cobbling up there if you did that.
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well i found the problem, appearently one of the bolts came out of the top of the torque arm on and the first hard launch at the track with slicks ripped the other one out of the top which made the rear flop back thus making the spring sit all crooked in the seats. That would explain my 2.0 60' times also!
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its a moser 12 bolt rear and stock torque arm. here is a link to the pics if you want to check it out.
http://musclecar-evolution.com/forum...ead.php?t=2583
http://musclecar-evolution.com/forum...ead.php?t=2583
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I was hoping you weren't going to say that. The car I just bought also has a Moser. Apparently this happens somewhat frequently with those rears.
FYI: I plan on using saftey wire on mine to hold the bolts in.
FYI: I plan on using saftey wire on mine to hold the bolts in.
#10
Nah, on the moser I think they have 4 bolts two go in the top, two go in the bottom. Partly why I won't be getting the moser.
Some of the red super-strong loctite would probably keep them in, but you have to have some serious leverage (or 500 degrees heat) to take them out
Some of the red super-strong loctite would probably keep them in, but you have to have some serious leverage (or 500 degrees heat) to take them out
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Nah, on the moser I think they have 4 bolts two go in the top, two go in the bottom. Partly why I won't be getting the moser.
Some of the red super-strong loctite would probably keep them in, but you have to have some serious leverage (or 500 degrees heat) to take them out
Some of the red super-strong loctite would probably keep them in, but you have to have some serious leverage (or 500 degrees heat) to take them out
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Originally Posted by chevroletfreak
I was hoping you weren't going to say that. The car I just bought also has a Moser. Apparently this happens somewhat frequently with those rears.
FYI: I plan on using saftey wire on mine to hold the bolts in.
FYI: I plan on using saftey wire on mine to hold the bolts in.
safety wire is great for most critical fasteners, but it wont help in this case.
the problem stems from the fact that the bolt is so short that it doesnt stretch enough.... it eventually becomes loose.
while saftey wire will keep it from coming out..it wont keep it from getting a little loose... as soon as its loose, the sheering action the suspension puts on the torque arm, makes the mount rip out.
blue locktite and checking it often are really the two best ways to go.... or get one of their newer rears that use the long bolts.
#15
Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Uh, again to clarify, I have an auburn posi unit, it has two long bolts w/ nuts or 4 bolts, 2 top / 2 bottom on the rear pumpkin...?
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Uh, again to clarify, I have an auburn posi unit, it has two long bolts w/ nuts or 4 bolts, 2 top / 2 bottom on the rear pumpkin...?