whats a good rotor/pad combo?
05-28-2008, 03:56 AM
#3
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I've allways had good luck with the blanks and Hawk HPS's.
This time around i'm going to experiment. I found a set of cryo treated slotted rotors i wanna give a try.
This time around i'm going to experiment. I found a set of cryo treated slotted rotors i wanna give a try.
05-28-2008, 01:52 PM
#6
the drilled and slotted is for heat dissipation. instead of the gas build up between the brakes and the pads it leaks out through the holes drilled in the rotors. and it also allows it to cool off faster allowing better breaking. if you auto cross race its a good idea to get them. other than that its really not necessary.
05-28-2008, 02:00 PM
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i just upgraded from stock to brembo blanks and hawk hps pads-amazing. definitely get yourself a good set of rotors, they may be more money but its better to not warp!
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05-28-2008, 06:06 PM
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^^^ That's exactly what i was trying to stay away from.
Oh and as for the drilled an slotted rotors, both are for looks. New pads do not gas out and/or glaze over like the old ones in the 60's and 70's. There is really no need for them. I just found a sweet deal and had the money. So i'll give em a try. If they turn out to be crap i'll go back to the good ol' blanks.
Actually more (solid) metal allows for better cooling, as there are unbroken points of heat transfer through to the end of the rotor where the cooling vanes are. That's why we go to larger rotors, more metal to transfer and dissipate heat. If anything they do shave a few ounces w/ all the holes lol.
Here is a good explanation:
Oh and as for the drilled an slotted rotors, both are for looks. New pads do not gas out and/or glaze over like the old ones in the 60's and 70's. There is really no need for them. I just found a sweet deal and had the money. So i'll give em a try. If they turn out to be crap i'll go back to the good ol' blanks.
the drilled and slotted is for heat dissipation. instead of the gas build up between the brakes and the pads it leaks out through the holes drilled in the rotors. and it also allows it to cool off faster allowing better breaking. if you auto cross race its a good idea to get them. other than that its really not necessary.
Here is a good explanation:
holes and slots merely create weak points....its 99% a visual thing to have the "performance" look. 60 years ago the brake pads were made of inferior materials that gave off a gas that necessitated a way to remove it, but modern pads do not generate this. If you're willing to soak up the cost of replacing rotors and pads more often, then go for it. Otherwise stick with a quality set of "blanks"
I would find it hard to believe that drilled/slotted rotors make any reasonable difference...if they did then Formula One, CART, NASCAR, and many other racing series might use them, fact of the matter is, they don't.
I would find it hard to believe that drilled/slotted rotors make any reasonable difference...if they did then Formula One, CART, NASCAR, and many other racing series might use them, fact of the matter is, they don't.
Last edited by djsanchez2; 05-28-2008 at 06:12 PM.
05-28-2008, 08:45 PM
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im going with brembo blanks and hawk pads and quite a few people on here are running this setup and say they like it a lot so im excited to install em and test it out
05-29-2008, 10:02 AM
#17
I've got Summit drilled/slotted rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads. Approaching 10k mile on them with no problems. I think if you are going to race, though, I'd go with a harder pad, like the Redstuff (if going with EBC). Overall, I'm very happy.
05-29-2008, 01:33 PM
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how do you remove the brake calipers? seems like i tried taking them off when i painted them and i couldnt get them off. can they be locked on there some how? how do you grease your sliding pins?
05-29-2008, 01:41 PM
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http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
go under install documents, there are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper to the bracket, then 2 16mm bolts holding the bracket to the rotor.
Chad