YellowTA1

iTrader: (10)

I am getting ready to move into a house, and it has a 2-carport garage that I am going to try to enclose it so I will have a place to put my car when it comes out of the shop. I have attached a pic for reference, and wanted to know what my options were on material to use, etc.

sleepersilverado

iTrader: (1)

Enclose it with tin. Although I think you are going to need some bracing to help it support wind loads regardless of what you use.

firemech21

iTrader: (9)

sleepersilverado - I agree.
OR
Rip that down, frame some walls, sheath it, and have a full on garage. It would cost a bit more, but in the long run would probably be worth it and would increase property value.

1965GP

iTrader: (2)

Shouldn't be to hard to frame up some walls around it.

YellowTA1

iTrader: (10)

the distance between the sides to the middle is 14 ft. I was thinking about putting another pole in the middle. I'm kind of on a budget, so what would be the best, not necessarily the cheapest? I don't necessarily want to tear it down and start over.

YellowTA1

iTrader: (10)

any suggestions on what I should use to frame up the walls?

HTX

iTrader: (1)

Why not just build up a liitle on the sides using 2by4's and use tarp to make walls?

Something like these http://www.portablegarageshelter.com/tarp-garages/

YellowTA1

iTrader: (10)

because I was going to create a ramp of sorts with gravel or something on the far right, then get some hinges and make a swinging door so I could pull it out and lock it up when it was inside....

1965GP

iTrader: (2)

Can you post pics of the metal frame structure? My first thought is to use metal studs sideways (perpendicular to how you would usually install them) for the corrugated sheet metal to screw into.

If you want a door my suggestion would be to build a center post for the doors to mount to- then have two sets of swing out barn door style gates.

How sturdy is it? You don't want to spend $1000 on this when for $800 you can get one of those sheet metal structures they sell on I -45.

Cowboy97

iTrader: (3)

I would sell it and start over, it looks like just one of those cheap car ports and I don't think those posts would support a door.

tanks99ls1

Not only that but the roof looks like it has no incline to let water run off when it rains, that weight plus the wait of the walls built around it, plus the swinging doors would not be supported by that small of a gauge

HTX

iTrader: (1)

In that case, is this in your budget?
http://freshome.com/2010/09/30/luxur...arage-parking/

ggriffin59

iTrader: (7)

I agree with all of these points. You need to know what the existing posts are made of. Aluminum won't hold the doors. Use a magnet to see if they are steel.

I think the enclosed version of the carports you see for $800 run around $2500, with an overhead door.

SSwt00SS

iTrader: (18)

As an Architect, you need to disclose a few more details:

What are the existing car port materials and the condition of those components?

What is the condition of the existing slab? It looks like a simple slab-on-grade. Also, is the slab reinforced and rated at 3000psi (the minimum required by code) in order for a structure to be allowed to go vertical? Also, needs to be a minimum of 6" thick.

Also, is securing a permit required to have an 'enclosed' structure constructed? If so, what requirements might need to be met? A call to your local city building inspector would be fine. Also, need to know if there are any building codes you might have to meet.

As stated above, I would suggest light guage metal stud framing with proper cross bracing for wind shear loads. Any additional beams, beam span depth would need to be at minimum 1/2 the length of the desired span. Additional vertical columns would need to be of sufficient size to support beams and other deadload loads. This is why a proper slab is critical.

I could go on and on, but then people would bitch that I'm over thinking such a simple thing. At times, it's anything but simple.

Good luck.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Its a simple residential garage..... The loading does not require it be to 6"+, this is for residential, there is no code that mandates slab thickness. If it would be in the county for most places in Texas, they would only require a plumbing permit, if that. By scale it looks like the structure is roughly 24' or so wise and whatever deep. If you break this in to (2) bays with a beam at the left wall, middle point, and right wall wall, you can use a W10x12 for spans up to 20' and 6" x 14 gauge purlins the opposite direction at 4'-5' O.C, with R panel sheathing for the roof. The walls are 10' or less is appears. So you would use 6" purlin wall framing, top height, mid height, and shoot light gauge base angle down to the slab for wall closure.

Cowboy97

iTrader: (3)

Talking about it looking flat and since you can't see the end of the panels, I bet it has the built in gutter system to deal with the water, and those normally dump out the bottom of the outside channel. One more issue to consider.

seancarole

you could put roll up doors on both ends and 2x4 frame it covered with hardy board sheets. I got a roll up on ebay 10years back was like 100$ with door guides

1965GP

iTrader: (2)

I think my roll us were 550 each- but that is a good idea. You could almost build a stand alone door frame and all thread it in the concrete.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Hardy board and 2x4s is much more expensive than light gauge steel framing and R panel.

05 GSXR 1XXX

iTrader: (16)

Can't tell from the pic, I would tear that down, pour a slab and 2x4 with metal siding.. Roll up door, or you could make a swing door out of plywood.

Def concrete though.. Laying on crushed rock sucks!