what's a good jack for a lowered car?
02-04-2009, 04:36 PM
#1
what's a good jack for a lowered car? I need a low profile jack for the TA... something not crazy expensive and that can get under my car without having to lift the car by hand at the same time lol...
I know Jegs has some nice jacks... gonna get on their website right now and check em out...
I also need to pick up some jack stands while i'm at it... wonder if there is any kinda package deal somewhere...
I know Jegs has some nice jacks... gonna get on their website right now and check em out...
I also need to pick up some jack stands while i'm at it... wonder if there is any kinda package deal somewhere...
02-04-2009, 04:59 PM
#2
Actually AutoZone has a really really good deal. I scored 2 4-ton jack stands, a jack, wheel chocks, and one of those things you lay on to roll under the car for not very much! You could get a good low profile jack and this little package and you have an extra jack in case you ever want to drop your tranny, rear end, or what have you. Hope that helps!
Kyle
Kyle
02-04-2009, 05:17 PM
#3
Actually AutoZone has a really really good deal. I scored 2 4-ton jack stands, a jack, wheel chocks, and one of those things you lay on to roll under the car for not very much! You could get a good low profile jack and this little package and you have an extra jack in case you ever want to drop your tranny, rear end, or what have you. Hope that helps!
Kyle
Kyle
02-04-2009, 09:45 PM
#6
It was long ago, it's really tought to say.
I think it was $60, but I could be completely wrong. Also, the jack works and it is fairly small, it just barely lifts high enough to get it on the jack stands. Sometimes I use it get my giant NASCAR-style jack under there. Lol I really don't know what kind of jack it is, it's just huge and I just borrowed and forgot to return it from the last place I worked at. Works great though!
02-05-2009, 01:25 PM
#7
Here's what I'm looking at possibly getting... just not sure which one would be better for me... the 1.5 ton or the 2 ton... the 2 ton is $40 more and not sure I would need it...
JEGS 1.5-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack ($149.99)
Design inspired by Sprint Cup's lightweight pit jacks
Features:
* Low-profile aluminum floor jack
* Weighs only 37.7 pounds
* Four pumps with exclusive a new single-cylinder design
* Hydraulic lift of 14"
* Lifting capacity rated at 3,000 pounds
* Rubber pad to prevent marring
* Saddle rotates 360°
* Minimum saddle height of 3-1/2" (good for small space storage)
* Maximum saddle height of 17-1/2"
* 47" long, two-piece handle with knurled grip to prevent slippage
* Dual sidegrip handles for easier maneuvering and positioning
JEGS 2-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack ($189.99)
Design inspired by Sprint Cup's lightweight pit jacks
Features
# Low-profile aluminum floor jack
# Weighs only 38.5 pounds
# Four pumps with a new single-cylinder design
# Hydraulic lift of 13-3/4"
# Lifting capacity rated at 4,000 pounds
# Rubber pad to prevent marring
# Saddle rotates 360°
# Minimum saddle height of 3-3/4" (good for small space storage)
# Maximum saddle height of 17-3/4"
# 47" long, two-piece handle with knurled grip to prevent slippage
# Dual sidegrip handles for easier maneuvering and positioning
JEGS 1.5-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack ($149.99)
Design inspired by Sprint Cup's lightweight pit jacks
Features:
* Low-profile aluminum floor jack
* Weighs only 37.7 pounds
* Four pumps with exclusive a new single-cylinder design
* Hydraulic lift of 14"
* Lifting capacity rated at 3,000 pounds
* Rubber pad to prevent marring
* Saddle rotates 360°
* Minimum saddle height of 3-1/2" (good for small space storage)
* Maximum saddle height of 17-1/2"
* 47" long, two-piece handle with knurled grip to prevent slippage
* Dual sidegrip handles for easier maneuvering and positioning
JEGS 2-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack ($189.99)
Design inspired by Sprint Cup's lightweight pit jacks
Features
# Low-profile aluminum floor jack
# Weighs only 38.5 pounds
# Four pumps with a new single-cylinder design
# Hydraulic lift of 13-3/4"
# Lifting capacity rated at 4,000 pounds
# Rubber pad to prevent marring
# Saddle rotates 360°
# Minimum saddle height of 3-3/4" (good for small space storage)
# Maximum saddle height of 17-3/4"
# 47" long, two-piece handle with knurled grip to prevent slippage
# Dual sidegrip handles for easier maneuvering and positioning
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02-06-2009, 12:32 AM
#9
$190 at Summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=sum-g1020
Jack lift range is 2 3/4 in. to 20 in. Can't beat that.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=sum-g1020
Jack lift range is 2 3/4 in. to 20 in. Can't beat that.
02-06-2009, 03:16 AM
#10
I'll have to check them out...
yea i was looking at that one too... i just like the fact that the Jegs is aluminum, has handles on the side, and just looks better IMO... oh and it's cheaper lol...
but the low profile setup of the summit one is indeed nice... I need to go outside and see how low my car is off the ground... need to measure for clearance...
$190 at Summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=sum-g1020
Jack lift range is 2 3/4 in. to 20 in. Can't beat that.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=sum-g1020
Jack lift range is 2 3/4 in. to 20 in. Can't beat that.
but the low profile setup of the summit one is indeed nice... I need to go outside and see how low my car is off the ground... need to measure for clearance...
02-07-2009, 08:58 AM
#11
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Keep in mind that jacks are something that indeed, you do get what you paid for. I've gone through several cheap jacks, but still am not real happy with the ones I have (a small Torin and then a Torin Big Red - Pep Boys, chinese jacks). The big Torin is doing OK so far (it's big enough to put my Suburban in the air).
For my next jack, I want to make sure the cylinder is rebuildable. I had a decently big jack I bought at AutoZone, the cylinder lost pressure. The cylinder was crimped shut - therefore not rebuildable, and it was of a proprietary design. So of course now I have a big doorstop. There's $75 down the tubes.
I've twisted the frames of 2 smaller jacks. One got twisted so bad that I had to throw it away. The other was able to be straightened for use again, but I don't trust it a whole lot.
For jacking a lowered car, I'll use the stock F-body scissorjack to get the car up a couple of inches, and then use one of my regular floor jacks to raise it the rest of the way. The stock scissorjack is what, 2" tall? It gets under there no problem, and it's not hard to get the car up a couple of inches so that a real jack can take over.
For my next jack, I want to make sure the cylinder is rebuildable. I had a decently big jack I bought at AutoZone, the cylinder lost pressure. The cylinder was crimped shut - therefore not rebuildable, and it was of a proprietary design. So of course now I have a big doorstop. There's $75 down the tubes.
I've twisted the frames of 2 smaller jacks. One got twisted so bad that I had to throw it away. The other was able to be straightened for use again, but I don't trust it a whole lot.
For jacking a lowered car, I'll use the stock F-body scissorjack to get the car up a couple of inches, and then use one of my regular floor jacks to raise it the rest of the way. The stock scissorjack is what, 2" tall? It gets under there no problem, and it's not hard to get the car up a couple of inches so that a real jack can take over.
02-07-2009, 11:39 AM
#12
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I picked a couple of scissor jacks from walmart a year or so ago and they work real well to get car up for floor jack.But they are just like a bottle jack I wouldn't want to be under car with just them.
02-07-2009, 07:19 PM
#13
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Check these out. They are very good jacks. I have the DK20 and it fits under my lowered WS6 and SS just fine. I would like to get the DK13HLQ.
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
02-07-2009, 08:59 PM
#14
Check these out. They are very good jacks. I have the DK20 and it fits under my lowered WS6 and SS just fine. I would like to get the DK13HLQ.
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
02-07-2009, 09:17 PM
#15
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I'm sure I'll get flamed by the sears jack haters, BUT.... I have two Sears aluminum racing jacks that I've used frequently for two years w/o problems. Very light and very low profile.
02-07-2009, 09:52 PM
#16
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For jacking a lowered car, I'll use the stock F-body scissorjack to get the car up a couple of inches, and then use one of my regular floor jacks to raise it the rest of the way. The stock scissorjack is what, 2" tall? It gets under there no problem, and it's not hard to get the car up a couple of inches so that a real jack can take over.
02-08-2009, 12:45 AM
#17
After having the dilema of getting a jack under a lowered car i bought a 8 foot 2x10 and cut it into pieces and made very small ramps (to drive up on to) that get the car off the ground a couple inches so that a regular jack fits under there just fine, cheap and works great if you already have a good jack
02-08-2009, 11:35 AM
#18
CMS uses a couple of teh US General blue jacks like Harbor Frieght sells and after seeing them use it im considering buying one. I have to jack the body up a little just to get a jack under the crossmember for the front or to get my jack handle to clear the rear bumper on the rear.
02-08-2009, 02:18 PM
#19
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the sears lightweight jacks are JUNK!!! the have a strange spring loaded push button type pump, its not actually connected to the handle, that spring always jams up, and it pisses me off!!! steer clear any design like that!
