Crank Bolt Removal solution
#1
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Crank Bolt Removal solution
I see numerous threads about getting the crank bolt off to install ASP pulleys -
I have another truck to do and came across this product....
It is a crank stopper.
Remove a spark plug
Install the crank stopper
Turn the engine over until is stops again the stopper
The end is soft brass - so it will not damage the piston.
It will stop the motor - you so can remove the bolt
then install the pulley - the install a new bolt and gently
turn the motor til it stops - then tighten.
Here is their website
You can order direct - for 12.95 plus shipping.
Ask for Pete.
http://www.ipatools.com/crankstopper.html
Another fun tool to buy......
I have another truck to do and came across this product....
It is a crank stopper.
Remove a spark plug
Install the crank stopper
Turn the engine over until is stops again the stopper
The end is soft brass - so it will not damage the piston.
It will stop the motor - you so can remove the bolt
then install the pulley - the install a new bolt and gently
turn the motor til it stops - then tighten.
Here is their website
You can order direct - for 12.95 plus shipping.
Ask for Pete.
http://www.ipatools.com/crankstopper.html
Another fun tool to buy......
#2
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So, tell me how this is not going to damage the piston when you are applying 250ft-lbs of torque to reinstall your bolt. It sure looks like there will be a lot of pressure on one corner of the pin. Which will not only gouge or crack the piston, it could also break off and then you will have a nice little piece of brass floating around in your chamber.
You can go ahead and spend the 12.95, but I think taking a little time to remove the bolt right is going to save you a engine rebuild when you are done.
You can go ahead and spend the 12.95, but I think taking a little time to remove the bolt right is going to save you a engine rebuild when you are done.
#3
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Tools like that are more for findind true TDC when you have a degree wheel mounted on the crank. You turn the crank one direction until it stops then read the degree wheel. Then you turn the crank the other direction until it stops and you read the degree wheel. Then you know that true TDC for that cylinder is the 1/2 way point between the 2 readings on the wheel. Those tools are not meant to exert a lot of force against.
#4
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MSU...If you dont like that one
Try a Harmonic Balancer tool from SP Tools - part number YA6280.
http://www.sptool.com/
Try a Harmonic Balancer tool from SP Tools - part number YA6280.
http://www.sptool.com/
#5
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I don't like the idea of using a piston stop to remove the crank pulley.
l have an M6 and, therefore, I do not have the same issue that auto guys have. Never-the-less I had to use a five foot lead pipe attached to a long 3/4 inch 2.5 foot breaker bar to remove my crank bolt.... It was REALLY tight!
Consequently, I think there is a very good chance that using a brass piston stop could surely but a hole in your piston.
Considering that a busted piston could cost you in excess of eight grand to repair, it would be wise to use another method to block engine rotation such as a flywheel tool.
...better safe than sorry!
l have an M6 and, therefore, I do not have the same issue that auto guys have. Never-the-less I had to use a five foot lead pipe attached to a long 3/4 inch 2.5 foot breaker bar to remove my crank bolt.... It was REALLY tight!
Consequently, I think there is a very good chance that using a brass piston stop could surely but a hole in your piston.
Considering that a busted piston could cost you in excess of eight grand to repair, it would be wise to use another method to block engine rotation such as a flywheel tool.
...better safe than sorry!
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#8
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Sweet Jesus, what happened to that poor bolt
I really think the only "safe" way to tighten or loosen is w/the flywheel holder, its easy for me because the flywheel is exposed because of the 400
I really think the only "safe" way to tighten or loosen is w/the flywheel holder, its easy for me because the flywheel is exposed because of the 400
#9
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No thanks. The only thing that should be touching the top of a piston is air, fuel, and mabey some nitrous
A small nick in the piston can cause a hot spot, leading to detonation and pinging. I'd also be weary of it damaging the spark plug threads when that much torque is applied to a crank bolt, especially with our aluminum heads.
With M6 transmissions, you can put the car in 6th and apply the emergency brake. A4 transmissions are a little trickier. Worst case scenerio, use a pry bar to hold the flywheel. At least if you chip the flywheel, it's a $100 part and a fairly easy fix, not a damaged piston, bore, or ring......
A small nick in the piston can cause a hot spot, leading to detonation and pinging. I'd also be weary of it damaging the spark plug threads when that much torque is applied to a crank bolt, especially with our aluminum heads.
With M6 transmissions, you can put the car in 6th and apply the emergency brake. A4 transmissions are a little trickier. Worst case scenerio, use a pry bar to hold the flywheel. At least if you chip the flywheel, it's a $100 part and a fairly easy fix, not a damaged piston, bore, or ring......
#10
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You could always remove the spark plug and insert some string (2 ft or so) into the cylinder bore. Then turn the crank till the piston pushes on the string. The string will evenly spread the load on the whole piston, and does not have the possibility of damaging plug threads!
#12
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
thats why i just grab the IR titainium and not worry about it.
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Originally Posted by cary00silve
You could always remove the spark plug and insert some string (2 ft or so) into the cylinder bore. Then turn the crank till the piston pushes on the string. The string will evenly spread the load on the whole piston, and does not have the possibility of damaging plug threads!
Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
thats why i just grab the IR titainium and not worry about it.
THe Ti kicks major booty.