whats needed for 10.50s in a 6 speed 2000 tran am?
08-02-2008, 12:14 AM
#1
whats needed for 10.50s in a 6 speed 2000 tran am? what is a good parts list to follow to run a 10.50 pass? I have lower control arms ,sub frame connectors, m/t drag radials ,pro 5.0 shifter, fast lid, pan hard rod , tq arm and kyb agx 8 way adjustable shocks. what do I need motor wise and how can I put her on a diet while retaining my heat and ac until my compressor fries? I would love to retain good street manners and atleast 23mpg highway if I can. these are honest questions I would realy like to try and keep my motor budget around 3000 but the rear end and tranny are already lined up so price isnt needed there.
08-04-2008, 09:37 AM
#3
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Are you new to the track? Your either going to need a pretty big shot or get a cam in it and drop some serious weight. I always had very inconsistent results when I had my 6 speed cars. Me with almost full bolt ons, transbraked th400 with 3000 stall, 243 heads, cam, and 160 ish shot i ran best of a 10.9 but that was the first time I had the car to the track. Only had a 1.65 60' on that pass. My mph was I think good for a 10.5 tho.
08-04-2008, 09:39 AM
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if your stock now, then you could start by doing a full long tube header/ free flowing exaust setup. That ran me 1300, but you could pull it off for cheaper if you haddto. I did a fast 92/92 setup but thats kindof pricey ($1450 fully ported). My cam swap with oil pump and timing chain, with new springs, retainers, seats, seals, and pushrods costed me 1100 even, which was a huge horsepower maker. I dont even have heads yet, but good heads can run you 3000 dollars ( Trickflow 215's ported), but theyll get the job done for sure.
The only way i think you can go 10.5 with a 3000 budget is going full exaust, then a cam job, and then throwing some nitrous on it.
You can take out the seats to save weight, the spare tire/ jack. Racing tires/rims (front skinnies save a ton of weight, and more importaintly rolling weight). Theres the sway bar and the front and rear bumper supports, but be warned, if you ever get into an accident, not just for the car, but insurance will absoutly dick you over (Personal experience). I had my car down to 3375 raceweight which i pretty good. But 10.50's are no joke, so, i say 3000 is a little hard to do it on all motor, but given more money, a well built head/cam/intake package would get you there. Maybe you should go cam only with exaust, then save up for the intake, then heads.
The only way i think you can go 10.5 with a 3000 budget is going full exaust, then a cam job, and then throwing some nitrous on it.
You can take out the seats to save weight, the spare tire/ jack. Racing tires/rims (front skinnies save a ton of weight, and more importaintly rolling weight). Theres the sway bar and the front and rear bumper supports, but be warned, if you ever get into an accident, not just for the car, but insurance will absoutly dick you over (Personal experience). I had my car down to 3375 raceweight which i pretty good. But 10.50's are no joke, so, i say 3000 is a little hard to do it on all motor, but given more money, a well built head/cam/intake package would get you there. Maybe you should go cam only with exaust, then save up for the intake, then heads.
08-04-2008, 11:41 AM
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In my red camaro I had a cam, full exhaust, 150 shot netting me a best of 11.3 at 124. So then again my mph was there but that was a 6 speed car and I couldn't for the life of me make it consistent since I didn't have near enough track time to figure the car out. A good driver with some time could have got it high 10's i'm sure.
08-04-2008, 12:25 PM
#6
are the ls2 and ls6 stock casting able to work on an ls1? if so wich is better for porting or wich is the best stock casting if there is another? I have a friend who works wonders with gen 1 sbc's and has built many race cars and currently is building a bike whos first run was .04 seconds from breaking a record leting out at the 1/8th.
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08-04-2008, 12:53 PM
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$3000 is not going to get you to 10.50...
Well maybe for ONE pass with a big enough shot... LOL
Honestly, if you're a 6speed, first you need practice. There are not a lot of people who drive 10.50's in a stick, and a lot of those who do, do it in a car that is capable of 9's
A strong, well designed H/C setup will net you 10.5's Ive gone 10.3's with 25mpg in a car I drive on the street all the time. A cheap set of ported heads [ie Patriot] and a huge cam will not get you there either. You have to pay to play.
I think if you get a good H/C setup, one that is designed properly and more importantly tuned properly, the correct bolt ons, and a lot of practice, a 10.5 is not out of the question. But it will not cost you $3000, maybe 2 or 3 times that.
You will need more suspention, K-Member and so on, I would run slicks not DR's on a stick car.
Also you may not need a transmission, save that money and put it towards good heads maybe. Im still on the stock T-56 with 68000miles and close to 400 passes, comming off the line as high as 7200rpm. When it comes to transmissions, my believe is that its all in the driver. If you are a violent ***** who cant time your left foot with your right hand, you will always **** up transmissions. If you take car, and only beat on it when you need to, like I do, you can make a stock T-56 run low 10's with 7000rpm WOT shifts and last 350+ passes... like I am doing...
But what do I know? I only run 10.3's in a 3300lbs 6speed street car....
Well maybe for ONE pass with a big enough shot... LOL
Honestly, if you're a 6speed, first you need practice. There are not a lot of people who drive 10.50's in a stick, and a lot of those who do, do it in a car that is capable of 9's
A strong, well designed H/C setup will net you 10.5's Ive gone 10.3's with 25mpg in a car I drive on the street all the time. A cheap set of ported heads [ie Patriot] and a huge cam will not get you there either. You have to pay to play.
I think if you get a good H/C setup, one that is designed properly and more importantly tuned properly, the correct bolt ons, and a lot of practice, a 10.5 is not out of the question. But it will not cost you $3000, maybe 2 or 3 times that.
You will need more suspention, K-Member and so on, I would run slicks not DR's on a stick car.
Also you may not need a transmission, save that money and put it towards good heads maybe. Im still on the stock T-56 with 68000miles and close to 400 passes, comming off the line as high as 7200rpm. When it comes to transmissions, my believe is that its all in the driver. If you are a violent ***** who cant time your left foot with your right hand, you will always **** up transmissions. If you take car, and only beat on it when you need to, like I do, you can make a stock T-56 run low 10's with 7000rpm WOT shifts and last 350+ passes... like I am doing...
But what do I know? I only run 10.3's in a 3300lbs 6speed street car....
08-04-2008, 03:22 PM
#10
i ran 10.68 @ 129 mph .....i have a 402 6 spd with m/t dr's and i cut an ave of 1.50 60ft times .... that was on a poorly prep track ! so on a full slick the car should go bottom 10's you'll need a lot more than 3000 to get there .......but it does take time to get the set up down susp. launch rpm ect .... i have a two step coming out at 6000 rpms i do have video also
08-04-2008, 03:33 PM
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Also, think about what you are saying as far as 3K for motor.
Good heads alone will be close to $2500. A $1000 set of heads will not get into the 10.50 range. Im sorry for the lovers out there, but I have yet to see a car with cheap heads run fast.
A cam is $425 or so,
Intake and TB is going to be over $1500 as well once ported.
Plus all the bolt-ons, good headers and so on, bolts fluids, and everything else needed to properly install a H/C/I setup will go way over $3K
08-04-2008, 04:35 PM
#13
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I have the most respect for you guys cutting those times but for the most part I just don't see many people if any where I'm at getting those kind of times out of a 6 speed car. I think more often then not it is all up to driver error like it was in my case. Personally after switching to my trans braked th400 I would never go back. The first time I ever had the car to the track on a 90+ degree day I had a best 60' of a 1.45.
So like I asked previous are you new to drag racing or do you have any experience in a car? Because I wouldn't want to see you disappointed when you hop in a car that is supposed to be setup for a 10 second pass and then you go out and cut 2.0 60' to be in the mid 11's.
So like I asked previous are you new to drag racing or do you have any experience in a car? Because I wouldn't want to see you disappointed when you hop in a car that is supposed to be setup for a 10 second pass and then you go out and cut 2.0 60' to be in the mid 11's.
08-04-2008, 05:13 PM
#15
yes I am relativly new to racing cars but have alot of experience with bikes. honestly if I run 11s id **** but I would like to build a car capable of 10.5s I honestly dont think I am a good enuff driver to pull the absolute best times outa a car yet but hey everyones got to learn also I realy only want to build the engine once wich is why I wanna shoot for 10.50s. if anyone can point me in the direction of a good how to thread site or page for pulling some weight outa the car that would be a great help. also if there is a stock casting that can be ported out to be a great head point me in the direction of them as well. I have a guy who works wonders with a set of heads. alsodoes the ls6 intake have enuff meat on it where its portable?
08-04-2008, 05:20 PM
#16
go to drag racing section there is a sticky on weight reduction if you want to go 10's on motor it will cost you.... but also suspension is huge! remember you have to put the power down. my 402 was close to 10 g after all was said and done my trans wasnt cheap either , but little at a time if your on a budget have real goals so your not disapointed .....but going fast in a 6 spd is fun 
08-04-2008, 08:48 PM
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save up man... Ported trickflow 215's, with a decent to big cam, ported fast 92/92 setup and some good long tubes, i like hooker but everyone has a hardon for the million dollar kooks headers. Youll definatly get there with that if you have the drivetrain and suspension worked out. BUT you can kiss that 3000 budget goodbye.... i do think you get the point...
