WTF is wrong
#2
Your 60ft. time would be the most helpful,when a vehicle doesn't 'run the number' the 60ft. time should be the first thing to look at. All the power in the world won't run quick if it can't hook up
That and other info, weather conditions, track conditions, tires, tranny, suspension, etc... the more info the better.
That and other info, weather conditions, track conditions, tires, tranny, suspension, etc... the more info the better.
#3
Your 60ft. time would be the most helpful,when a vehicle doesn't 'run the number' the 60ft. time should be the first thing to look at. All the power in the world won't run quick if it can't hook up
That and other info, weather conditions, track conditions, tires, tranny, suspension, etc... the more info the better.
That and other info, weather conditions, track conditions, tires, tranny, suspension, etc... the more info the better.
#6
Your MPH seems low for 425 RWHP.....my old 93 T/A would go 12.4x @ 109 and it had 50 less RWHP. Is your car tuned? You need a good torque arm to help help get your 60' time down.
Last edited by qwk93ta; 05-06-2009 at 06:25 AM.
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#9
yeah the 90 degree weather sucks i'll try the front sway bar. car was tuned by bluecat (phillip smith, ky) bristol, tn is also a very high altitude track...on our local forum everybody says the track is .2 to .4 slower than most places but i don't know if they're trying to make their times sound better. as far as some cars don't perform...especially lt1's, i'm beginning to believe that! lol thanks guys and i'd appreciate any more input.
#11
First, check the basics: Plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc.
Second, I'm not a stick shift guy, but you're probably granny shifting, or shifting to early. According to your dyno numbers, you should still be trapping at around 115 mph, even with the heat and humidity. In good weather, you should trap around 120. ET=traction/suspension, MPH=Power.
This is a prime example of why people shouldn't get caught up on dyno numbers until they take their car to the track.
Second, I'm not a stick shift guy, but you're probably granny shifting, or shifting to early. According to your dyno numbers, you should still be trapping at around 115 mph, even with the heat and humidity. In good weather, you should trap around 120. ET=traction/suspension, MPH=Power.
This is a prime example of why people shouldn't get caught up on dyno numbers until they take their car to the track.
#12
First, check the basics: Plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc.
Second, I'm not a stick shift guy, but you're probably granny shifting, or shifting to early. According to your dyno numbers, you should still be trapping at around 115 mph, even with the heat and humidity. In good weather, you should trap around 120. ET=traction/suspension, MPH=Power.
This is a prime example of why people shouldn't get caught up on dyno numbers until they take their car to the track.
Second, I'm not a stick shift guy, but you're probably granny shifting, or shifting to early. According to your dyno numbers, you should still be trapping at around 115 mph, even with the heat and humidity. In good weather, you should trap around 120. ET=traction/suspension, MPH=Power.
This is a prime example of why people shouldn't get caught up on dyno numbers until they take their car to the track.
#15
wat fuel pump and injectors you running. do you have a dyno tune or mail order. i put down 425 on a 125 shot and i trappe 117 in 90 degree weather and high humity. somethings diff. wrong
#16
#17
OP - DA will play a part...also I think you are stressing WAY TOO much on the dyno numbers. I'm not saying you shouldn't be a few MPH higher, but Dyno's are tools that's all. You haven't mentioned on what dyno type and what CF. Also, you haven't mentioned what tune you are running.
Cna you post the Time slips and the Dyno sheet? That may help us help you.
#19
my fuel pump setup is the walbro 255 gph i think. i have the 200 cc advanced induction h/c. street strip intake. 58mm holley. trick flow 36lb hr injectors. 1.6 comp roller rockers. 383 bottom. I know one thing that's killing me is bristol will not allow me to run open header. i ran it with cutouts corked through a system that on the dyno showed a gain of close to 50 hp when the headers were opened. input? thanks