12.23 bolt-on 2.73 car
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12.23 bolt-on 2.73 car
Well I went to the track last night hoping to hit 12.7's at best, just wanted to see 12's after all of the inconsistency issues the car has had and not to mention the 15.2-16.0 A/F ratio @ WOT before this current tune. Best pass before this tune was a 13.0, ran a best of 12.23 last night and the car was within .07 3 out of 4 runs, pretty consistent considering the track is hit or miss on traction.
60': 1.76
330': 5.10
1/8 ET: 7.88
1/8 MPH: 90.11
1/4: ET: 12.23
1/4 MPH : None(track had issues with timing equipment, no 1/4 MPH or 1000' ET or MPH times) ..think my data logs showed 109
Needless to say I'm pretty freakin' happy with these times! The car has lid, paper filter, headers, Rhino79 email tune, 3800 stall, Nitto 555R's, 2.73 gears, and full weight minus back seat and door panels(working on manual window swap) ..I actually had enough tools in the trunk to make the car full weight. I spun a little on every pass, and DA was 2686. I think I have an 11 second bolt-on car in good air.
60': 1.76
330': 5.10
1/8 ET: 7.88
1/8 MPH: 90.11
1/4: ET: 12.23
1/4 MPH : None(track had issues with timing equipment, no 1/4 MPH or 1000' ET or MPH times) ..think my data logs showed 109
Needless to say I'm pretty freakin' happy with these times! The car has lid, paper filter, headers, Rhino79 email tune, 3800 stall, Nitto 555R's, 2.73 gears, and full weight minus back seat and door panels(working on manual window swap) ..I actually had enough tools in the trunk to make the car full weight. I spun a little on every pass, and DA was 2686. I think I have an 11 second bolt-on car in good air.
Last edited by Tan327; 08-21-2011 at 05:48 PM.
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Thanks, really happy with the 2.73's. I've done a lot of research and most said going to a lower gear makes very little difference in 1/4 times but feels much better around town. 3.73's + the stall would probably be too much for the Nitto's anyway, I'd probably run worse.
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Who knows, I drive almost 200 miles round trip to the track so I decided against M/T's. When I upgrade the rear I'll be going with 3.73's and probably a set of M/T's in the trunk.
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That's a far drive to a track.Where I live with in 100 miles I have about 8-10 tracks.The closest 25-30 miles away but its an 1/8 mile track.
Last edited by 1Bad97WS-6; 08-21-2011 at 05:54 PM.
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Come the last race of the season when it's cool out I may pull some weight out of the car and go for that 11.9
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I'm just afraid to throw gears in and pop the 10 bolt, seems like it would be a waste. I'll run my 10 bolt until it breaks, but a 9" is planned for next year. Thanks for the advice.
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I agree, more gear will make that converter SO much better for dd'ing. I think you could pick a couple tenths up with some gears, but with good air you'd prolly run 11.9's like it sits.
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Stalled autos arent nearly as hard on the wimpy 10 bolt, I've seen several vehicles pulling 1.5x 60's on them. I think a 3.42 would be a super upgrade, just swap the whole rear as the others mentioned if you want.
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The car is annoying around town, feels like I'm working against the stall too much.
#20
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Stock ten bolt with GM 373 gears.
They hold up incredibly well behind autos.
Hm, not sure where a 3.42 rear is but I know where I can get a 3.23 rear for $100, it was actually supposed to come with my car but I didn't have a place to store it. Think 3.23's are worth it?
The car is annoying around town, feels like I'm working against the stall too much.
The car is annoying around town, feels like I'm working against the stall too much.
However if I was going to spend 100$ and a couple hours doing the swap, I would hold out for a 3.42. You probably will see little to, more likely, no gain between 342 and 323, but why not if you're doing it.
The 3.23s will also take the 90mph lag spot away.