nwilson44

Well I had a pretty hard time hooking up, I found out one of my fan relays had quit on me, valve seal wasn't fixed (it is now), and found out the cheap felpro header gaskets were leaking....

Since I have installed a UMI torque arm and relocation kit, got lighter wheels, fixed fan relay so it runs much cooler, and some other stuff. Really wanting to get to the 11's but I am more than 1/2 a second away. Not sure what else I can do other than some slicks.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pgU...ature=youtu.be

luxexpress1

Mph is plenty good for a 11 second pass. What tires are you running? Sounds like a ton of spin at launch and on shift. Get rid of that and you'll make up a ton of time. Keep at it.

nwilson44

I was running my 315/35/17 NT555 extremes. I since got a lighter stock SS wheels. I launched at like 3000 and tried to get out but it didn't work. I powershifted 1-2 and lifted to go to 3rd since my 3rd is a tad weak. Working on technique but getting into the 11's has been tough.

luxexpress1

I think you just need some more runs to figure out what the car wants. Lower pressure to 20 pounds or so in tires, do a good burnout. Probably 3000 rpm is a good start, I have an auto w stall so not sure. Get that 60 below 1.9 and I'm sure with your power and gears 11s will be easy. Seen others with cam/heads/etc struggle run after run and all of a sudden click off times into the 11s and I'm sure you will too if you have a chance to get 4-5 runs in a day. My best runs have usually been my third or forth pass of the day so there's something to be said for practice makes perfect.

ironmikektm525

Get DR's . I wasted $ on nt555 and nt05 when I should've bought nt05r's from the beginning.

gesto

Are you going to RPR tomorrow night?

Try some bias ply's. They work much better than DR's on an M6. Then it's just practice.

nwilson44

Yeah that was my second outing and its been tough to get it off the line quickly. Generally get out 60' by trucks lol. Tried 3500 and that was way too much and I tried lower and it's just a mess. Hopefully this new torque arm set up will plant the tires harder. It was also getting hotter every pass since my fan relay crapped out without me noticing.

So I don't need to add power to get 11's I just need to work on hooking up?

Oh absolutely. I am waiting on a stronger rear end before I get too crazy with tire compound. Although I had higher expectations of these tires especially for how wide they were. When I get a 12 bolt or something Ill throw some sticky tires on there.


I will try those after I get a decent rear end that'll take the abuse.

gesto

You should have plenty of power for 11's. There are many bolt-on cars running low-12's or better. An M6 takes a lot more practice than an A4.

A bias ply is generally easier on the rear than a DR. A bias ply will absorb more of the drivetrain shock, allow you to launch at a higher rpm and enable a little controlled wheel spin. That's why I run them on my GTO, which doesn't have the strongest stock rear in the world.

nwilson44

Yeah thanks for the advice. I'll look into those. Do they make them in 17's? How much do shocks effect traction? My front end is completely redone with UMI and Koni bits and my rear is mostly done except shocks and sway bar. I got that torque arm so I know that'll help but will the shocks and sway bar help out on the back?


Went roll racing and 1st gear is a joke and second doesnt hook up till the top of the gear....

gesto

I don't know if they make them fo 17's. I know you can't get a 16' mickey thompson bias ply. Search jegs or summit for m/t or hoosiers. You need to run bias plys on the front as well for safety. I use mine for the strip only.

I can't answer the other suspension questions. I'm on a stock suspension and I don't have traction issues yet

Good luck.

2011grandsport

You definitely need #1 a rear that will handle hard launches 9" with 3.90 gear & spool, stay away from the 12 bolts, #2 a good bias ply tire 26/11.50 15", now you can launch it at what ever rpm will work best for you.
I have the set up i just described, i have been leaving at 5500 to 6000 rpm's and best 60' has been 1.58 and ET was 11.60 at 118 mph. I have had clutch problems not letting me shift past 5500 so my times have been lower than they should be. You have an LS6 vs my LS1, your cam is bigger so you should be able to get in the 10's easier than me. My race weight is about 3500 lbs. My sig shows all other supporting mods.
I was using the same tires you have even before cam change, i could not hook 1st through 3rd without slipping the clutch a bunch. Street runs! out of the question. 3rd gear on the street at 2000 rpm hit would fry the tires.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

You have plenty of power for 11's. Definitely don't add any kind of power since your having problems hooking now. A good and proper tire for your setup will work wonders. Either a stiff wall full slick or if you want a dot tire get a bias ply. You can make a radial work but it's going to take a lot of seat time and suspension tuning for it. Just get a bias ply. To me any of our cars with even the slightest cam should be in the 11's.

nwilson44

So what about shocks and sway bars? will koni's and the matching UMI rear sway bar help launch?

gesto

Do you have tubular LCA's and relocation brackets?

nwilson44

Yeah man the car has tubular front uppers and lowers, tubular rears with relocation brackets, UMI torque arm and relocation crossmember, Koni yellow fronts, front 35 mm sway bar, 3-point weld in subframes, and is really just missing rear shocks and sway bar. Also running eibach lowering springs. I'm running some 275 section 555's and I'm using a LS7 clutch witch has been grabbing great. Car just won't launch with any authority. Even if you bog it, it'll light up the rears at the top of 1st... spin into second and may hook by the top of 2nd. 9-inch is coming at the beginning of 2017 so I can hopefully run some radials or bias plys and get gowne.

Not sure if fhe rear konis and sway bar would help but it's pretty hopeless trying to hook it.