Ok I been stuck in the 13s too long!
#1
Ok I been stuck in the 13s too long!
Ok I been stuck in the 13s too long! Ok this is my setup and times ls1 with headers, ory, wisper lid, smooth bellows, stock exhaust with cutout in the back before muffler, stock convertor, 2.73 gears with 27" tire, and dyno tune, and Draglites. The car dynoed at 312 hp and 317 lbs. My best run is 13.20 @ 106 that was in the winter at 40 degrees. Last week I went to the track in weather about 85 degrees and cut a 13.40 @ 107.8 mph with a 2.0 60 ft (my tires hook good) and the 107.8mph was with hitting the brake (sandbagging). What do you think I should do? I am ordering a hooker catback nexted week manily because i just hate my flowmaster. I also thinking about 3.42 gears. But I like my 2.73 gears for the highway. My car is making mph for 12's just not making 12's. Also I want to take my egr pipe out of my TB hopefully I make a few more hp with that out. I have all the emmission codes taken out of the computer. Thanks
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well you could put a converter in it, or the gears, or Do all the free mods that might just get you there. The converter will get you there. maybe some lighter wheels I've done a converter and some old 16's off a 93 camaro or something. I havne't been to the track yet but I ran a 13.6 stock but with 3.42 gears. I had some problems my last time at the track I hope to be deep in the 12's with my shot. But then I cracked my block lol ok enough bout me. Converter your there you 60's will drop and that should get ya there.
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#8
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I highly suggest the convertor. I had the same problems, awhile back, going to the track all excited, because I was going to get the 12sec slip and never got there. Bite the bullit. Get a TCI ssf 3500 stall, and that will drop you .5 of a sec. Don't be a puss. I had the 3.23 gear ratio in my car stock, when I changed out the 10 bolt for the 12bolt and had the 3.73 put in, there was not a major difference, in gas milage or rpm at a higher rate of speed. Just feel kick *** like the tires are going to rip out from underneath you.
#11
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wait till it lets go, then do ur converter, A GOOD SHIFT KIT, and a tranny cooler.
those 3.42s, by the way, wont kill u on the highway....my A4 runs along at 70mph at about 2400rpm.
also, check out the LS1 Free Mods, do some of those, they have been showed to give around 10rw...that may help your drive for 12s also!
those 3.42s, by the way, wont kill u on the highway....my A4 runs along at 70mph at about 2400rpm.
also, check out the LS1 Free Mods, do some of those, they have been showed to give around 10rw...that may help your drive for 12s also!
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Before you do the gears you should do the drag radials. You need to be able to "hook". I went with the DR's for now and will do gears next winter. Dropped my 60ft times from 2.19 to 1.72. I do have the 3.23's. But bang for the buck I would take DR's over gears to start.
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How are you launching, stalling against the converter or flooring it? I have 3.23s and have no tirespin at all, so you should be fine with 2.73s. I actually think getting DRs would hurt my time and bog me down as the car sits now. For the longest time i used the stall method, then I tried flooring it out of the hole and got better times. Being in the rediculously low 13's sucks, as I've ran 13.00 and 13.01 before. Removing the Torque management and playing with the shift points finally got me into the 12's.
Goodluck
Goodluck
#16
I know how it feels. I ran 13.0s all night one time. Seriously i ran 13.0 seven times one night. Probably too many runs in one night but it was killing me! I had to break the 12s! My advice upgrade the stall and gears. Dont do just one or the other. They love each other! Together they gave me .9 tenths! On a bone stock ls1! Of course i have 4.10s but i only have a 3000stall. You have to change the gear though if you put that big of a stall in it. If not the stall will feel extremely "loose" with that tall of a gear. If you put that big of a stall in it and leave the 2.73s your mpg will go down because its going to take too long for the stall to lock up. A lower gear will keep the stall locked up as often as possible. And add a LOT of power down low! Hope i was of help.
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My car likes to suck up the mods and give nothing in return.
With Lid and magnaflow catback(best run 13.56)
The switch from 2:73's to 3:42's dropped me to 13.2's all day long even when hot out.
Then I added a crappy SLP 2600 stall-messed up my traction-so bought Nittos. I had about 10 runs and 1 would have been a high 12, but was cool out and car hooked good.
Then 2 weeks later I added LT headers and gained in the 40 h.p area on the dyno. Is hotter out now and seems everytime I go to track the car gets 13.0's or 13.1's and a few times would have easily broke the 12 barrier, but was during ET drags and I had to let off the gas to win the race.
So last week I bought a Fuddle 3400 stall...First time at track with a DA of 4000 feet, hit 12.861 at 104.something(slip isn't in front of me). Dropped me in the 1.7's on 60' and 8.1's in 1/8th. I am sure 12.5's are in my near future. It was a crappy night and track prep was crap when I ran the 12.861.
I'm still confused how adding LT's and tuning on the dyno for the A/F could show no real gain at the track. But the 3400 stall finally did it. I'd keep the 2:73's, get a good stall converter/cooler/drag radials and you should easily see 12's.
With Lid and magnaflow catback(best run 13.56)
The switch from 2:73's to 3:42's dropped me to 13.2's all day long even when hot out.
Then I added a crappy SLP 2600 stall-messed up my traction-so bought Nittos. I had about 10 runs and 1 would have been a high 12, but was cool out and car hooked good.
Then 2 weeks later I added LT headers and gained in the 40 h.p area on the dyno. Is hotter out now and seems everytime I go to track the car gets 13.0's or 13.1's and a few times would have easily broke the 12 barrier, but was during ET drags and I had to let off the gas to win the race.
So last week I bought a Fuddle 3400 stall...First time at track with a DA of 4000 feet, hit 12.861 at 104.something(slip isn't in front of me). Dropped me in the 1.7's on 60' and 8.1's in 1/8th. I am sure 12.5's are in my near future. It was a crappy night and track prep was crap when I ran the 12.861.
I'm still confused how adding LT's and tuning on the dyno for the A/F could show no real gain at the track. But the 3400 stall finally did it. I'd keep the 2:73's, get a good stall converter/cooler/drag radials and you should easily see 12's.
#18
I'd keep the 2:73's, get a good stall converter/cooler/drag radials and you should easily see 12's.[/QUOTE]
If you put a stall in it with 2.73 gears its gonna feel too loose. That gear is too tall for a stall. It would take ALL day to lock up and you would lose a lot of mpg in the city. With a stall it will get better mpg with 3.73s or 4.10s in the city because it would keep the stall locked up. Let us know how it turns out man.
If you put a stall in it with 2.73 gears its gonna feel too loose. That gear is too tall for a stall. It would take ALL day to lock up and you would lose a lot of mpg in the city. With a stall it will get better mpg with 3.73s or 4.10s in the city because it would keep the stall locked up. Let us know how it turns out man.
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get rid of that cutout you lose backpressure and get some real exhaust like borla or corsa it will get you out of the hole alot faster and get rid of those slicks unless you want to start breakin **** all you need is some nitto 555s