After some research on the T-Rex...
01-20-2006, 08:26 PM
#1
After some research on the T-Rex... I've pretty much decided to go with it, after seeing a few dyno sheets.
This might seem like a strange question, but as this is really my first V8 and first performance car....what exactly is the T-Rex like on the street? I know it won't make a whole lot of power down low, so as far as power under ~3500rpm, is it going to feel close to stock? Assuming the tuning is spot-on, how hard would this be to drive on the street, as far as driving ~40 miles to work on 35-55mph roads? I've never driven a cammed car before (except my uncle's 10 second Nova, but that was only for a few minutes, on a straight road), so any observations or opinions on how a large cam acts, from cruising on the interstate, to the difference in top end compared to a stock cam car, would help a lot. I'm not worried about getting in over my head, just wanted some ideas on what it'll be like once I do get it cammed.
Just to add some details, it's an M6 with 4.10s, 10 bolt, intake/exhaust supporting mods.
This might seem like a strange question, but as this is really my first V8 and first performance car....what exactly is the T-Rex like on the street? I know it won't make a whole lot of power down low, so as far as power under ~3500rpm, is it going to feel close to stock? Assuming the tuning is spot-on, how hard would this be to drive on the street, as far as driving ~40 miles to work on 35-55mph roads? I've never driven a cammed car before (except my uncle's 10 second Nova, but that was only for a few minutes, on a straight road), so any observations or opinions on how a large cam acts, from cruising on the interstate, to the difference in top end compared to a stock cam car, would help a lot. I'm not worried about getting in over my head, just wanted some ideas on what it'll be like once I do get it cammed.
Just to add some details, it's an M6 with 4.10s, 10 bolt, intake/exhaust supporting mods.
01-20-2006, 08:30 PM
#2
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Destin FL
Posts: 4,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Element
I've pretty much decided to go with it, after seeing a few dyno sheets.
This might seem like a strange question, but as this is really my first V8 and first performance car....what exactly is the T-Rex like on the street? I know it won't make a whole lot of power down low, so as far as power under ~3500rpm, is it going to feel close to stock? Assuming the tuning is spot-on, how hard would this be to drive on the street, as far as driving ~40 miles to work on 35-55mph roads? I've never driven a cammed car before (except my uncle's 10 second Nova, but that was only for a few minutes, on a straight road), so any observations or opinions on how a large cam acts, from cruising on the interstate, to the difference in top end compared to a stock cam car, would help a lot. I'm not worried about getting in over my head, just wanted some ideas on what it'll be like once I do get it cammed.
Just to add some details, it's an M6 with 4.10s, 10 bolt, intake/exhaust supporting mods.
This might seem like a strange question, but as this is really my first V8 and first performance car....what exactly is the T-Rex like on the street? I know it won't make a whole lot of power down low, so as far as power under ~3500rpm, is it going to feel close to stock? Assuming the tuning is spot-on, how hard would this be to drive on the street, as far as driving ~40 miles to work on 35-55mph roads? I've never driven a cammed car before (except my uncle's 10 second Nova, but that was only for a few minutes, on a straight road), so any observations or opinions on how a large cam acts, from cruising on the interstate, to the difference in top end compared to a stock cam car, would help a lot. I'm not worried about getting in over my head, just wanted some ideas on what it'll be like once I do get it cammed.
Just to add some details, it's an M6 with 4.10s, 10 bolt, intake/exhaust supporting mods.
01-21-2006, 05:50 AM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The definition of driveability varies wildly from person to person. It'll help that you've got an M6 and 4.10's. With a good tune you could drive it to work and back every day, but whether or not you'd actually want to is a different story. Be prepared for surging and bad gas mileage. Also I would imagine that the T-Rex is giving up enough low end that it would actually feel slower than stock in normal driving (i.e.- under 3500 RPM), even with 4.10's. Which brings up another point: you're really going to have to spin it up to take advantage of the power of that cam, so be prepared.
Also, make sure you keep your long term goals in mind. The T-Rex was designed as a max effort camshaft for stock heads. This means it's gonna be real tough to find a set of after market heads with higher compression and/or larger valves that will clear that cam without having to flycut the pistons. If you plan on doing heads later, it might be smart to go a little less aggressive with the camshaft.
If you see alot of track time and are just interested in max gains with stock heads the T-Rex may be the cam for you. Just keep in mind that the driveability won't be like stock, and after having to drive it in traffic to work every day for a month or so you might begin regretting your decision. If at all possible, find somebody in your area with that cam (or something similar size) and the same supporting mods as you with a good tune. See if they'll let you drive it for a bit. That's the only way you'll be able to tell for certain if its driveability is going to be an issue for you.
Also, make sure you keep your long term goals in mind. The T-Rex was designed as a max effort camshaft for stock heads. This means it's gonna be real tough to find a set of after market heads with higher compression and/or larger valves that will clear that cam without having to flycut the pistons. If you plan on doing heads later, it might be smart to go a little less aggressive with the camshaft.
If you see alot of track time and are just interested in max gains with stock heads the T-Rex may be the cam for you. Just keep in mind that the driveability won't be like stock, and after having to drive it in traffic to work every day for a month or so you might begin regretting your decision. If at all possible, find somebody in your area with that cam (or something similar size) and the same supporting mods as you with a good tune. See if they'll let you drive it for a bit. That's the only way you'll be able to tell for certain if its driveability is going to be an issue for you.
01-21-2006, 08:34 AM
#5
SILVERHAWK02TA-good advice!
ELEMENT-that cam is a monster and if you want the car to drive better and still make gobs of power,the LG motorsports cams g5x2 and the g5x3 cams are pretty big make lots of power and both cams drive with no problems.(i've had both but now going to the x4 cam)goodluck to ya.
ELEMENT-that cam is a monster and if you want the car to drive better and still make gobs of power,the LG motorsports cams g5x2 and the g5x3 cams are pretty big make lots of power and both cams drive with no problems.(i've had both but now going to the x4 cam)goodluck to ya.
01-21-2006, 08:52 AM
#6
I was definitely considering the G5x3 and the G5x4...once you get the 4 in, and some driving time on it, let me know what your opinion on the differences between it and the x3 are. If the T-Rex means I can't comfortably (which means I'd put up with some surging and all, but I don't want to hate to drive the thing) take it to work and cruise on some back roads on the weekends, I'll go with one of the LG grinds.
01-21-2006, 12:01 PM
#7
12 Second Club
I don't understand people bitching about driveability issues with the trex cam...
I borrowed one of my friends car for a couple of days he had trex + 4.10s....and dyno/street tune that him and a few other people put together for it...
Let it sit warm up for a few min before driving and your off....the only issue I came across was really slow highway speeds in 6th gear....
The only thing that would prevent me from being able to drive that car ever day was the exhaust setup....bullets right off the collectors and no cross over.
I have another friend with the trex and forged 346...with a quiet exhaut he drives this car everyday in the summer with no issues...even takes it on trips.
I think with a GOOD tune...and the right gearing you are all set....the MPG went down but with 430rwhp from stock heads, cam and bolt ons I would be willing to loose some MPG.
I borrowed one of my friends car for a couple of days he had trex + 4.10s....and dyno/street tune that him and a few other people put together for it...
Let it sit warm up for a few min before driving and your off....the only issue I came across was really slow highway speeds in 6th gear....
The only thing that would prevent me from being able to drive that car ever day was the exhaust setup....bullets right off the collectors and no cross over.
I have another friend with the trex and forged 346...with a quiet exhaut he drives this car everyday in the summer with no issues...even takes it on trips.
I think with a GOOD tune...and the right gearing you are all set....the MPG went down but with 430rwhp from stock heads, cam and bolt ons I would be willing to loose some MPG.
Trending Topics
01-21-2006, 12:48 PM
#9
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: S.V. AZ
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Silverhawk_02TA
The definition of driveability varies wildly from person to person. It'll help that you've got an M6 and 4.10's. With a good tune you could drive it to work and back every day, but whether or not you'd actually want to is a different story. Be prepared for surging and bad gas mileage. Also I would imagine that the T-Rex is giving up enough low end that it would actually feel slower than stock in normal driving (i.e.- under 3500 RPM), even with 4.10's. Which brings up another point: you're really going to have to spin it up to take advantage of the power of that cam, so be prepared.
Also, make sure you keep your long term goals in mind. The T-Rex was designed as a max effort camshaft for stock heads. This means it's gonna be real tough to find a set of after market heads with higher compression and/or larger valves that will clear that cam without having to flycut the pistons. If you plan on doing heads later, it might be smart to go a little less aggressive with the camshaft.
If you see alot of track time and are just interested in max gains with stock heads the T-Rex may be the cam for you. Just keep in mind that the driveability won't be like stock, and after having to drive it in traffic to work every day for a month or so you might begin regretting your decision. If at all possible, find somebody in your area with that cam (or something similar size) and the same supporting mods as you with a good tune. See if they'll let you drive it for a bit. That's the only way you'll be able to tell for certain if its driveability is going to be an issue for you.
Also, make sure you keep your long term goals in mind. The T-Rex was designed as a max effort camshaft for stock heads. This means it's gonna be real tough to find a set of after market heads with higher compression and/or larger valves that will clear that cam without having to flycut the pistons. If you plan on doing heads later, it might be smart to go a little less aggressive with the camshaft.
If you see alot of track time and are just interested in max gains with stock heads the T-Rex may be the cam for you. Just keep in mind that the driveability won't be like stock, and after having to drive it in traffic to work every day for a month or so you might begin regretting your decision. If at all possible, find somebody in your area with that cam (or something similar size) and the same supporting mods as you with a good tune. See if they'll let you drive it for a bit. That's the only way you'll be able to tell for certain if its driveability is going to be an issue for you.
01-21-2006, 01:59 PM
#10
i have drivin a car with that cam..with a 273 gear..it ran fine no problems what so ever...he drives the car everyday and thats puttin on 200 miles a day..so if you get a nice tune you should be fine
01-25-2006, 07:56 PM
#16
10 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cali/Bay Area
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also have this cam, but I recommend you follow Silverhawks advice. I gurantee you the Trex does not drive like stock. Yes, it could be a DD with a good tune as I have, but for me, if I drove mine everyday I would look at something smaller with more Tq down low, in fact, I am looking at a different cam and it is much smaller. I bet I can match my track times as well with a smaller cam. I'm not sure what the infactuation is with large cams and DD's but to each there own. The Trex really shines from 5.5K - 7K+ RPM and is a good track cam if thats your goal though. I'm not putting down the cam, I love it actually for what I do, but I'm starting to drive it more on the street now and I miss the bottom end TQ I had with other cams. It does buck a bit on the highway at lower RPM's to. Those would be my only complaints.
01-25-2006, 08:08 PM
#17
well since i have had the cam the longest of anyone and i have done everything with the car you can imagine ima put in my imput, the only time you get surge is under 2000rpm with a load on my car, and that is because it hasnt been tuned for drivability, on the interstate at 1800rpm in 6th cruising i dont get any surge, as far as no low end i could blow away a set of 325 et radials from 2500rpms so its got all the low end i require, i daily drove my car for 4 months in heavy baton rouge traffic every morning and afternoon going to and from LSU, never regreted having it for a minute. i was getting very respectable gas mileage for such a huge cam and considering the car runs 10's with the swap of the rear tires. there are very good aftermarket heads out now that will bolt on without flycutting using this cam.
oh and 4.10's were fine but 4.56's rule on the street
oh and 4.10's were fine but 4.56's rule on the street
01-25-2006, 08:30 PM
#18
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DanZ28
I also have this cam, but I recommend you follow Silverhawks advice. I gurantee you the Trex does not drive like stock. Yes, it could be a DD with a good tune as I have, but for me, if I drove mine everyday I would look at something smaller with more Tq down low, in fact, I am looking at a different cam and it is much smaller. I bet I can match my track times as well with a smaller cam. I'm not sure what the infactuation is with large cams and DD's but to each there own. The Trex really shines from 5.5K - 7K+ RPM and is a good track cam if thats your goal though. I'm not putting down the cam, I love it actually for what I do, but I'm starting to drive it more on the street now and I miss the bottom end TQ I had with other cams. It does buck a bit on the highway at lower RPM's to. Those would be my only complaints.
but big dyno numbers dont always mean alot. Like you said to each his own, but i really think too many people are dazzled by huge dyno numbers, Just my opinion but i think you can have ALOT of fun with a smaller,"torquey" cam and still have better driveability and good MPG. Point blank if you want a track car and max effort get it, but i think you would be happier with a smaller cam better suited for stock heads and a 346. 