I saw somewhere on here before about a rule of thumb that a solid roller was like 10 degrees more than a hydraulic when figuring out cam specs. Was wondering if this is the case or is there a different comparison. I know there are too many variables but I am sure there is some kind of info that will get you close.

ex: Hyd 224/244 would equal 234/234 solid??

 

Typically, a solid "acts" like a smaller cam due to faster ramp rates. However, on these larger base circle applications, the difference is not so great. An aggressive hydraulic could be equal to or greater than a tight lash "street" solid roller profile.

 

The large hydraulic I ran in the past was a 257/266 110 and I am looking at a solid 253/259 110. It seems kind of small in my opinion and I want to make sure of what I am getting.

 

Being that it will be alot more involved to do cam swaps with the solid roller setup without having the lifter buckets to hold up the lifters during swaps I want to hit this setup the first time around. Thanks guys.

 

I've heard mixed reviews on this..but can you make a SR setup, live on the street?

 

Yes you can, there are people on here doing that. They just require more attention then HR lifters & i also think life expectancy is reduced.

 

Yea, I knew that you had to adjust the valves a little more often, or at least check the lash. I was curious about oiling at an idle, low rpm's,etc.

 

Low RPM oiling shouldn't be an issue with the newer design lifters. If my heads ever get finished ill let you know how things go.

 

Whats heads you going with?

 

Typically, you lose about 4 degrees duration for every .016" valve lash from the advertised spec with a solid cam. For instance, a 240 degree @ .050" solid with .016" lash would actually come in around 236 degrees @ .050". Again, I say about, and typically. Some manufacturers grind their cams with more aggressive ramp profiles than others and will lose a little less duration, say 1 to 1 1/2 degree.
Comp Cams has a solid roller lifter that has direct pressure lubrication to the roller bearing, but they are very expensive. They were made specifically for long life on the street. Standard solid rollers rely on splash lubrication and generally don't last as long (especially on street cars) as hydraulic rollers. You should inspect the bearings on street solid rollers at least once a year and do periodic valve lash adjustments. If you notice the valve lash adjustments not holding, obviously something's wrong.

 

Thank you. We are going with a set of Crower 1:8 rockers. While on the subject. What is the best way to adjust lash or atleast know you are on the base circle? In the past I would spin motor until rocker came all the way up and I would go alittle past that. Some like the full lift and then one full revolution on the crank. Thanks again for the help.

 

EOIC is the method of choice for most builders. That is, Exhaust Open Intake Close.

Rotate the engine until an exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake lash for that cylinder. Continue to rotate the engine until the intake valve opens all the way and then starts to go back down (close). Then set the exhaust lash. Continue to do this for all cylinders.

 

Thank you.

 

Now knowing the difference between the 2 types of cams how does the addition of a 1.8 rocker over a 1.7 change things? I would assume it would increase your lift/duration to minimize the effect of going solid roller???

 

It also moves the pushrod cup in closer to the rocker's fulcrum resulting in more back and forth motion rather than up and down.

 

After all the problems you had before with cams, I can't believe you are already changing it!

 

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!

Please get someone to make this a sticky!

I have to explain this procedure over the phone COUNTLESS times every week for customers (or tech help theives ) to check lifter preload or lash...

Thanks,
Shane

 

Any body know whats involved in changing to a bigger cam in the L99 motor with the AFM,VVt ? is it just cam and lifters ?