Solid roller/hydraulic
10-24-2008, 07:49 PM
#1
Solid roller/hydraulic I saw somewhere on here before about a rule of thumb that a solid roller was like 10 degrees more than a hydraulic when figuring out cam specs. Was wondering if this is the case or is there a different comparison. I know there are too many variables but I am sure there is some kind of info that will get you close.
ex: Hyd 224/244 would equal 234/234 solid??
ex: Hyd 224/244 would equal 234/234 solid??
10-24-2008, 08:14 PM
#2
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Typically, a solid "acts" like a smaller cam due to faster ramp rates. However, on these larger base circle applications, the difference is not so great. An aggressive hydraulic could be equal to or greater than a tight lash "street" solid roller profile.
10-26-2008, 10:34 AM
#6
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10-28-2008, 06:31 PM
#10
Typically, you lose about 4 degrees duration for every .016" valve lash from the advertised spec with a solid cam. For instance, a 240 degree @ .050" solid with .016" lash would actually come in around 236 degrees @ .050". Again, I say about, and typically. Some manufacturers grind their cams with more aggressive ramp profiles than others and will lose a little less duration, say 1 to 1 1/2 degree.
Comp Cams has a solid roller lifter that has direct pressure lubrication to the roller bearing, but they are very expensive. They were made specifically for long life on the street. Standard solid rollers rely on splash lubrication and generally don't last as long (especially on street cars) as hydraulic rollers. You should inspect the bearings on street solid rollers at least once a year and do periodic valve lash adjustments. If you notice the valve lash adjustments not holding, obviously something's wrong.
Comp Cams has a solid roller lifter that has direct pressure lubrication to the roller bearing, but they are very expensive. They were made specifically for long life on the street. Standard solid rollers rely on splash lubrication and generally don't last as long (especially on street cars) as hydraulic rollers. You should inspect the bearings on street solid rollers at least once a year and do periodic valve lash adjustments. If you notice the valve lash adjustments not holding, obviously something's wrong.
10-28-2008, 06:39 PM
#11
Typically, you lose about 4 degrees duration for every .016" valve lash from the advertised spec with a solid cam. For instance, a 240 degree @ .050" solid with .016" lash would actually come in around 236 degrees @ .050". Again, I say about, and typically. Some manufacturers grind their cams with more aggressive ramp profiles than others and will lose a little less duration, say 1 to 1 1/2 degree.
Comp Cams has a solid roller lifter that has direct pressure lubrication to the roller bearing, but they are very expensive. They were made specifically for long life on the street. Standard solid rollers rely on splash lubrication and generally don't last as long (especially on street cars) as hydraulic rollers. You should inspect the bearings on street solid rollers at least once a year and do periodic valve lash adjustments. If you notice the valve lash adjustments not holding, obviously something's wrong.
Comp Cams has a solid roller lifter that has direct pressure lubrication to the roller bearing, but they are very expensive. They were made specifically for long life on the street. Standard solid rollers rely on splash lubrication and generally don't last as long (especially on street cars) as hydraulic rollers. You should inspect the bearings on street solid rollers at least once a year and do periodic valve lash adjustments. If you notice the valve lash adjustments not holding, obviously something's wrong.
Thank you. We are going with a set of Crower 1:8 rockers. While on the subject. What is the best way to adjust lash or atleast know you are on the base circle? In the past I would spin motor until rocker came all the way up and I would go alittle past that. Some like the full lift and then one full revolution on the crank. Thanks again for the help.
10-28-2008, 08:07 PM
#12
EOIC is the method of choice for most builders. That is, Exhaust Open Intake Close.
Rotate the engine until an exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake lash for that cylinder. Continue to rotate the engine until the intake valve opens all the way and then starts to go back down (close). Then set the exhaust lash. Continue to do this for all cylinders.
Rotate the engine until an exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake lash for that cylinder. Continue to rotate the engine until the intake valve opens all the way and then starts to go back down (close). Then set the exhaust lash. Continue to do this for all cylinders.
11-10-2008, 09:45 PM
#17
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EOIC is the method of choice for most builders. That is, Exhaust Open Intake Close.
Rotate the engine until an exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake lash for that cylinder. Continue to rotate the engine until the intake valve opens all the way and then starts to go back down (close). Then set the exhaust lash. Continue to do this for all cylinders.
Rotate the engine until an exhaust valve just starts to open, then set the intake lash for that cylinder. Continue to rotate the engine until the intake valve opens all the way and then starts to go back down (close). Then set the exhaust lash. Continue to do this for all cylinders.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
Please get someone to make this a sticky!
I have to explain this procedure over the phone COUNTLESS times every week for customers (or tech help theives
) to check lifter preload or lash...Thanks,
Shane
