Coolant System Voltage
04-08-2018, 09:57 PM
#22
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04-09-2018, 12:22 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n
That sounds like my original statement , coincides with everything postedLol great minds
Originally Posted by G Atsma
He said PROPYLENE glycol. Coolant is usually ETHYLENE glycol. He did NOT reiterate your statement.
But I do agree we were basically saying the same thing. Almost violently agreeing.
04-09-2018, 02:35 PM
#25
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Propylene Glycol = AL Hi Jake, yes I too support/use Propylene based coolant, AMS's Yellow.
My reason is more related to the AL Radiators/AL Crankcase/AL cylinder heads fitted in Racing Cars.
MANY coolants are MORE suited for use in Iron Blocks/Brass Radiators.
The more MODERN Organic coolant is NOT RATED for use in Brass Radiators.
Lance
My reason is more related to the AL Radiators/AL Crankcase/AL cylinder heads fitted in Racing Cars.
MANY coolants are MORE suited for use in Iron Blocks/Brass Radiators.
The more MODERN Organic coolant is NOT RATED for use in Brass Radiators.
Lance
04-09-2018, 05:14 PM
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Pretty much what lance said. Ethylene glycol is a two carbon, two -OH group. Its almost like a two carbon sugar. Propylene glycol is a three carbon chain with two -OH groups. Its used as industrial antifreeze/coolant. Its also used in foods as a combination sweetener and emulsifier, and in shampoos as a "humectant".
04-09-2018, 06:25 PM
#27
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Peak antifreeze is prop glycol IIRC,, thats why its the non poison stuff.
Don't care what you use for a coolant,, if any water is present it will eventually react with metal and oxygen and make rust..
Only answer is to keep it changed and clean. One bit I have done which seems to help or at least I convinced myself it has,, is to put a good ground from each part of the motor that sees coolant, including the radiator to a common ground point. sometimes the vibration control on the radiator insulates it so it can become a anode/electrode in the equation.. YMMV
Don't care what you use for a coolant,, if any water is present it will eventually react with metal and oxygen and make rust..
Only answer is to keep it changed and clean. One bit I have done which seems to help or at least I convinced myself it has,, is to put a good ground from each part of the motor that sees coolant, including the radiator to a common ground point. sometimes the vibration control on the radiator insulates it so it can become a anode/electrode in the equation.. YMMV
04-10-2018, 09:30 AM
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Radiator Grounds Hi PDX, GREAT TECH, the "grounding" of the radiator to the crankcase/head.
YES, this method will NOT allow the Coolant Voltage to be high.
AGAIN, too simple of a fix, too low cost to be important in engine life increases. (joke)
The PDX report, the first about Coolant Voltage Correction Method WON him a FREE set of E-3 SparkPlugs.
They will be shipped to you for free if you supply your address/heat range requested ?
Lance
YES, this method will NOT allow the Coolant Voltage to be high.
AGAIN, too simple of a fix, too low cost to be important in engine life increases. (joke)
The PDX report, the first about Coolant Voltage Correction Method WON him a FREE set of E-3 SparkPlugs.
They will be shipped to you for free if you supply your address/heat range requested ?
Lance
04-11-2018, 01:32 AM
#29
Where do you measure the voltage? From the block to the radiator?
With the engine at idle, or just with the key on?
With the engine at idle, or just with the key on?
04-11-2018, 12:11 PM
#30
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Measure voltage between coolant (in radiator neck) and:
- engine block,
- vehicle chassis,
- battery negative terminal;
i.e. 3 measurements.
Then measure voltage drop between engine block and battery negative terminal.
- engine block,
- vehicle chassis,
- battery negative terminal;
i.e. 3 measurements.
Then measure voltage drop between engine block and battery negative terminal.
04-12-2018, 11:00 AM
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VE Labs Anaheim, CA. Hi Joe, great report on measurement method.
I "strip" the insulation off a copper wire about 3", the probe used for the coolant side.
There is another report by, VE Labs in Anaheim, CA. with great tech about Coolant Voltage.
Summit offers Radiator Drain Plug Anodes.
Lance
I "strip" the insulation off a copper wire about 3", the probe used for the coolant side.
There is another report by, VE Labs in Anaheim, CA. with great tech about Coolant Voltage.
Summit offers Radiator Drain Plug Anodes.
Lance
08-08-2018, 11:51 AM
#33
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09-23-2018, 10:15 PM
#34
I have an LS2 and an aluminum radiator. After about 8 years and only 5,500 miles, the aluminum radiator started leaking. When I pulling the radiator it was determined that most likely free voltage cause damage to the radiator. Installed new radiator filled with tap water (soft). Measured voltage from - battery to water. 0.6VDC. After turning on all accessories and lights on, I got the same measurement of VDC. Turn engine off, same measurement. Disconnect + terminal from battery....same measurement. I have not added any coolant yet but is seeing 0.5-0.6VDC “normal” without having the + terminal connected? The previous radiator always ran DexCool. I’m using a quality voltmeter. I have multiple grounds between battery, block, heads, tranny, body, frame and roll cage.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
09-24-2018, 11:33 PM
#36
thanks.
09-26-2018, 11:20 AM
#37
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Volta = battery = Rad/Engine Hi NSW, Volta invented the Battery (1794) WITH YOUR OWN measurement of .6 Volts as stated, your application (Rad/Engine).
This is NOT good for radiator core life. (.6 volts)
I WOULD trust 200+ YEARS of proven "tech"
Lance
This is NOT good for radiator core life. (.6 volts)
I WOULD trust 200+ YEARS of proven "tech"
Lance
09-26-2018, 06:24 PM
#38
Yes, I understand. I understand that .6VDC is bad. The question is how do I get rid of it? There is nothing attached to the + post of my battery. Other than the battery in the radio in the dash, there’s no other power source onboard. How in the heck do I get rid of this .6VDC. I’ve attached a ground from the battery to the water in the radiator and I still get .4VDC.