Things they dont tell you about building a stroker..
Originally Posted by T/A Medic
i had .0025~ clearances on my mains last built motor and i had GREAT psi when it was cold... all nice and high, 60 at idle, soon as everything was up to optemp ... i had 16-18 at idle and no more than 42 at WOT...
Also I only use coated bearing from Calico Coatings,they have great prices and customer service, cheap insurance. Sometimes you have to buy multiple sets( STD, .001 and .001 Over Size) to get the proper clearance, so you have .001 to play with either way and sometimes mix matching halfs is neccessary, don't worry about out of round if it's .0005 or less. But I probably would not mix a half of a .001 and a half of a .001 OS, that would probably be a bit too much out of round.
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From: harrisburg, pa
is it possible to change main bearings in a car with a k-member? lots of room now. loosen the covers, drop the pan and do one at a time then torque? I havent fired it up yet since ive been waiting for the 90mm tb. we discussed .001 undersized...but decided not to. oh this sucks...looks like alot of 20w50 mobil one if I dont.
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
is it possible to change main bearings in a car with a k-member? lots of room now. loosen the covers, drop the pan and do one at a time then torque? I havent fired it up yet since ive been waiting for the 90mm tb. we discussed .001 undersized...but decided not to. oh this sucks...looks like alot of 20w50 mobil one if I dont.
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
yeah you are right..just babbling..****..lots of work
Nothing ever gets done on these damn things. We get close, then have to do one more thing.
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From: harrisburg, pa
Ok. we fired it up for the first time...more stuff to add to this list.
TPIS 90mm Throttle body top bolt hole is tapped to a size different than the LSX intake TB bolts and the factory TB bolts...had to go digging for one..coarse thread..WHY? The little tube that comes with it is for coolant bypass..no instructions to say thats what it for.....oh and no vacuum connection for valve cover breather like stock...put a filter on it. Rubber SLP bellows did stretch over it.
I still laugh at the comp cams add for 1.75 and 1.85 adjustable rockers need no vavle cover clearancing...they werent even close to fitting.
Kooks headers didnt fit for **** until everything was tightened...now they fit perfect..go figure.
Car idled okay with 40psi oil pressure at idle. Guess .0024 bearing clearance is ok.
Off to the alignment shop and dyno next week.
TPIS 90mm Throttle body top bolt hole is tapped to a size different than the LSX intake TB bolts and the factory TB bolts...had to go digging for one..coarse thread..WHY? The little tube that comes with it is for coolant bypass..no instructions to say thats what it for.....oh and no vacuum connection for valve cover breather like stock...put a filter on it. Rubber SLP bellows did stretch over it.
I still laugh at the comp cams add for 1.75 and 1.85 adjustable rockers need no vavle cover clearancing...they werent even close to fitting.
Kooks headers didnt fit for **** until everything was tightened...now they fit perfect..go figure.
Car idled okay with 40psi oil pressure at idle. Guess .0024 bearing clearance is ok.
Off to the alignment shop and dyno next week.
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Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
do you know what a 242/250 .595/.595 109 cam idles like? NICE
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From: harrisburg, pa
Another_User if you heard my car run you would be embarrased by your ignorance.
The car sounds wicked with the cam. It isnt even tuned yet. Mikey emailed me a program to get me to the dyno. Car idles perfect. Sounds incredible. Everyones jaw drops when they hear it...kooks LTs..no cats...slp loudmouth..its loud and mean. More looks and thumbs up than you can imagine.
Drove the car around about 150 break in miles and its drives good enough to be a daily driver like I wanted. Very nice in traffic. Spec S3 clutch works great. Sure its not like a stock car but it is very acceptable. Maybe wish I would have went with a bigger cam. It freakin shakes the ground. Valvetrain is dead quiet. Car is running perfect and it isnt even tuned....wow.
2nd gear is like 1st gear was...useless..smokes the tires in 3rd. My advice..do a stroker with a big cam.
Removing the fuel tank and installing the race pump is a bitch. Rearend and exhaust are out now. Dyno numbers soon. Maybe its a pooch but im happy.
The car sounds wicked with the cam. It isnt even tuned yet. Mikey emailed me a program to get me to the dyno. Car idles perfect. Sounds incredible. Everyones jaw drops when they hear it...kooks LTs..no cats...slp loudmouth..its loud and mean. More looks and thumbs up than you can imagine.
Drove the car around about 150 break in miles and its drives good enough to be a daily driver like I wanted. Very nice in traffic. Spec S3 clutch works great. Sure its not like a stock car but it is very acceptable. Maybe wish I would have went with a bigger cam. It freakin shakes the ground. Valvetrain is dead quiet. Car is running perfect and it isnt even tuned....wow.
2nd gear is like 1st gear was...useless..smokes the tires in 3rd. My advice..do a stroker with a big cam.
Removing the fuel tank and installing the race pump is a bitch. Rearend and exhaust are out now. Dyno numbers soon. Maybe its a pooch but im happy.
I will one add thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread that is a critical factor when assembling a stroker.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.
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From: harrisburg, pa
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
I will one add thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread that is a critical factor when assembling a stroker.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.
I would think degreeing a cam with hydraulic lifters would be a no-no. I always replaced the #1 intake lifter with a solid to degree with.
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
Ok guys..here is last nights saga.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
Yeah, that's why the C5R uses an aluminum block, because they blow up easy 
Originally Posted by Another_User
A dump truck with 2 cylinders out? If I ever get the inkling to make a stroker motor I will surely buy a 6.0 short block. Much much easier. Yeah yeah, iron block adds weight. The iron block also isn't going to blow up as easy. I would be a little concerned about the overbore on those sleeves. Especially on a high performance stroker.
How about this one - 6L blocks only come with 1 hole for the alternator. AND there is only a place to drill the 2nd one, nothing for the 3rd one. I will find out soon how well this works with a blower mounting bracket..... 