Things they dont tell you about building a stroker..
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: harrisburg, pa
Things they dont tell you about building a stroker.. Just think its funny all the little **** things that make cars suck. Here are some tips from my rebuild. Yours may be different.
Got $250 ARP head studs and one of the nuts comes unthreaded. Dont realize it until you have the heads started.
Adding Double roller chain moves the oil pump pickup forward. Needed to modify pickup bracket, bend tube, and dent the oil pan tray where the oil level sensor goes in since it was hitting the raised up windage tray thanks to ARP.
Metal is aluminum..need to make steel brackets for dial indicators magnetic bases.
#8 piston should come notched for reluctor wheel clearance...look real close because they dont mark it in the box...tiny
Get a spiral lock removal tool
Cometic head gaskets arent marked at all. Make sure you dont cover the water passages.
SLP double roller needs the lower sprocket pressed on/off to advance/retard.
Experts recommend minimum 42# injectors for a 600hp NA LS1 but preferable 57#s so they are not anywhere near their limit. Can someone tune them? Not 30#SVO.
Front oil gallery plug is on national GM backorder...been waiting 2 weeks. $1.50
Still waiting for 90mm TB and March balancer...backorder
LSX intake for $800+ does not come with port gaskets
Dont clean gasket surfaces with silicon carbide disc.
97-98LS1 blocks shouldnt be bored to 3.905...oh well...
Ring gaps from diamond are 16/14 NA 18/16 small power adder.
$1200 Kooks Stainless headers dont come with gaskets and bolts
Z06 PCV upgrade isnt too bad.
Run your head studs again after they sit...they back off.
Push crank forward while torquing main studs
Make sure oil pan is forward.
Im sure i'll think of more...feel free to add.
Got $250 ARP head studs and one of the nuts comes unthreaded. Dont realize it until you have the heads started.
Adding Double roller chain moves the oil pump pickup forward. Needed to modify pickup bracket, bend tube, and dent the oil pan tray where the oil level sensor goes in since it was hitting the raised up windage tray thanks to ARP.
Metal is aluminum..need to make steel brackets for dial indicators magnetic bases.
#8 piston should come notched for reluctor wheel clearance...look real close because they dont mark it in the box...tiny
Get a spiral lock removal tool
Cometic head gaskets arent marked at all. Make sure you dont cover the water passages.
SLP double roller needs the lower sprocket pressed on/off to advance/retard.
Experts recommend minimum 42# injectors for a 600hp NA LS1 but preferable 57#s so they are not anywhere near their limit. Can someone tune them? Not 30#SVO.
Front oil gallery plug is on national GM backorder...been waiting 2 weeks. $1.50
Still waiting for 90mm TB and March balancer...backorder
LSX intake for $800+ does not come with port gaskets
Dont clean gasket surfaces with silicon carbide disc.
97-98LS1 blocks shouldnt be bored to 3.905...oh well...
Ring gaps from diamond are 16/14 NA 18/16 small power adder.
$1200 Kooks Stainless headers dont come with gaskets and bolts
Z06 PCV upgrade isnt too bad.
Run your head studs again after they sit...they back off.
Push crank forward while torquing main studs
Make sure oil pan is forward.
Im sure i'll think of more...feel free to add.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,205
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From: harrisburg, pa
By the way, these guys that build short and long blocks earn their money...trust me. I would buy from AP Engineering, Keith Kraft or More performance if I wasnt building this at home with my buddies.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: harrisburg, pa
Oh yeah...notching the block because of coring shift...Callies rod bolt hit on 4" stroke.
get a service manual.
Using 20w50 dino oil to assemble...5W30 dino to start it up...switching to synthetic
bought an engine block heater for $30...warm oil when its chilly out.
get a service manual.
Using 20w50 dino oil to assemble...5W30 dino to start it up...switching to synthetic
bought an engine block heater for $30...warm oil when its chilly out.
Sam you sound a tad bitter 
Thanks for tips. As for most shops, they most certainly earn their money but for the most part have already been through what you've been through, so they know exactly what to look for. Goes with any type of experience...
Thanks for tips. As for most shops, they most certainly earn their money but for the most part have already been through what you've been through, so they know exactly what to look for. Goes with any type of experience...
good list, I've experienced about all of those issues too. This further illustrates that building an engine is alot more involved than slapping a few parts together. Those shops that sell complete engine packages know about all issues, and usually the cost of buying one complete is more than fair since you can avoid the headaches.
Tony
Tony
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Joined: Mar 2002
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I found out the Cometic don't have ANYTHING on them. I was assembling a SBF, I have built tons, but have always taken Fel-Pro's "FRONT" stamped into the gasket for granted. I called Keith Craft, whom I bought the gaskets from, ask them. "You can't just line the water holes up"..lol. OK, how many Fords have you guys built? Called a few friends and let instinct guide me....whew, guessed right!
Good to know about the timing chain...never would have guessed that.
Good to know about the timing chain...never would have guessed that.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: harrisburg, pa
Ok guys..here is last nights saga.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: harrisburg, pa
Here is a recap of the combo in case it helps someone out:
Callies 4" forged stroker crank
Callies Pro-I beam LS1 rods
ARP 12 pt bolts
Diamond pistons 11504
Diamond rings
Federal Mogul race bearings
1998 LS1 Block 60k miles
Hone Bore size to 3.9055
Hot tank
Deck block
Check Line bore
Chased all threads except 2.0mm pitch ones..couldnt find tap anywhere.
Rob bearing clearance .0025
Main Bearing Clearance .0024
Crankshaft endplay .0055
Rod side to side .015
Top Ring gap .018
Second ring gap .016
Notched Block for Rod bolt clearance
notched #8 piston for reluctor wheel clearance
ARP Main studs w/moly 60lbs inner, 50lbs outer, 19lbs side
Opened holes up on windage tray for studs
Tim at comp cams says adjust the 1.75 Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rockers with .008-.010" preload with the 875-16 R lifters. Starting on the longblock today.
Cometic Head gasket .043"
Rapid Stage 2 5.7 heads
1.75 Pro Mags
875-16 R lifters
SLP double roller
ARP head studs to 65lbft
BIG cam
piston to valve of .165" exhaust
Callies 4" forged stroker crank
Callies Pro-I beam LS1 rods
ARP 12 pt bolts
Diamond pistons 11504
Diamond rings
Federal Mogul race bearings
1998 LS1 Block 60k miles
Hone Bore size to 3.9055
Hot tank
Deck block
Check Line bore
Chased all threads except 2.0mm pitch ones..couldnt find tap anywhere.
Rob bearing clearance .0025
Main Bearing Clearance .0024
Crankshaft endplay .0055
Rod side to side .015
Top Ring gap .018
Second ring gap .016
Notched Block for Rod bolt clearance
notched #8 piston for reluctor wheel clearance
ARP Main studs w/moly 60lbs inner, 50lbs outer, 19lbs side
Opened holes up on windage tray for studs
Tim at comp cams says adjust the 1.75 Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rockers with .008-.010" preload with the 875-16 R lifters. Starting on the longblock today.
Cometic Head gasket .043"
Rapid Stage 2 5.7 heads
1.75 Pro Mags
875-16 R lifters
SLP double roller
ARP head studs to 65lbft
BIG cam
piston to valve of .165" exhaust
Pretty sure you can use a standard 5/8" plug in the front of the block. Those ring gaps are for your bore size, and should not apply to every bore size and combination. File fitting rings sucks 