Nice intake manifold... - The ITB thread
11-17-2006, 01:08 PM
#61
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Update.
I went to SEMA, and the guys who build Higgin's intake were there. They have intakes for almost anything you can imagine. I have lots of pics
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
I went to SEMA, and the guys who build Higgin's intake were there. They have intakes for almost anything you can imagine. I have lots of pics
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
11-17-2006, 01:11 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
Update.
I went to SEMA, and the guys who build Higgin's intake were there. They have intakes for almost anything you can imagine. I have lots of pics
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
I went to SEMA, and the guys who build Higgin's intake were there. They have intakes for almost anything you can imagine. I have lots of pics
I found out that Sam is also doing his own ITB manifold now. Its a cast unit with lots of neat features. I don't have pics yet. But I hear its pretty slick.
11-17-2006, 05:10 PM
#63
Originally Posted by topperge
And yes, the pricing shipped to your door is still right around $4k the US dollar has taken a dive in the last 6 months raising the price by almost $500.
11-17-2006, 05:15 PM
#64
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have a look at HRS manifolds for ls1 ls2 chev 350 Hi guys
all great manifolds have a look at Hocking racing shops manifolds we have developed the cross ram for LS1 , LS2 Chev 350 8 throttle Body unit even a fly by wire unit for Ls2, we are looking for a reseller in the USA so have a look
www.hockingracingshop.net
all great manifolds have a look at Hocking racing shops manifolds we have developed the cross ram for LS1 , LS2 Chev 350 8 throttle Body unit even a fly by wire unit for Ls2, we are looking for a reseller in the USA so have a look
www.hockingracingshop.net
Last edited by hockos; 11-17-2006 at 06:20 PM. Reason: more photos
11-20-2006, 12:06 PM
#65
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I know it would be much easier to order the harrop, but for someone looking to take on a major project with plenty of time what all would be involved with fabricating something like this? Not to mention save some $$$.
What would be the ideal tb size for lets say a h/c 346? I know Harrop has the 52 and 55mm versions available. What would be done with the sensors, TPS and MAP? What would be some ideas for adapting an efficient filtering system without restricting flow and still maintaining adaquate clearance?
Things I've noticed in random order.
1. Fabricating the plates for the tbs and adaptors to mate to the intake ports
2. Drilling and tapping for injectors
3. Fabricating adapters for the tbs to intake ports
4. Fabricating throttle linkage
5. Moving sensors
I know I'm missing a bunch here and would really appreciate serious help. Hopefully we can avoid people saying, "If you have to ask than you can't do it." Just trying to learn here.
What would be the ideal tb size for lets say a h/c 346? I know Harrop has the 52 and 55mm versions available. What would be done with the sensors, TPS and MAP? What would be some ideas for adapting an efficient filtering system without restricting flow and still maintaining adaquate clearance?
Things I've noticed in random order.
1. Fabricating the plates for the tbs and adaptors to mate to the intake ports
2. Drilling and tapping for injectors
3. Fabricating adapters for the tbs to intake ports
4. Fabricating throttle linkage
5. Moving sensors
I know I'm missing a bunch here and would really appreciate serious help. Hopefully we can avoid people saying, "If you have to ask than you can't do it." Just trying to learn here.
11-20-2006, 12:23 PM
#66
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You've asked questions that can be answered in a lot of different ways, and they are generally different for each application. I'll do my best to help, but realize my ITB setup is for a different application, thus is different throughout.
As for plate/bore size, I can't begin to help you there. There are just so many variables. With a sub 7,000rpm, just head/cam 5.7l, I'd say 52mm is plenty. Mine are 48mm, and I have much less displacement per cylinder, but am running to 8,000rpm and hoping to develop 100hp/L (Normally aspirated). The TPS sensor is generally just placed at the end of one of the throttle shafts. It doesn't need to be changed in any way, just make sure it still gets a reading. My ITBs were cast so that at the end of one of my ITB rows, there is a GM TPS port. So basically just like stock, my throttle shaft is already cut, and my GM TPS sensor bolts right on, and plugs right in. Most ITBs have either a vacuum line running from each TB bore, or a single vacuum line from each row of TBs. Mine are setup to have a single vacuum port from each row of 3 TBS, so I have 2 vacuum ports total. All I need to do is take both ports, and run a line to a common vacuum plenum. From here I can attach the stock MAP sensor, and all of the other vacuum operated systems (PCV, brakes, FPR, IAC, etc).
What I get is that you're trying to build your own ITB system. If I were you, I'd start with some sportbike ITBs. They come in a range of sizes, and are generally 4 in a row, perfect for a LSX. They will already have vacuum ports, injector bosses, and a port for the TPS sensor. From hear you'll need to fabricate the adapters and plates (Hardest part). Then you just need to test and tune really. By doing this, the ITB setup from the bike is cheap, and it solves a lot of your small problems (Sensors, throttle linkage, injectors).
As for plate/bore size, I can't begin to help you there. There are just so many variables. With a sub 7,000rpm, just head/cam 5.7l, I'd say 52mm is plenty. Mine are 48mm, and I have much less displacement per cylinder, but am running to 8,000rpm and hoping to develop 100hp/L (Normally aspirated). The TPS sensor is generally just placed at the end of one of the throttle shafts. It doesn't need to be changed in any way, just make sure it still gets a reading. My ITBs were cast so that at the end of one of my ITB rows, there is a GM TPS port. So basically just like stock, my throttle shaft is already cut, and my GM TPS sensor bolts right on, and plugs right in. Most ITBs have either a vacuum line running from each TB bore, or a single vacuum line from each row of TBs. Mine are setup to have a single vacuum port from each row of 3 TBS, so I have 2 vacuum ports total. All I need to do is take both ports, and run a line to a common vacuum plenum. From here I can attach the stock MAP sensor, and all of the other vacuum operated systems (PCV, brakes, FPR, IAC, etc).
What I get is that you're trying to build your own ITB system. If I were you, I'd start with some sportbike ITBs. They come in a range of sizes, and are generally 4 in a row, perfect for a LSX. They will already have vacuum ports, injector bosses, and a port for the TPS sensor. From hear you'll need to fabricate the adapters and plates (Hardest part). Then you just need to test and tune really. By doing this, the ITB setup from the bike is cheap, and it solves a lot of your small problems (Sensors, throttle linkage, injectors).
11-20-2006, 01:54 PM
#67
Sounds good thanks. The sportbike ITB setup sounds like a really good hint. I'm not going to start it right now, but I've been throwing the idea around for a while. Right now I just need some $$$, which is the biggest setback. Hopefully I can fix that problem soon and get started at some point within the next few months.
11-20-2006, 03:55 PM
#68
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I'm deffinatlly gunna take pics through the process. I'll be posting a write up on it as well. I have to do all this for Harrop anyway since they are awaiting my fitment results as well. I don't see a problem fitting the intake alone under the cowl.
Like I mentioned earlier in the thread, the Harrop air ***'y sucks ***. Dyno results givin to me by Harrop show the filter boxes knocking the power all the way back to FAST 90 levels. I ordered my intake with no boxes and no plate to attach the boxes to. I plan to figure out filtering once I see how much room is left under the hood. I figure I can come up with something better, but I'll have to see what room will allow.
Like I mentioned earlier in the thread, the Harrop air ***'y sucks ***. Dyno results givin to me by Harrop show the filter boxes knocking the power all the way back to FAST 90 levels. I ordered my intake with no boxes and no plate to attach the boxes to. I plan to figure out filtering once I see how much room is left under the hood. I figure I can come up with something better, but I'll have to see what room will allow.
Here is some pics of it with our air filter solution.
11-20-2006, 04:30 PM
#70
Originally Posted by 30thta436
They fit under the cowl of an Fbody fine. I have test fitted one. It will be on and tuned next week.
Here is some pics of it with our air filter solution.
Here is some pics of it with our air filter solution.
11-20-2006, 05:01 PM
#71
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Glad it all fit good. Kinda relieves some worries I had. After seeing your solution for filtration, I kinda wish I'd have left the backing plates on. Seeings how I didn't, I'll have to look into some other method. Probablly still going to be individual filters on each trumpet for me. They'll provide a little more filter area than the above pics, and shouldn't need to be cleaned as often. However, I'm sure it will cost more. One question though, is the filter smooshed up against the trumpet? or is there space in between? I was pondering something similar, but I was going to make it more like a valve cover. This would give at least 1 or 2 inches between the plate and the filter and allow all the trumpets to feed from the large filter. I'd love to hear about your results with and without the filter on. Thanks for posting up.
Couldn't you do what you said Beast96z with valve cover idea, but use a filter kind of like the vettes use (thicker, more like a box shape)? That's how I planned on working it out, but then again everything I'm doing right now is theoretical.
Like so:
11-20-2006, 05:10 PM
#72
If you extend it you will have to relocate the coil packs. The trumpet plate is close to the valve cover and close to the coil packs. When I get it on I will post some more pics. I will post the dyno results next week sometime.
11-20-2006, 05:34 PM
#73
Originally Posted by 30thta436
If you extend it you will have to relocate the coil packs. The trumpet plate is close to the valve cover and close to the coil packs. When I get it on I will post some more pics. I will post the dyno results next week sometime.
11-20-2006, 08:43 PM
#75
Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
Got a message back from Hocking. I think I'll be buying one of those. It's way less expensive and I like the throttle linkage setup better, it's much cleaner and doesn't need a cover. Not that I exactly dislike the Harrop lol
11-20-2006, 09:31 PM
#77
11 Bravo:
That is a very nice piece also. Especially since it is cheaper. Do you know the size of the throttle bodies?
By the way, we are still waiting on the crankcase pump. The owner is building a new building for his business. So the pump is postponed until the first of the year. I will keep you updated on it.
That is a very nice piece also. Especially since it is cheaper. Do you know the size of the throttle bodies?
By the way, we are still waiting on the crankcase pump. The owner is building a new building for his business. So the pump is postponed until the first of the year. I will keep you updated on it.
11-20-2006, 09:35 PM
#78
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Very true. I think I'm already going to hit this wall since I have a 2" valve cover. I'll just have to wait till I get everything mocked up and see what I can do. Hopefully your system can be reproduced and it will fit my needs. Thanks for your help.
We are also putting Jezel rockers on with valve cover spacers. the spacers actually increase the clearance, because it moves the valve cover further away from the intake. Its hard to explain, but I think you will be ok.
11-20-2006, 10:24 PM
#79
Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
The linkage runs off a cam in the center. US $3100 shipped.
