What determines the powerband of an engine via intake manifold design (Carb v. LS6)
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What determines the powerband of an engine via intake manifold design (Carb v. LS6)
I tried this in the LS1/LS6 external engine section and didn't have any luck, so I thought I would try and get some input in this section.
What benefits, if any would there be to a carb style intake manifold with a 90mm elbow and throttle body with a single pattern cam, 228/228 .588/.588
vs
an LS6 intake with a 230/224 .588/.581.
the only people I see using the carb style intake are pure race cars with a T-Rex, stokers, and FI guys. Can they be made to be streetable with a small cam? I might be a little too outside the box on this one, but it's not a lot more expensive than an LS6 intake (damn not having an 01 car) and I'd get a lot of attention when I pop the hood.
My main concerns are hood clearance and low end torque. I'm willing to trim my Ultra-Z hood and the cowl if it's needed at all, but I don't have the funds for a Sunoco style Cowl Hood. Also I don't know what the runner size is of either intake manifold, I'm guessing that the LS6 intake has a longer narrower runner that promotes port velocity and low end torque and that the carb style intake has much larger (wider) runners that promote a high volume of flow in the upper RPM band using FI, big cubes, or a monster cam.
I thought it might be a good discussion, and I'd love to have something a little different, but I don't want to actually put a carb on it, cause it's a daily driver.
Thanks in advance
AJ
What benefits, if any would there be to a carb style intake manifold with a 90mm elbow and throttle body with a single pattern cam, 228/228 .588/.588
vs
an LS6 intake with a 230/224 .588/.581.
the only people I see using the carb style intake are pure race cars with a T-Rex, stokers, and FI guys. Can they be made to be streetable with a small cam? I might be a little too outside the box on this one, but it's not a lot more expensive than an LS6 intake (damn not having an 01 car) and I'd get a lot of attention when I pop the hood.
My main concerns are hood clearance and low end torque. I'm willing to trim my Ultra-Z hood and the cowl if it's needed at all, but I don't have the funds for a Sunoco style Cowl Hood. Also I don't know what the runner size is of either intake manifold, I'm guessing that the LS6 intake has a longer narrower runner that promotes port velocity and low end torque and that the carb style intake has much larger (wider) runners that promote a high volume of flow in the upper RPM band using FI, big cubes, or a monster cam.
I thought it might be a good discussion, and I'd love to have something a little different, but I don't want to actually put a carb on it, cause it's a daily driver.
Thanks in advance
AJ
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I also wonder if I can use a traditional carburetor nitrous plate like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Will either the GMPP intake of the Edelbrock Victor Jr fit under an Ultra-Z hood? I'm not scared of using a cut off wheel, but I can't afford a cowl hood.
It's hard for me to believe that no one has used on of these yet. I'm open to any and all suggestions and if I go with this set up I will take lots of pictures and post all of the results.
AJ
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Will either the GMPP intake of the Edelbrock Victor Jr fit under an Ultra-Z hood? I'm not scared of using a cut off wheel, but I can't afford a cowl hood.
It's hard for me to believe that no one has used on of these yet. I'm open to any and all suggestions and if I go with this set up I will take lots of pictures and post all of the results.
AJ
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runner length and runner diameter. with a set length (such as a pre-exisitng design) the only variable is diameter, or sectional area. if possible this area is kept as consistent as possible.
longer and smaller cross section runners are good for torque and short fat runners are better for high-end horsepower, generally speaking. but you already said that.
longer and smaller cross section runners are good for torque and short fat runners are better for high-end horsepower, generally speaking. but you already said that.
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is there anything I can do to help change that, in the cam design? Could a new manifold be designed with a smaller runner cross section to promote better port velocity yet maintain good flow?
Is there anything I could do to modify an existing manifold or would I need my own machine shop to do anything like that?
Thanks
AJ
Is there anything I could do to modify an existing manifold or would I need my own machine shop to do anything like that?
Thanks
AJ
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You guys have hit all the high points. Basically, you can't have it all. The LS6 and the FAST manifolds are the most highly refined intakes on the market that have good broad range torque and HP and that don't fall flat above 6,000 RPM's.
A dual plane traditional intake manifold would probably be no better than the LS6 or FAST through 4,500 RPM's and would be inferior above that. A traditional single plane or sheet metal manifold doesn't begin to really shine until you go above 4,500 RPM's. It's just going to be hard to beat an LS6/LS2/L76/FAST type design for a high performance street driven vehicle.
Steve
A dual plane traditional intake manifold would probably be no better than the LS6 or FAST through 4,500 RPM's and would be inferior above that. A traditional single plane or sheet metal manifold doesn't begin to really shine until you go above 4,500 RPM's. It's just going to be hard to beat an LS6/LS2/L76/FAST type design for a high performance street driven vehicle.
Steve
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Unless....
your high performance street driven hyd roller still gets turned on the regular to 7500-8000 rpm like we like to do
your high performance street driven hyd roller still gets turned on the regular to 7500-8000 rpm like we like to do
i think the success...or lack there of.. of the vic jr setup has proved the design of the fast is a damn good one and shouldnt really be used unless its a screamer. even then... its almost worth more just to go sheet metal or ITB.
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I think the Victor is really good at its intended purpose which is for a budget race car. A Headed T-Rex Car with a 5K stall 4.30 gears, 3100lb race weight, that goes to the track and the street races only would benefit with a Victor over a fast because it doesn't need a lot of low end and it's meant to be a launched at 4800 and the drive home doesn't matter cause it's just a race car. The advantage over a sheet metal or ITB manifold is price. The victor is very cheap, sheet metal and ITB manifolds are about 5x as much money.
How would a port matched dual plane intake with injector bosses drilled compare to an LS6 intake and how much would a machine shop charge to drill the holes for the injectors, I can't help it, I want to be weird, I gotta renew Hot Rod and get rid of Car Craft
AJ
How would a port matched dual plane intake with injector bosses drilled compare to an LS6 intake and how much would a machine shop charge to drill the holes for the injectors, I can't help it, I want to be weird, I gotta renew Hot Rod and get rid of Car Craft
AJ
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Originally Posted by ArrestMeRed99Z28
How would a port matched dual plane intake with injector bosses drilled compare to an LS6 intake and how much would a machine shop charge to drill the holes for the injectors, I can't help it, I want to be weird, I gotta renew Hot Rod and get rid of Car Craft
AJ
Call TRT Performance and ask for a GMPP/Aeromotive/SVO Injector setup. They built one for me. I believe he sends his stuff down to Aaron at IntakeElbows.com..... did a great job, the welding on the blocks looks amazing.