????? Why doesnt it?
A converter with that kinda stall speed is basically a big sponge. If you over converter a car, or motor, it will do just that. Reduce the wheel HP, and decrease the MPH thru the traps.
Not to mention the differences is converter design. Some are built better than others. Two converters with the same advertised stall speeds may perform completely different from each other.
One local guy runnin a car, with 8 sec capability, went 9.5 simply because of the converter. Too loose.
I would leave the motor alone, and try a couple more converters in it. Different stall speeds, and different name brands.

 

Guys what do you expect, ofcourse business partners are going to try and cover each others back on a mistake. Actually many of us on this board can vouch that the first and second motor had never seen any nitrous AT ALL, NONE, ZIP, ZERO. Isn't it funny how these motors are claimed to have a "12 month warrenty" but when they fry the first person they point the finger at is you? Perhaps you try and help this guy out because i'd consider the engine builder very lucky that you were never taken to court. After all these motors are not cheap.

 

You could always hook the nitrous kit up and blast it with some juice to seat those rings..>I know many engine builders that do this on their dyno before finalizing any motor tuning to get consistent pulls to read data from.

 

You'll never win a court case over warranty issues with a performance motor.
Period.

 

not true at all. A friend of mine with a grass drag sled won a case about 5 years back.

 

Dont see it happenin dude. I'm in the biz myself.
What exactly do you tell the judge? I blew my motor up spinnin 8 grand thru the traps?
The fact of the matter is there usually is NO EXPRESSED WARRANTY on performance parts or products.
Even the part manufacturers limit their warranties to DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR CRAFTSMANSHIP. Once you install a performance part, FOR THE MOST PART, there is no warranty.
The exception being cases like Comps recent valve spring disaster. Which could be documented, and specifically pointed at MATERIAL DEFECTS. But, even then, they did not have to reimburse every one for their parts failures, they did it because its good business. They had to to keep selling parts.
BACK TO THE POINT OF THIS THREAD. The motor in question looks like its got too much stall. Without seeing or hearing it, I would say reduce the stall speed and see what it does. Or put the motor on an engine dyno.

 

What injectors are in the car?

 

42 the cam has to be degreed found the potential problem

 

No one covers damage from detonation like that. Not the engine builder and not the piston manufacturer. When you melt a piston down like those were melted it's not the pistons fault or the block's fault! It had way too much compresson in it or got way lean or had way too much timing or all three for all I know. Things like that are not covered under any warranty and never will be. I get engines like that every week and they want me to help represent them against the old engine builder. I can't as it's not their fault. Same with this as I only built the shortblock and after that I have no idea what's done to it.

01blackz28, since you know so much about this car why don't you tell us all what really caused Charlies Wiseco K394A3 pistons to spontaneously combust and melt away. Have you ever heard of someone just driving around and "their pistons melt on them!" I've not seen any NA pistons so far in over 500 engines ever do that under normal circumstances? The piston reps I sent the pics to also laughed out loud on the phone when I said the pistons were out of an NA only street car! No one would even believe that unless there was a severe tuning problem and even then when you hear detonation of that magnitude you usually stop tuning!

How did those "NA-only" use pistons just melt away with normal usage and a normal NA tune in only a few dyno pulls? Remember these are performance 2618 pistons with a very thick deck and much lower ring lands and are used by hundreds of LS1tech members every day. We use them in Houston on cars that routinely run 200-300 shots and I have some that were hit with a 400 many times and they are still here. They're also in cars that I built like the Day's 9 second pump gas hydraulic roller camaro and about 200 more on this website. Now somehow up there in Charlies car they can't even take a few street miles and tuning and they are molten aluminum?

Kind of mysterious isn't that and then you point the finger at me? Well hell you do have 12 posts at least so far!

 

Charlie listen to turbo'd stang as he knows as much as or more about tuning than probably anyone you are going to meet on LS1Tech so maybe he can give you some real help or insights. He has tuned many many LS1s as well as a whole lot of other EFI systems. I still think you have some pretty simple problems but if you are having tuning issues you can smoke anything.

 

I appreciate the kind words, but I'm not all that. I'm a small fish compared to most of these guys.

 

your correct erik the car has a low cranking presure gota degree the cam tomorow and check the ICL if its off it whould cause the low cranking presure.... did a leak down test today and everything is 16% or beter with a cold engine

 

For your ring gaps thats normal Charlie. I would expect you to have over 180 psi depending on lash. I get many engines with weird timing when using the LS1 style double roller sets. It's easy to get them off it seems for people that haven't used them a lot. I was thinking that maybe you had bent some valves but you'd have big leakdown if that happened.

 

Why pull the cam w/o checking the centerline? 150 psi is what a 9.0 motor should crank, youve got the valves hung open or the cam is in wayyyy backed up?

 

gona degree it rite now will post results in a few hrs....

 

doesnt matter, I mean put it in the right way this time, but its not going to tell you now if it was off previously?

 

Next time do it before you slam the engine builder.

 

The first thing I thought of when I saw 150 psi was an excessively late intake valve closing point. You have not disclosed the LSA of your cam and the ICL is unknown. If I were to guess based on your dyno graph, I would also say that your converter shows no signs of coupling up. Even without a lockup clutch, you turbine should approach a point of efficiency that it is very close in speed to the pump. When this happens, your torque curve on a chassis dyno will look very much like a torque curve from an engine dyno. You might need to invest in a better matched converter too.

 

Post the pictures.

 

ICL was 110 cam card calls for 106