Finally got around to making a radio delete plate for the LS1 dash. Ended up cutting some aluminum to shape, drilled the mounting holes, and painted the panel flat black.



Tomorrow, I am going to mount my water temp and oil pressure gauge in the panel.

 

that looks pretty damn clean. Lemme know when that guy is bringin by the car. If you can make it on a Sunday then I should be able to help out. My car is at Mike Miller Performance in Palatine right now getting the floors put in, and the suspension fixed.

But overall the car is lookin damn good, if you can get a ton of paint for my car, the arctic white, i'll pay ya for it.

 

Thanks Jason! Cant wait to see yours done. Let me know when you want to paint it.

Question of the day is...Do I reinstall my 69 z/28 emblems or leave them off? Or I'd at least do the one in the center of the filler panel since I filled the Camaro imprint smooth?

 

i would put back on looked good with them before.

 

id do the one in just the berger panel

 

i'm assuming you got the gauge cluster figured out by now, if not let me know, i did it about three months ago. And for anyone that was asking about the odometer,analog to digital, it works fine as long as it's a 97 cluster even if it's digital.

maaco was usin PPG paint or you bought it? I need to find someone to paint my car too, trying to keep it all budget

 

Painting isnt to hard really

 

Yeah, I hear ya, I know it's not too hard, the problem is the booth. Don't feel like spraying in my garage

 

ya im fortunate to know someone that has a state of the art paint booth. but if i didnt id hand plastic in the garage and shoot.

 

Merim123, Pm sent about a paintjob and Maaco used PPG paint/clear for the high end jobs and Omni for their "budget" jobs

 

Promised awhile ago I would do a write up on my header restoration and after seeing another post on here, I got reminded that I never did. So...

Hooker LT1 Long Tubes...Looks like they were sitting on the bottom of the ocean! Tons of heavy surface rust, but for free, cant complain! Thanks again Carri! You rock!



Here is what you will need, oven cleaner...make sure you soak the header good with the oven clean and make sure you have gloves on too, the rust will come off, let it sit for a couple hours, I sprayed mine and let the headers soak overnight in over cleaner...scotchbrite pad(s), hit it with some soapy water, may need to respray after this step if the rust is really pitted like mine was...VHT header paint...spray as soon as you are done drying the headers off to prevent flash rust. I did 3 light coats of VHT header paint. If you go too heavy, it will flake off. You just want enough to put color on them.



Finished product, looks better than new! And for $6 and a couple hours of work (minus the soaking time), no media blasting, acid dipped, and 2 years later still looking good!

 

those look pretty damn good. I may have to do that if my pacesetters start rusting bad. you're makin me get antsy to get my car finally done.

 

Thanks Jason! I want to see your car done too so I have someone to go with for the LTx shootout this year. btw, that reminds me, we need to find a trailer for our cars!

 

well i got my truck and trailer setup but it's for one car. If you can find a two-car trailer then I could pull it, or I'd use my dad's truck but that's not a real reliable truck and mine is more comfortable.

 

Yeah, makes me a little nervous if I drove down there, stalled the car out with drag radials and 4.10 gears and sprayed it, Id be worried Id be walking home!

 

Talking with a buddy of mine who works at StikerDude and may be doing some "Dick Harrell" look-a-like stripes to go with the spoiler + hood theme. Thinking like a gunmetal silver stripe down the side with a checkered flag fading as the stripe got smaller and then the stripes down the side of the cowl with LT1 written in them in place of the 427.

Another possible "freebie" since Im going to do some bodywork for the guy. What do you guys think?

Also Jeremy came over Saturday and helped wire up the battery in the trunk, so that is finally done. I will grab some pictures tomorrow if the rain holds off. Thats about 40 pounds off the front end and over the rear tire.

 

Looking good. I used John Deere muffler paint on my beat car's Hooker LT's. Hasnt come off yet.

-Dustin-

 

Big thanks to Jeremy Hedman for stopping by the other day and doing my battery relocation on my Camaro. Electrical work scares me! We went off this wiring diagram (although for a LS1, the wiring is the same)



All done, the nose is about 40 pounds lighter! just need an approved battery box and an overflow container and Ill be set. Snapped some pictures today. Again, I was stuck with just my cell phone, so I apologize in advance for the quality. Here is a shot under the hood without the battery and shows how we connected everything under the hood...



A shot of the rear with the shut off switch. Im not sure how I feel about the red handle, may keep an eye open for something a little less bold, wonder if I could paint it black to match?



And a shot of inside the rear hatch. Still need a NHRA approved box though...

 

Also picked up awhile back a used TH350, TCI 3800-4000 stall with a nitrous anit-balloning plate, and a SFI approved flexplate. I am going to have my friend, Steve Scobbee, rebuild the trans with red bands and clutches and send the convertor off to get flush just incase there was any junk thats in the convertor is out.

Here is the Th350 trans with a fancy Lokar dipstick tube



And the guy I bought the trans from gave me this flexplate. Not sure if it will work on a LT1. Anyone know? This all came off a 1970 Camaro btw...

 

i've got a flexplate for you. B&M, let me get some pics of it tomorrow.