Picss

 

Looks good man

 

Thanks guys. The most common question I got was about this. They take FOREVER to get there. Just be patient everyone!

 

Here are my fog lights (8000K). Ill get pics of my Headlights a soon as i get my new headlight motor put in today. Those are 10,000K. Good Job on the right up man. It was very Helpful and Informative and now I'm probably the only guy in my area who has them on a T/A.

Day Time-


Night Time-

 

one of my hid lights stopped working hope to get a free replacement.

 

Hey....just read through the whole thread and I saw only one guy mention it...

Would there be any use to a "bi-xenon" kit, the ones that sell for roughly 80 dollars and specifically advertise low AND high beam filaments in the same light bulb?

Taking into account everything I've read, this is what I'm thinking right now off the top of my head while I form this plan -

+Eurolights housings across all 4

+wire the system such that low beams on keeps all 4 housings lit

+"bi-xenon" HID kit in the high beams

+low beams standard halogen bulb in same color temp range as HID kit (I'm personally thinking that 4500 provides the most logically useful light??)

+aftermarket fog housings (whatever I can find for 50 bucks+has glass housing)

+maybe load housings with 3k kit? (the eurolights website says something vaguely about yellowish light being more useful for bad weather, thats my only basis for this decision)

I was trying to resolve the logistical problems of blinding oncoming drivers and thought that maybe if HID was restricted to the housing that was actually intended to point straight ahead far down the road, it might help with glare? IE, most of the light to the side should be from the outermost housings which would have more standard bulbs in them?

Or am I totally wrong on how the dispersal pattern would be?

I'm guessing that this would also be a means to get around the fact that HID's don't want to flash frequently, it seems these "bi-xenon" kits are designed to account for high/low usage.....


What y'all think? Am I on the right path here? I'd rather just buy the housings and HID bulbs all at once to save money on this project. It also seems more logical to me to have high beams that are actually higher than the lows...

 

while I cannot comment on the specific application - I do have a bi-xenon kit form ebay installed on my motorcycle. When the 'high-beam' portion is on, it alters the angle of the xenon bulb itself (there is a small motor in the bulb base) thus changing the light pattern as it bounces off the reflector

edit: curious if anyone had ever gotten an answer as to which rallylights housings are to be used. The link on the first post goes to the side amber housing....

 

Okay, so given then that it's a motor moving the light....is there any provision for a light "cutoff" other than what your own reflector housing would have? Like some sort of metallic shield over one particular angle of the bulb?

I emailed eurolights with a few questions and they said that it's difficult to fit a properly functioning projector into a 4703/4701 housing....

 

Sorry I took so long.. Yeah it is difficult to fit a projector in 4703's I believe. and I'm pretty sure I've seen people try to make a "cutoff plate" before, but I don't remember how they turned out. Might wanna search around on here & google.

 

Are the HID fogs really bright enough to not even have to use the headlamp low's? If so I am buying these right away! Can some more people chime in? Thanks!!

 

You will hardly be able to tell your lows are on (only reason is because of where the light is projected.. I rode around all night like that one time, pass easily 6-8 cops and not one of them did anything.

 

Any reason why I have problems getting my passenger HID low beam to come on? I have to turn the lights off/on 3-4 times for it to come on. DDMtuning kit

 

You're using the 35W HID Fog kit, right?

I just wonder if it could work long term. I'd hate to use the stock halogens with LED's in my DRL's and HID fogs. If this will light up the street plenty without popping up the headlights I am going to purchase the HID fog kit right now! I can't decide on 5k or 6k. What do you guys recommend?

Is it as easy to install as most say? I am a noob to electrical/lighting/wiring. Will I be able to complete this with ease?

 

PM replied...

 

I'm not sure lemons... check all your connections, make sure everything is clean?

 

Double check it all.. I'm stumped. I know some people need a relay? What does that fix exactly?
It is a major pain having to turn them on 2-3 times.. And if I'm not paying attention I end up driving with one headlight and I DESPISE having a light out.

 

The relay makes sure you get full power straight from the battery to turn on the lights. Do a simple test, check the voltage at the battery, then check the voltage at the light terminals. I know I saw 12.2v at the battery and 11.7 volts at the lights. That's enough of a drop to cause issue with an electronic ballast not to ignite the lights. They pull almost double the amps at startup as compaired to normal operation.

 

might be the ballast. i had the right side not turn on until the temperature was warm enough. it was at least freezing in the morning and when the engine bay warmed the ballast the light would come on after i turned them off and back on. the temperature has been fairly warm in the mornings and have had no problems. hope this helps

 

Thanks for the info guys, going to look into it some more tomorrow.

 

Anybody else have problems with their fog housings melting? I am ready to buy the 35W HID Fog's, but I'm worried about the housings melting. Have yours gotten progressively worse 98 WS6?