My engine color theme.. Ideas
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My engine color theme.. Ideas Well since i saw Brian's (98 WS6) engine bay i think i have finally decided what colors i am going to paint my valve covers, coil packs, coil brackets and maybe my intake.
I will paint everything using adhesion promoter primer, filler primer, engine enamel paint and engine enamel clear
Below is how my engine bay looks as of right now. I will not be doing the work not until it warms up, plus my car is still in storage...
Valve Covers - Gun metal.. almost like a pewter, dark shadow grey
Coil Packs - Red
Coil Brackets - Black
Intake - ???????
I might get my TB PC, but nothing will be done to the MAF as i am going to an 85mm MAF in the spring, also i will be gettign rid of my MTI clear lid and going with a FT 85mm Lid too
I will paint everything using adhesion promoter primer, filler primer, engine enamel paint and engine enamel clear
Below is how my engine bay looks as of right now. I will not be doing the work not until it warms up, plus my car is still in storage...
Valve Covers - Gun metal.. almost like a pewter, dark shadow grey
Coil Packs - Red
Coil Brackets - Black
Intake - ???????
I might get my TB PC, but nothing will be done to the MAF as i am going to an 85mm MAF in the spring, also i will be gettign rid of my MTI clear lid and going with a FT 85mm Lid too
Last edited by TORCHD 02 TA; Mar 13, 2009 at 02:22 PM.
I would say paint it gunmetal to match the VC. Red would be just too much. And black....well its already black.
You should also polish your FR (if its stock...I cant see pics here at work). Thats free it just takes a while, but looks REAL good once its done.
You should also polish your FR (if its stock...I cant see pics here at work). Thats free it just takes a while, but looks REAL good once its done.
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Also what is FR
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What your looking at is my catch can. it is an RPM Speed one, same as Mike Norris
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I was thinking of doing the intake gun metal... but my car is a red/black theme. i was doing the valve covers gun metal b/c it would be a subtile color there. But hey i still like the intake idea. i have never taken it off, so i would have to read a how to, plus i do not want to break my OPSU.. What does the special socket look like to get the OPSU off?
Also what is FR
Also what is FR
Taking the intake off isnt hard at all...its a lot more intimidating than anything. I think the people that have broken their OPSUs are the ones that didnt know it was there and were not careful about it. I was super cautious about it and almost thing it wouldnt be EASY to do unless you just tried to jerk it out. There is a line that goes into the MAP sensor on the back of the intake that wraps around it...I think people pull the intake and that line snaps the OPSU off...thats all I can figure. So undo that line before trying to pull it out and there shouldnt be an issue. I certainly wouldnt try to take the OPSU off first...that would be an incredible PIA to do with the intake in I would think.
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FR = FUEL RAIL
Taking the intake off isnt hard at all...its a lot more intimidating than anything. I think the people that have broken their OPSUs are the ones that didnt know it was there and were not careful about it. I was super cautious about it and almost thing it wouldnt be EASY to do unless you just tried to jerk it out. There is a line that goes into the MAP sensor on the back of the intake that wraps around it...I think people pull the intake and that line snaps the OPSU off...thats all I can figure. So undo that line before trying to pull it out and there shouldnt be an issue. I certainly wouldnt try to take the OPSU off first...that would be an incredible PIA to do with the intake in I would think.
Taking the intake off isnt hard at all...its a lot more intimidating than anything. I think the people that have broken their OPSUs are the ones that didnt know it was there and were not careful about it. I was super cautious about it and almost thing it wouldnt be EASY to do unless you just tried to jerk it out. There is a line that goes into the MAP sensor on the back of the intake that wraps around it...I think people pull the intake and that line snaps the OPSU off...thats all I can figure. So undo that line before trying to pull it out and there shouldnt be an issue. I certainly wouldnt try to take the OPSU off first...that would be an incredible PIA to do with the intake in I would think.
And i am sure i can pull my intake off no problems, like i said it is prolly more intimidating than it looks
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Great thanks for the offer. I may tak you up on it. I was looking at your album today... wow you MAF and TB look great. Can not wait to see you engine bay all put back together. I was thinking of pulling out the car on sunday and ripping it apart... what do you think?
Great thanks for the offer. I may tak you up on it. I was looking at your album today... wow you MAF and TB look great. Can not wait to see you engine bay all put back together. I was thinking of pulling out the car on sunday and ripping it apart... what do you think?
Let me check with the Mrs. to make sure Sunday is clear....
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Ok today i went to AutoZone and got the following:
1 - Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter
1 - Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Clear
1 - Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Cast Iron (it is like a pewter, gun metal) - Intake and Valve Covers
1 - Dupli-Color Filler Primer
Now i could not find Dupli-Color Engine Enamel GM Red (coil packs) so i am going to use my caliper paint for that. Will that be ok?
And i am using the Dupli-Color Caliper black paint (brackets)
1 - Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter
1 - Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Clear
1 - Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Cast Iron (it is like a pewter, gun metal) - Intake and Valve Covers
1 - Dupli-Color Filler Primer
Now i could not find Dupli-Color Engine Enamel GM Red (coil packs) so i am going to use my caliper paint for that. Will that be ok?
And i am using the Dupli-Color Caliper black paint (brackets)
Jonas the coating on the fuel rails is just an e-coat, chemicals won't touch it but it sands off easy. easiest/fastest method due to all the little nooks and crannies would be greaseless compound on a buff mounted on a drill or bench grinder. 320 grit greasless would be all you'd need an you don't want to rough up the metal anymore than necessary to make it easier to polish up. also they are not stainless or aluminum they will corrode if you don't either stay on top of them or clear them in some fashion. the greasless also leaves a nice finish, does not scratch it up much, be pretty easy to polish it out on buffs and compounds at that point, maybe some wet sanding first depending on what it looks like after taking the e-coat off with the greasless.
here is 320 grit greasless
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...iProductID=982
if you don't have a bench grinder, then use this arbor adapter and you can use any old firm/medium 4" buff from Home depot, lowes, etc on your drill. i have one, comes in handy at times.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
here is 320 grit greasless
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...iProductID=982
if you don't have a bench grinder, then use this arbor adapter and you can use any old firm/medium 4" buff from Home depot, lowes, etc on your drill. i have one, comes in handy at times.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT