Yes, the hub adapter will work with all 4th gen F-bodies. In fact, hub adapters like the Momo 2401 are used for multiple GM vehicles.

 

^^ I was thinking the same thing, but wasn't sure. Thanks again man!!!

 

Anymore steering wheel pics....I'm doin this soon. How much lighter is the aftermarket steering wheel?

 

i have an image of the resistor bypass as well as the resistor values. you can use a single 1.6ohm resistor, if you can find one. or use two 3.3ohm resistors in parallel. you can also do as many as needed in series (daisy chain) if you want. Either way, the system needs the 1.6ohm resistance to fool the computer into thinking the bag is present. By the way, I got this ALL from this forum

 

I used a single 2.2ohm resistor. I read that the airbag system looks for between 2 to 6 ohms of resistance. Anything in that range should work.

To install the resistor, I bent the metal ends into loops, and then just plugged the resistor into the airbag connector under the dash. No soldering needed.

 

My stock wheel and airbag weighed a little more than 11 lbs. My aftermarket wheel (with the new hub and hardware) weighed a little over 6 lbs., so there's a 5 lb. difference. Every little bit counts.

 

A unique look and -5 lbs to boot is great!

 

I thought the oe wheel would weigh more by itself. I was thinking about this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOMO-...mZ390286134395

 

That wheel looks pretty good.

Most of the weight of the factory wheel comes from the airbag.

 

I have a MOMO Competition wheel, that looks very similar to that, only mine has a black center. Anyway, I've yet to install it, but it looks and feels great in person. Very high quality wheel IMHO.

 

So the resistor is only needed to trick the computer to not light up a dash warning correct? Otherwise you don't need it? And it Is just a bulb to pull if it does correct?

 

Went ahead and raced the rain doing mine today.....only one **** up! The damn nut never tightened up when installing the adapter and it cracked the plastic seat or whatever it is and was too hard to turn so removed it and found some white ribbon looking **** exposed. Anyone know what that is and if i fucked something up bad??

Otherwise i reinstalled everything careful not to tighten down the adapter too far and all seems well now. Will text drive it next week as i don't want to get caught driving in the rain.

Edit......Ok so i found out it's just part of the airbag deal so i took the wheel back off and removed it and it's all good now!!

Column is locked so that's why it's slightly off center at the moment. It sits straight and hopefully drives just as straight! LOL

 

To the best of my knowledge, the light is just to show a need to service. pulling the bag without jumping the harness disables the SRS system completely I think. Im looking for the schematic now to verify that.

 

LMK if it's just a simple bulb i can unplug if you can please. I have 2 others that need pulling for traction control and abs!

 

you can pull your TC and ABS bulbs no problem since you have the 9"... you can just yank the bulb for the airbags if you dont care if the pass side works.. Im pretty positive SRS system is disabled once the clock spring is disconnected.. thats also the case when the bags go off and people dont replace the "yellow doughnut".

so... pull the bulb if you dont care, put in resistors if you do.

 

Gonna pull em then! Thanks a bunch!!

 

If there is no resistor in the yellow airbag connector, the airbag system will be disabled and the "Airbag" light will stay on. If you put the resistor in, the passenger side airbag will still work (since the system is tricked into thinking the driver's side airbag is still there).

I'd just put the resistor in, it takes a lot less work to do than pulling out the gauge cluster.

 

That would be fine if i didn't have 2 other bulbs in need of removing. But i do and need to pull the dash itself to get the pass side airbag out as well and any other misc weight i can find to get out back there at the same time.

 

I have a 93, there is only 1 wire coming out the hole.. I guess I have to just ground the after market

 

It sounds like your car only has one horn/horn button. I'm not familiar with early 4th gens. My car had two horn buttons, and one wire running to each button (a red and a yellow wire). When I installed the aftermarket wheel, it only had one horn button, so I connected both wires to the single horn button. You just need to connect your red wire to the aftermarket horn button.