more interior wrapping talk....
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
more interior wrapping talk.... Lets talk adhesives everyone.
I have seen people use the 3M 77 spray and the glue that comes with the Specialized Stainless kit. Not sure what everyone else is using.
Whats holding up best? Who has used the glus from SS thru a whole summer? Hows it holding up?
I discovered the 3M Super Trim Adhesive today while looking around. Im not against using the glue from SS but I'd like some that sets-up a little faster & doesnt require rolling if possible. The Super Trim Adhesive is designed for high heat applications. Says it can even be used to glue underhood insulation in place. So this makes me believe it will definetly hold up to interior temps during the summer with the windows rolled up.
Anyone else have any other experiences on interior adhesives? I know I'm not alone in my curiousity, LOL.
I have seen people use the 3M 77 spray and the glue that comes with the Specialized Stainless kit. Not sure what everyone else is using.
Whats holding up best? Who has used the glus from SS thru a whole summer? Hows it holding up?
I discovered the 3M Super Trim Adhesive today while looking around. Im not against using the glue from SS but I'd like some that sets-up a little faster & doesnt require rolling if possible. The Super Trim Adhesive is designed for high heat applications. Says it can even be used to glue underhood insulation in place. So this makes me believe it will definetly hold up to interior temps during the summer with the windows rolled up.
Anyone else have any other experiences on interior adhesives? I know I'm not alone in my curiousity, LOL.
Have you checked out American Upholstery? Every time I've been in there they have been very helpful and I've heard them give out some good advice for whatever that particular customer was working on. They could probably give you some good advice and sell you whatever you need. I think they're pretty close to where you work too.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Have you checked out American Upholstery? Every time I've been in there they have been very helpful and I've heard them give out some good advice for whatever that particular customer was working on. They could probably give you some good advice and sell you whatever you need. I think they're pretty close to where you work too.
See, I have heard of people having issues with the Super 77 spray from 3M comming loose once summer got around & heat made it into the 90's for several conssitant days.
77 won't even come close to cutting it...depending on the part. Doors will hold for a while, maybe for a long while. For larger pieces, like the back and the dash, there is no way that 77 will cut it. I am using staples as much as possible to hold parts in place. Stapled through from the inside part to the back. Wrap and punch through the staple. Fold the staples down and you aren't depending on the adhesive in the extreme that you were. I am running ideas about the dash right now. Strictly adhesive, I don't think it would hold up to summer for a month. Maybe not a week.
BTW, I am using this for the bulk of my job, but that is staple assisted.
BTW, I am using this for the bulk of my job, but that is staple assisted.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
^^Thats the trim adhesive I found today & after lookin on 3M's site its supposed to hold up to high temps.
Hows it working for you & can you post pics of your progress, I'm having a hard time understanding how your using staples without them being visible.
I'll be wrapping door panels, sail panels & trunk/hatch panels.
Hows it working for you & can you post pics of your progress, I'm having a hard time understanding how your using staples without them being visible.
I'll be wrapping door panels, sail panels & trunk/hatch panels.
Gimmie a couple days and I'll post pics. My last final is Thursday and I need some damned sleep!
If it helps, I'll try explaining it better:
Before you even pick up the material, staple into the side that WILL show through to the reverse/back side. This will leave the flat part of the staple on the side to be covered and two prongs exposed to the reverse/back side. Set up a line of staples a couple inches in from the edge. Now you have several prongs facing the reverse/back side, but the side that will be covered has the flat part of the staple on it, but not to worry, that part is about to get covered. Lay the covering and with the excess material on the back, pull a little tight and poke the prongs of the staples through. Fold prongs down and you're done. You will need at least an electric staple gun to get through the plastics.
I hope that makes any sense. I am on two hours of sleep.
*Edit*
I took some sample pics. Unfortunately with an iPhone and a piece of cardboard so you'll have to click on each to zoom in:
If it helps, I'll try explaining it better:
Before you even pick up the material, staple into the side that WILL show through to the reverse/back side. This will leave the flat part of the staple on the side to be covered and two prongs exposed to the reverse/back side. Set up a line of staples a couple inches in from the edge. Now you have several prongs facing the reverse/back side, but the side that will be covered has the flat part of the staple on it, but not to worry, that part is about to get covered. Lay the covering and with the excess material on the back, pull a little tight and poke the prongs of the staples through. Fold prongs down and you're done. You will need at least an electric staple gun to get through the plastics.
I hope that makes any sense. I am on two hours of sleep.
*Edit*
I took some sample pics. Unfortunately with an iPhone and a piece of cardboard so you'll have to click on each to zoom in:
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I used DAP wilwood on my challenger panels. So far as long as there are good couple coats it's held up fine. I also used it for the hydroturf padding on my superjet jetski and has held up for years of water, abuse, and summer heat. I keep them outside year round unde a tarp so I'm sure it gets hot under there. If you go the DAP route it is roll/brush on but make sure it's in the red can. I have also tried the 3M 90 spray that I got from OSH and it has also held up pretty good for a month now.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Sweden
I have found the 3M fastbond 30 as the best glue for wrapping. Applying on both surfaces gives a sticky gum like surfaces.
This glue workd between -40 - +110 degree celsius.
or
aprx -22 to 230 degree Fahrenheit.
I have tried different sprays like 3M 77 and 90- but spray is not working well in this application.
This is how it looks when appl. Then you using heat and work the vinyl out with your hands
This glue workd between -40 - +110 degree celsius.
or
aprx -22 to 230 degree Fahrenheit.
I have tried different sprays like 3M 77 and 90- but spray is not working well in this application.
This is how it looks when appl. Then you using heat and work the vinyl out with your hands
On the subject of glue...what are you guys using to clean/dress these wrapped pieces? I'd hate to get everything done but then when I clean it with the wrong product and it causes it to unstick.
Hey transsam that is pretty damn smart! What about like the stereo vents or other parts though that you couldnt staple.. :/
Oh an BIGMIKE you look like you have some pretty dark tint on your car, i know that after i put my tint on and use a windshield reflector it doesn't seem to get very hot at all when its parked outside.
Oh an BIGMIKE you look like you have some pretty dark tint on your car, i know that after i put my tint on and use a windshield reflector it doesn't seem to get very hot at all when its parked outside.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Gimmie a couple days and I'll post pics. My last final is Thursday and I need some damned sleep!
If it helps, I'll try explaining it better:
Before you even pick up the material, staple into the side that WILL show through to the reverse/back side. This will leave the flat part of the staple on the side to be covered and two prongs exposed to the reverse/back side. Set up a line of staples a couple inches in from the edge. Now you have several prongs facing the reverse/back side, but the side that will be covered has the flat part of the staple on it, but not to worry, that part is about to get covered. Lay the covering and with the excess material on the back, pull a little tight and poke the prongs of the staples through. Fold prongs down and you're done. You will need at least an electric staple gun to get through the plastics.
I hope that makes any sense. I am on two hours of sleep.
*Edit*
I took some sample pics. Unfortunately with an iPhone and a piece of cardboard so you'll have to click on each to zoom in:
Attachment 230463
Attachment 230464
Attachment 230465
Attachment 230466
Attachment 230467
If it helps, I'll try explaining it better:
Before you even pick up the material, staple into the side that WILL show through to the reverse/back side. This will leave the flat part of the staple on the side to be covered and two prongs exposed to the reverse/back side. Set up a line of staples a couple inches in from the edge. Now you have several prongs facing the reverse/back side, but the side that will be covered has the flat part of the staple on it, but not to worry, that part is about to get covered. Lay the covering and with the excess material on the back, pull a little tight and poke the prongs of the staples through. Fold prongs down and you're done. You will need at least an electric staple gun to get through the plastics.
I hope that makes any sense. I am on two hours of sleep.
*Edit*
I took some sample pics. Unfortunately with an iPhone and a piece of cardboard so you'll have to click on each to zoom in:
Attachment 230463
Attachment 230464
Attachment 230465
Attachment 230466
Attachment 230467
I gotcha now, so this would only be effective around the outter edges then. I'm mainly worried about it tryin to come loose from some of the curves/dips in the interior sail panels, trunk panels & hatch plastics.
All my "hard" plastics like the window swtiches, map pockets & stuff will be goin into Emblempros to be hydrodipped.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Hey transsam that is pretty damn smart! What about like the stereo vents or other parts though that you couldnt staple.. :/
Oh an BIGMIKE you look like you have some pretty dark tint on your car, i know that after i put my tint on and use a windshield reflector it doesn't seem to get very hot at all when its parked outside.
Oh an BIGMIKE you look like you have some pretty dark tint on your car, i know that after i put my tint on and use a windshield reflector it doesn't seem to get very hot at all when its parked outside.
Anyone know where to buy one that actually fits our damn windshields?
I gotcha now, so this would only be effective around the outter edges then. I'm mainly worried about it tryin to come loose from some of the curves/dips in the interior sail panels, trunk panels & hatch plastics.
All my "hard" plastics like the window swtiches, map pockets & stuff will be goin into Emblempros to be hydrodipped.
All my "hard" plastics like the window swtiches, map pockets & stuff will be goin into Emblempros to be hydrodipped.
Last edited by transsam; May 5, 2010 at 10:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
LOL, yea I didnt exactly divulge the entire price to my wife for all the hydro-dipping stuff. She already thinks I put too much money into the car, but I bought her a new Trailblazer in January to help keep her satasified so I could play with my car, LOL.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Well, I called the little local shop up the street from my work & they advised me to use a product called "Fast Tack 92". They said thats what the upholstery shops will use for custom wrapped panels & headliners. Guarenteed not to de-laminate or come loose even if temps inside the car exceed 120*F and its only $9.45 a can
http://www.spraywayinc.com/products....from=furniture
http://www.spraywayinc.com/products....from=furniture
Last edited by BIG_MIKE2005; May 5, 2010 at 03:39 PM.
Yeah, its mostly so that I can pull the headliner extra-tight for a good smooth fit (ABS headliner) and to get a good tight fit on the lower half of he center console. It will work for a couple other things, but for interior sides, it won't really do much. And for my impending dash project...I haven't even begun to work on ideas for that. For now, it looks like the answer is swallow the cost and have a shop wrap that with seams. That'll cost pretty big - if I wind up into this interior project more than my engine, I'm going to be pissed and my wife can never figure that out or I am DEAD!
Well, I called the little local shop up the street from my work & they advised me to use a product called "Fast Tack 92". They said thats what the upholstery shops will use for custom wrapped panels & headliners. Guarenteed not to de-laminate or come loose even if temps inside the car exceed 120*F and its only $9.45 a can
http://www.spraywayinc.com/products....from=furniture
http://www.spraywayinc.com/products....from=furniture
(old spice)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Honestly I caould tell ya. I just called a automotive upholstery speciality shop here in town, told her my concerns & project, she got with the installer there & he told me to use this stuff. Said they also supply alot of the shops here in town & this is what all the professional installers use. Said they have never heard a single complaint of it delaminating.
I'm gonna give it a try, it's not as messy, sets up faster & the people who suggested it do automotive upholstery for a living.
I'm gonna give it a try, it's not as messy, sets up faster & the people who suggested it do automotive upholstery for a living.
For applications when spray-adhesive is needed and the area will be exposed to heat:
Performance Hi-Temp Trim Spray Adhesive
http://www.yourautotrim.com/perhittrimad.html
3M super 77 only really works well for carpet installation and nothing else
Otherwise DAP contact cement in the RED can works well for other parts.
Performance Hi-Temp Trim Spray Adhesive
http://www.yourautotrim.com/perhittrimad.html
3M super 77 only really works well for carpet installation and nothing else
Otherwise DAP contact cement in the RED can works well for other parts.
Honestly I caould tell ya. I just called a automotive upholstery speciality shop here in town, told her my concerns & project, she got with the installer there & he told me to use this stuff. Said they also supply alot of the shops here in town & this is what all the professional installers use. Said they have never heard a single complaint of it delaminating.
I'm gonna give it a try, it's not as messy, sets up faster & the people who suggested it do automotive upholstery for a living.
I'm gonna give it a try, it's not as messy, sets up faster & the people who suggested it do automotive upholstery for a living.
PLEASE PLEASE take lots of pics and document it some, Ive read all I can read about wrapping but I still have a really hard time with it. Ive tried some peices and failed.
Products used, tricks tools and advice thread please lol.
Good luck!