People That have VHTd your tail lights.. Come In here
#1
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This isn't fro my Trans Am, but for my Jeep..
Once you've applied your desired amount of clear coat, how long do you let the clear dry before you wet sand?
Then after you wet sand, what types of polishes are you all using to bring out the gloss??
Thanks
Once you've applied your desired amount of clear coat, how long do you let the clear dry before you wet sand?
Then after you wet sand, what types of polishes are you all using to bring out the gloss??
Thanks
#4
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A buddy of mine runs a paint and body shop and dose these ALL THE TIME!!!!!! IT is simple and is a LOT BETTER looking then any VHT on the market. All he dose is clean them up then runs over them with a tack cloth just making sure they are clean then sprays some adhesion promoter that u can buy at your local parts store then mixes a little black with some clear coat and gives them a light coat. Once it tacks up he adds another coat and so on till the desired darkness is achieved.
#5
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Here is a link to my before and after work, using VHT. And it's just as good as any shop can do, as you can see by the pictures.
You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
#6
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Here is a link to my before and after work, using VHT. And it's just as good as any shop can do, as you can see by the pictures.
You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
#7
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If I'm not mistaken, plastx is a very minor abrasive...so it should work just fine on the finer scratches.
Side note* plastx worked great on the abrasions on my side windows on my tj unlimited, just took a lot of elbow grease.
Side note* plastx worked great on the abrasions on my side windows on my tj unlimited, just took a lot of elbow grease.
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#8
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I suggest letting the clear cure for 2 to 4 weeks. Wet sand with 1000 grit. follow up with a non-orbital buffer with Meguires medium-cut Cleaner on a 3M grey pad followed by Meguires Machine Glaze on the same pad (washed out, of course). Things will look like glass! I cleaned up my factory tails this way but sanded with 800 first to smooth out any scratched and scuffs.
I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
#9
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A buddy of mine runs a paint and body shop and dose these ALL THE TIME!!!!!! IT is simple and is a LOT BETTER looking then any VHT on the market. All he dose is clean them up then runs over them with a tack cloth just making sure they are clean then sprays some adhesion promoter that u can buy at your local parts store then mixes a little black with some clear coat and gives them a light coat. Once it tacks up he adds another coat and so on till the desired darkness is achieved.
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mine turned out decent cause i didnt put as much work into as i should have if i had the results prob would have been that above me ^. in the end i ended up wet sanded all of it off cause i got tired of being harrassed by the police about so i took it off and now im back stock
#12
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mine turned out decent cause i didnt put as much work into as i should have if i had the results prob would have been that above me ^. in the end i ended up wet sanded all of it off cause i got tired of being harrassed by the police about so i took it off and now im back stock
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it was but it took some time to get it back to lookin how it did before i put the VHT on there and i went as far as takin all the letters and numbers that the factory had put on there when they were made so now there completely solid and smooth
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I suggest letting the clear cure for 2 to 4 weeks. Wet sand with 1000 grit. follow up with a non-orbital buffer with Meguires medium-cut Cleaner on a 3M grey pad followed by Meguires Machine Glaze on the same pad (washed out, of course). Things will look like glass! I cleaned up my factory tails this way but sanded with 800 first to smooth out any scratched and scuffs.
I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
Personally, just a little rubbing compound and polish will be all you need. And you can do it all by hand if you don't have a buffer.
To the OP, I have never used PlastiX, so I have no idea if it will take out the scratches. Also, I would not put to thick coats of clear, it could run. I would do light coats on the first two, then a little heavier for the final 2-3 coats.
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I'm curious why you'd use a non-orbital buffer, and a grey pad, which is used for applying glaze and wax...it has very little to no cutting power at all. Also, why would you use a cleaner to work out any scratches caused from the wet sanding? I think you're confused a bit, because a clean has no cutting action either.