Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

People That have VHTd your tail lights.. Come In here

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-13-2010, 08:35 PM
  #1  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (39)
 
TORCHD 02 TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 7,883
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Arrow People That have VHTd your tail lights.. Come In here

This isn't fro my Trans Am, but for my Jeep..

Once you've applied your desired amount of clear coat, how long do you let the clear dry before you wet sand?

Then after you wet sand, what types of polishes are you all using to bring out the gloss??

Thanks
Old 10-13-2010, 09:55 PM
  #2  
TECH Junkie
 
9WhiteCamaro9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rutherford, North Carolina
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

when i did mine i let it sit till it was fully dried then i wet sand then used plasiX from meguires but that what i used idk what others used when they did theres
Old 10-13-2010, 10:04 PM
  #3  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (39)
 
TORCHD 02 TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 7,883
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 9WhiteCamaro9
when i did mine i let it sit till it was fully dried then i wet sand then used plasiX from meguires but that what i used idk what others used when they did theres
Using the plastiX.. how clear did your lenses turn out? BC that what I was thinking of using
Old 10-13-2010, 10:37 PM
  #4  
Launching!
 
dwfronk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bama
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A buddy of mine runs a paint and body shop and dose these ALL THE TIME!!!!!! IT is simple and is a LOT BETTER looking then any VHT on the market. All he dose is clean them up then runs over them with a tack cloth just making sure they are clean then sprays some adhesion promoter that u can buy at your local parts store then mixes a little black with some clear coat and gives them a light coat. Once it tacks up he adds another coat and so on till the desired darkness is achieved.
Old 10-13-2010, 10:58 PM
  #5  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Black_Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Here is a link to my before and after work, using VHT. And it's just as good as any shop can do, as you can see by the pictures.

You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
Old 10-13-2010, 11:06 PM
  #6  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (39)
 
TORCHD 02 TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 7,883
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Black_Z28
Here is a link to my before and after work, using VHT. And it's just as good as any shop can do, as you can see by the pictures.

You can use any real polish, and I say real, because there are waxes out there that call themselves polish. I used a rubbing compound, then worked to a polish. You can wet sand about 48 hours after painting, but I waited almost 6 months, because I work 6 months, and I'm off 6 months. So, I did it when I was back home.
Very nice.. I am goign to put about 2 thick layers of clear on, let it dry then wet sand... 1500 then to 2000.... Would plastiX take out the scratches from the sand paper?
Old 10-13-2010, 11:39 PM
  #7  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
 
GSus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Central Texas Baby!
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If I'm not mistaken, plastx is a very minor abrasive...so it should work just fine on the finer scratches.

Side note* plastx worked great on the abrasions on my side windows on my tj unlimited, just took a lot of elbow grease.
Old 10-14-2010, 12:08 AM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
Swiat34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jackson, TN
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I suggest letting the clear cure for 2 to 4 weeks. Wet sand with 1000 grit. follow up with a non-orbital buffer with Meguires medium-cut Cleaner on a 3M grey pad followed by Meguires Machine Glaze on the same pad (washed out, of course). Things will look like glass! I cleaned up my factory tails this way but sanded with 800 first to smooth out any scratched and scuffs.

I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
Old 10-14-2010, 12:09 AM
  #9  
TECH Regular
 
Jeep_junkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by dwfronk
A buddy of mine runs a paint and body shop and dose these ALL THE TIME!!!!!! IT is simple and is a LOT BETTER looking then any VHT on the market. All he dose is clean them up then runs over them with a tack cloth just making sure they are clean then sprays some adhesion promoter that u can buy at your local parts store then mixes a little black with some clear coat and gives them a light coat. Once it tacks up he adds another coat and so on till the desired darkness is achieved.
That's what my old roommate does too. Gives the lenses a nice smoked look and no sanding or polishing is required.
Old 10-14-2010, 01:15 AM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
StrobinSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I waited about a week after clearing to wetsand them, then used Poor Boys SSR1 to bring it to a gloss

Old 10-14-2010, 03:51 AM
  #11  
TECH Junkie
 
9WhiteCamaro9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rutherford, North Carolina
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

mine turned out decent cause i didnt put as much work into as i should have if i had the results prob would have been that above me ^. in the end i ended up wet sanded all of it off cause i got tired of being harrassed by the police about so i took it off and now im back stock
Old 10-14-2010, 04:01 AM
  #12  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (39)
 
TORCHD 02 TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 7,883
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 9WhiteCamaro9
mine turned out decent cause i didnt put as much work into as i should have if i had the results prob would have been that above me ^. in the end i ended up wet sanded all of it off cause i got tired of being harrassed by the police about so i took it off and now im back stock
Was it easy to wet sand it all off?
Old 10-14-2010, 04:47 AM
  #13  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (39)
 
TORCHD 02 TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 7,883
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Thanks for all the good advice guys.. I need to now clear my tail lights, let them sit for 24 hrs then wet sand them then polsih them
Old 10-14-2010, 07:24 AM
  #14  
TECH Junkie
 
9WhiteCamaro9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rutherford, North Carolina
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

it was but it took some time to get it back to lookin how it did before i put the VHT on there and i went as far as takin all the letters and numbers that the factory had put on there when they were made so now there completely solid and smooth
Old 10-14-2010, 07:58 PM
  #15  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Black_Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Swiat34
I suggest letting the clear cure for 2 to 4 weeks. Wet sand with 1000 grit. follow up with a non-orbital buffer with Meguires medium-cut Cleaner on a 3M grey pad followed by Meguires Machine Glaze on the same pad (washed out, of course). Things will look like glass! I cleaned up my factory tails this way but sanded with 800 first to smooth out any scratched and scuffs.

I also agree that the black in the clearcoat is best. I've heard some bad about VHT (by people who DON'T clear over it).
I'm curious why you'd use a non-orbital buffer, and a grey pad, which is used for applying glaze and wax...it has very little to no cutting power at all. Also, why would you use a cleaner to work out any scratches caused from the wet sanding? I think you're confused a bit, because a clean has no cutting action either.

Personally, just a little rubbing compound and polish will be all you need. And you can do it all by hand if you don't have a buffer.

To the OP, I have never used PlastiX, so I have no idea if it will take out the scratches. Also, I would not put to thick coats of clear, it could run. I would do light coats on the first two, then a little heavier for the final 2-3 coats.
Old 10-14-2010, 08:58 PM
  #16  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
Swiat34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jackson, TN
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Black_Z28
I'm curious why you'd use a non-orbital buffer, and a grey pad, which is used for applying glaze and wax...it has very little to no cutting power at all. Also, why would you use a cleaner to work out any scratches caused from the wet sanding? I think you're confused a bit, because a clean has no cutting action either.
You can FEEL the grit in Meguires Medium Cut Cleaner and it's rated a 6 out of 10 for grit by Meguirs. It's the Machine Glaze that just feels like wet baby powder, rated 3 out of 10. I don't use the flat grey pad, I use the egg crate grey pad. Looking on the Meguiars site, I see they've changed the names. The Medium Cut Cleaner is now called Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and the Machine Glaze is now called Swirl Free Polish.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:24 AM.